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The Project Gutenberg EBook of Explorations in Australia, by John Forrest
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Title: Explorations in Australia
Author: John Forrest
Release Date: August 26, 2004 [EBook #9958]
Language: English
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*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXPLORATIONS IN AUSTRALIA ***
Produced by Sue Asscher and Col Choat
EXPLORATIONS IN AUSTRALIA:
1.
EXPLORATIONS IN SEARCH OF DR. LEICHARDT
AND PARTY.
2.
FROM PERTH TO ADELAIDE, AROUND THE GREAT
AUSTRALIAN BIGHT.
3.
FROM CHAMPION BAY, ACROSS THE DESERT TO
THE TELEGRAPH AND TO ADELAIDE.
WITH AN APPENDIX ON THE CONDITION OF
WESTERN AUSTRALIA.
BY
JOHN FORREST, F.R.G.S.
ILLUSTRATIONS BY G.F. ANGAS.
London:
SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, LOW, & SEARLE,
CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET.
1875.
LONDON:
GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, PRINTERS,
ST JOHN'S SQUARE.
TO HIS
EXCELLENCY
FREDERICK ALOYSIUS WELD, ESQ., C.M.G.,
GOVERNOR OF TASMANIA,
LATE GOVERNOR AND COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF of
WESTERN AUSTRALIA.
MY
DEAR GOVERNOR WELD,
It
was during your administration of the
Government of Western Australia, and
chiefly owing to your zeal and support,
that most of the work of exploration
described in this volume was undertaken
and carried out. Your encouragement
revived the love of exploration which
had almost died out in our colony before
you arrived.
With
gratitude and pleasure I ask you to
accept the dedication of this volume as
an expression of my appreciation of your
kindness and support.
Yours very faithfully,
JOHN
FORREST.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER 1.
Previous Expeditions into the Interior.
Attempts to Discover a Route between
South and Western Australia.
Eyre's Disastrous Journey.
Leichardt, the Lost Explorer.
The Latest Explorations.
CHAPTER 2.
FIRST EXPEDITION IN SEARCH OF LEICHARDT.
Statements made by the Natives.
An Expedition Prepared.
Leader Appointed.
Official Instructions.
The Journal.
CHAPTER 3.
SECOND EXPEDITION. FROM PERTH TO
ADELAIDE, ROUND THE GREAT BIGHT.
A New
Exploration suggested.
Proposal to reach Adelaide by way of the
South Coast.
The experience derived from Eyre's
Expedition.
Survey of Port Eucla.
Official Instructions.
The Start.
Dempster's Station near Esperance Bay.
The Schooner at Port Eucla.
Journal of the Expedition.
CHAPTER 4.
RECEPTION AT ADELAIDE AND RETURN TO
PERTH.
Departure from Gawler and Arrival at
Adelaide.
Appearance of the Party.
Public Entrance.
Complimentary Banquet.
Grant by the Government of Western
Australia.
CHAPTER 5.
THIRD EXPEDITION. FROM THE WEST COAST TO
THE TELEGRAPH LINE.
Proposal to undertake a New Expedition.
Endeavour to Explore the Watershed of
the Murchison.
Expeditions by South Australian
Explorers.
My Journal.
Fight with the Natives.
Finding traces of Mr. Gosse's Party.
The Telegraph Line reached.
Arrival at Perth Station.
CHAPTER 6.
PUBLIC RECEPTIONS AT ADELAIDE AND PERTH.
Procession and Banquet at Adelaide.
Arrival in Western Australia.
Banquet and Ball at Perth.
Results of Exploration.
APPENDIX.
Description of Plants, etc.
Report on Geological Specimens.
Note by Editor.
Governor Weld's Report (1874) on Western
Australia.
Table of Imports and Exports.
Ditto of Revenue and Expenditure.
Public Debt.
Population.
List of Governors.
MAPS.
1. General Map of Australia, showing the
Three Journeys.
2. From Perth to Longitude 123 degrees
in Search of Leichardt.
3. From Perth to Adelaide, around the
Great Australian Bight.
4. From Champion Bay to Adelaide.
ILLUSTRATIONS.
General Map of Australia, showing the
Three Journeys.
[Click here for higher resolution image]
EXPLORATIONS IN AUSTRALIA.
CHAPTER 1.
Previous Expeditions into the Interior.
Attempts to discover a Route between
South and Western Australia.
Eyre's Disastrous Journey.
Leichardt, the Lost Explorer.
The Latest Explorations.
As
the history of the principal expeditions
into the interior of Australia has been
narrated by several able writers, I do
not propose to repeat what has already
been so well told. But, to make the
narrative of my own journeys more
intelligible, and to explain the motives
for making them, it is necessary that I
should briefly sketch the expeditions
undertaken for the purpose of
ascertaining the nature of the vast
regions intervening between Western and
the other Australian colonies, and
determining the possibility of opening
up direct overland communication.
With
energetic, if at times uncertain, steps
the adventurous colonists have advanced
from the settlements on the eastern and
southern coasts of the vast island into
the interior. Expeditions, led by
intrepid explorers, have forced their
way against all but insurmountable
difficulties into the hitherto unknown
regions which lie to the north and west
of the eastern colonies. Settlements
have been established on the shores of
the Gulf of Carpentaria. Burke and a
small party crossed Australia from south
to north, enduring innumerable
hardships, Burke, with two of his
associates, perishing on the return
journey. About the same time Stuart
crossed farther to the west, reaching
the very centre of Australia, and
telegraphic wires now almost exactly
follow his line of route, affording
communication, by way of Port Darwin,
between Adelaide and the great
telegraphic systems of the world.
ATTEMPTS TO CROSS THE DESERT.
The
telegraph line divides Australia into
two portions, nearly equal in
dimensions, but very different in
character. To the east are the busy and
rapidly advancing settlements, fertile
plains, extensive ranges of grassy
downs, broad rivers, abundant
vegetation; to the west a great lone
land, a wilderness interspersed with
salt marshes and lakes, barren hills,
and spinifex deserts. It is the Sahara
of the south, but a Sahara with few
oases of fertility, beyond which is the
thin fringe of scattered settlements of
the colony of Western Australia. To
cross this desert, to discover routes
connecting the western territory with
South Australia and the line marked by
the telegraph, has been the ambition of
later explorers. Mr. Gregory attempted,
from the north, to ascend the Victoria
River, but only reached the upper edge
of the great desert. Dr. Leichardt, who
had previously travelled from Moreton
Bay, on the eastern coast, to Port
Essington on the northern, attempted to
cross from the eastern to the western
shores, and has not since been heard of.
Mr. Eyre made a journey, memorable for
the misfortunes which attended it, and
the sufferings he endured, from Adelaide
round the head of the great bay, or
Bight of Southern Australia, to Perth,
the capital of Western Australia; and
much more recently Colonel Egerton
Warburton succeeded in crossing from the
telegraphic line to the western coast
across the northern part of the great
wilderness, nearly touching the farthest
point reached by Mr. Gregory.
EYRE'S JOURNEY.
It
was in the year 1840, only four years
after the foundation of South Australia,
that the first great attempt to discover
a route from Adelaide to the settlements
in Western Australia was made. There
then resided in South Australia a man of
great energy and restless activity,
Edward John Eyre, whose name was
afterwards known throughout the world in
connexion with the Jamaica outbreak of
1865, and the measures which, as
Governor, he adopted for repressing it.
It was anticipated that a profitable
trade between the colonies might be
carried on if sheep and other live-stock
could be transferred from one to the
other in a mode less expensive than was
afforded by the sea route between
Adelaide and the Swan River. Eyre did
not believe in the possibility of
establishing a practicable route, but
urged, through the press, the
desirability of exploring the vast
regions to the north, which he
anticipated would afford a good and
profitable field for adventurous
enterprise. He offered to lead an
expedition which should explore the
country around the great salt lake lying
to the north-west of the settled portion
of the colony, and to which the name of
Lake Torrens had been given. Very little
was known of this lake, and absolutely
nothing of the country beyond. The
general supposition, in which Eyre
shared, was that there existed a large
space of barren land, most probably the
bed of a sea which had at one time
divided the continent into several
islands; but it was hoped that no
insuperable difficulties in the way of
crossing it would present themselves,
and beyond might be a fertile and
valuable district, offering an almost
unbounded field for settlement, and with
which permanent communications might
without great difficulty be established.
Some geographers were of opinion that an
inland sea might be in existence, and,
if so, of course water communication
with the northern half of Australia
could be effected.
Mr.
Eyre's proposition found ready
acceptance with the colonists, The
Government granted 100 pounds--a small
sum indeed--but the colony was then
young, and far from being in flourishing
circumstances. Friends lent their
assistance, enthusiasm was aroused, and
in little more than three weeks from the
time when Eyre proposed the expedition,
he started on his journey. Five
Europeans accompanied him, and two
natives, black boys, were attached to
the party, which was provided with
thirteen horses, forty sheep, and
provisions for three months. Lake
Torrens was reached, and then the
difficulties of the expedition began.
Although dignified with the name of
lake, it proved to be an enormous swamp,
without surface water, and the mud
coated with a thin layer of salt. The
party struggled to effect a passage, and
penetrated into the slime for six miles,
until they were in imminent danger of
sinking. The lake, or rather salt swamp,
presented a barrier which Eyre
considered it impossible to overcome.
The party turned in a westerly
direction, and reached the sea at Port
Lincoln. Here a little open boat was
obtained, and Mr. Scott, Eyre's
courageous companion, undertook to
attempt to reach Adelaide and obtain
further supplies. This he successfully
accomplished, returning in the Water
Witch with stores and provisions, two
more men, and some kangaroo dogs. Thus
reinforced, the party reached Fowler's
Bay in the great Bight of South
Australia. The map shows that a journey
of more than 200 miles must have been
made before the point was reached.
Thence they attempted to make their way
round the head of the Bight, but were
twice baffled by want of water. Nothing
daunted, Eyre made a third attempt, and
succeeded in penetrating fifty miles
beyond the head of the Bight. But the
result was achieved only at a cost which
the little party could ill sustain. Four
of the best horses perished, which
deprived Eyre of the means of carrying
provisions, and he had to decide between
abandoning the expedition altogether or
still further reducing the number of his
companions. Mr. Scott and three men
returned to Adelaide, leaving behind a
man named Baxter, who had long been in
Eyre's employ as an overseer or
factotum; the two natives who had first
started with him, and a boy, Wylie, who
had before been in Eyre's service, and
who had been brought back in the cutter.
Six
months after Eyre had started from
Adelaide, he was left with only four
companions to continue the journey. He
had acquired considerable experience of
the privations to be encountered, but
refused to comply with the wishes of
Colonel Gawler, the Governor, to abandon
the expedition as hopeless, and return
to Adelaide. Indeed, with characteristic
inflexibility--almost approaching to
obstinacy--he resolved to attempt the
western route along the shore of the
Great Bight--a journey which, only a few
months before, he had himself described
as impracticable.
The
cutter which had been stationed at
Fowler Bay, to afford assistance if
required, departed on the 31st of
January, 1841, and Eyre and his small
party were left to their fate. He had
been defeated in the attempt to push
forward in a northward direction, and he
resolved not to return without having
accomplished something which would
justify the confidence of the public in
his energy and courageous spirit of
adventure. If he could not reach the
north, he would attempt the western
route, whatever might be the result of
his enterprise. After resting to recruit
the strength of his party, Eyre
resolutely set out, on the 25th of
February, on what proved to be a journey
attended by almost unexampled demands
upon human endurance.
Nine
horses, one pony, six sheep, and a
provision of flour, tea, and sugar for
nine weeks, formed the slender stores of
the little party, which resolutely set
forward to track an unknown path to the
west. Accompanied by one of the blacks,
Eyre went on in advance to find water.
For five days, during which time he
travelled about 140 miles, no water was
obtained, and the distress endured by
men and animals was extreme. It is not
necessary to dwell on every incident of
this terrible journey. Eyre's
descriptions, animated by remembrances
of past sufferings, possess a graphic
vigour which cannot be successfully
emulated. Sometimes it was found
necessary to divide the party, so
wretched was the country, and so
difficult was it to obtain sufficient
water in even the most limited supply
for man and beast. Once Eyre was alone
for six days, with only three quarts of
water, some of which evaporated, and
more was spilt. But his indomitable
determination to accomplish the journey
on which he had resolved never failed.
He knew that at least 600 miles of
desert country lay between him and the
nearest settlement of Western Australia;
but even that prospect, the certain
privations, the probable miserable
death, did not daunt him in the journey.
The horses broke down from thirst and
fatigue; the pony died; the survivors
crawled languidly about, "like dogs,
looking to their masters only for aid."
After a few days, during which no water
had been obtainable, a dew fell, and
Eyre collected a little moisture with a
sponge, the black boys with pieces of
rag. To their inexpressible joy, some
sand-hills were reached, and, after
digging, a supply of water was obtained
for their refreshment, and for six days
the party rested by the spot to recruit
their strength. The overseer and one of
the natives then went back forty-seven
miles to recover the little store of
provisions they had been compelled to
abandon. Two out of the three horses he
took with him broke down, and with great
difficulty he succeeded in rejoining
Eyre. At this time the party were 650
miles from their destination, with only
three weeks' provisions, estimated on
the most reduced scale. Baxter, the
overseer, wished to attempt to return;
but, Eyre being resolute, the overseer
loyally determined to stay with him to
the last. One horse was killed for food;
dysentery broke out; the natives
deserted them, but came back starving
and penitent, and were permitted to
remain with the white men. Then came the
tragedy which makes this narrative so
conspicuously terrible, even in the
annals of Australian exploration. Two of
the black men shot the overseer, Baxter,
as he slept, and then ran away,
perishing, it is supposed, miserably in
the desert. Eyre, when some distance
from the place where poor Baxter rested,
looking after the horses, heard the
report of the gun and hurried back,
arriving just in time to receive the
pathetic look of farewell from the
murdered man, who had served him so long
and so faithfully.
Wylie, the black boy, who had been with
Eyre in Adelaide, now alone remained,
and it is scarcely possible to imagine a
more appalling situation than that in
which Eyre then found himself. The
murderers had carried away nearly the
whole of the scanty stock of provisions,
leaving only forty pounds of flour, a
little tea and sugar, and four gallons
of water. They had also taken the two
available guns, and nearly all the
ammunition. The body of Baxter was
wrapped in a blanket--they could not
even dig a grave in the barren rock.
Left with his sole companion, Eyre sadly
resumed the march, their steps tracked
by the two blacks, who probably
meditated further murders; but, with
only cowardly instincts, they dared not
approach the intrepid man, who at length
outstripped them, and they were never
heard of more. Still no water was found
for 150 miles; then a slight supply, and
the two men struggled on, daily becoming
weaker, living on horse-flesh, an
occasional kangaroo, and the few fish
that were to be caught--for it must be
remembered that at no time were they far
from the coast.
On
the 2nd of June, nearly four months
after they had bidden good-bye to the
cutter at Fowler's Bay, they stood on
the cliffs, looking out over the ocean,
when they saw in the distance two
objects which were soon recognized as
boats, and shortly afterwards, to their
unbounded joy, they discerned the masts
of a vessel on the farther side of a
small rocky island. Animated by a new
life, Eyre pushed on until he reached a
point whence he succeeded in hailing the
ship, and a boat was sent off. The
vessel proved to be a French whaler, the
Mississippi, commanded by an Englishman,
Captain Rossiter. The worn-out
travellers stayed on board for a
fortnight, experiencing the utmost
kindness, and with recruited strength
and food and clothing, they bade a
grateful farewell to the captain and
crew, and resumed their journey.
For
twenty-three days more Eyre and his
attendant Wylie pursued their way. Rain
fell heavily, and the cold was intense;
but at length, on the 27th of July, they
reached Albany, in Western Australia,
and the journey was accomplished.
For
more than twelve months Eyre had been
engaged forcing his way from Adelaide to
the Western colony; and the incidents of
the journey have been dwelt upon because
afterwards I passed over the same
ground, though in the opposite
direction, and the records of Eyre's
expedition were of the greatest service
to me, by at least enabling me to guard
against a repetition of the terrible
sufferings he endured.
EXPLORATIONS BY LEICHARDT.
It
is further necessary to refer to another
of the journeys of exploration which
preceded my own--that of the unfortunate
Leichardt. He endeavoured to cross the
continent from east to west, starting
from Moreton Bay, Queensland, hoping to
reach the Western Australian
settlements. In 1844 Leichardt had
succeeded in crossing the north-western
portion of the continent from Moreton
Bay to Port Essington, and he conceived
the gigantic project of reaching Western
Australia. Towards the end of 1847,
accompanied by eight men, with
provisions estimated at two years'
supply, he started on his journey. He
took with him an enormous number of
animals--180 sheep, 270 goats, 40
bullocks, 15 horses, and 13 mules. They
must have greatly encumbered his march,
and the difficulty of obtaining food
necessarily much impeded his movements.
His original intention was first to
steer north, following for some distance
his previous track, and then, as
opportunity offered, to strike westward
and make clear across the continent.
After disastrous wanderings for seven
months, in the course of which they lost
the whole of their cattle and sheep, the
party returned.
Disappointed, but not discouraged,
Leichardt resolved on another attempt to
achieve the task he had set himself.
With great difficulty he obtained some
funds; organized a small but
ill-provided party, and again started
for the interior. The last ever heard of
him was a letter, dated the 3rd of
April, 1848. He was then in the Fitzroy
Downs; he wrote in good spirits,
hopefully as to his prospects: "Seeing
how much I have been favoured in my
present progress, I am full of hopes
that our Almighty Protector will allow
me to bring my darling scheme to a
successful termination."
THE
FATE OF LEICHARDT.
From
that day the fate of Leichardt and his
companions has been involved in mystery.
He was then on the Cogoon River, in
Eastern Australia, at least 1500 miles
from the nearest station on the western
side of the continent. His last letter
gives no clue to the track he intended
to pursue. If a westerly course had been
struck he would have nearly traversed
the route which subsequently Warburton
travelled; but no trace of him has ever
been discovered. Several expeditions
were undertaken to ascertain his fate;
at various times expectations were
aroused by finding trees marked L; but
Leichardt himself, on previous journeys,
had met with trees so marked, by whom is
unknown. Natives found in the remote
interior were questioned; they told
vague stories of the murder of white
men, but all investigations resulted in
the conclusion that the statements were
as untrustworthy as those generally made
to explorers who question uninformed,
ignorant natives. The white man's
experience is usually that a native only
partially comprehends the question; he
does not understand what is wanted, but
is anxious to please, as he expects
something to eat, and he says what he
thinks is most likely to be
satisfactory.
Leichardt was certainly ill-provided for
an expedition of the magnitude he
contemplated, and it appears to be at
the least as probable that he succumbed
to the hardships he encountered, or was
swept away by a flood, as that he was
murdered by the blacks. Twenty-seven
years have elapsed since he disappeared
in the interior; yet the mystery
attending his fate has not ceased to
excite a desire to know the fate of so
daring an explorer, and ascertain
something definite respecting his
course--a desire which was one of the
principal motives that prompted my first
expedition into the unknown interior
dividing the west from the east.
In
1872, Mr. Giles headed an exploring
party from Melbourne, which succeeded in
making known a vast district hitherto
unexplored; but his progress was
stopped, when he had reached longitude
129 degrees 40 minutes, by a large salt
lake, the limits of which could not be
ascertained. In the following year Mr.
Gosse, at the head of a party equipped
by the South Australian Government,
started from nearly the same point of
the telegraph line, and at the same
period as the Warburton expedition, but
was compelled to return after eight
months' absence, having reached
longitude 126 degrees 59 minutes. Gosse
found the country generally poor and
destitute of water. He was perhaps
unfortunate in experiencing an unusually
dry season; but his deliberate
conclusion was, "I do not think a
practicable route will ever be found
between the lower part of Western
Australia and the telegraph line."
VARIOUS EXPEDITIONS.
At
the instance of Baron Von Mueller, and
assisted by a small subscription from
the South Australian Government, Mr.
Giles made a second attempt to penetrate
westward. He reached the 125th degree of
east longitude, and discovered and
traversed four distinct mountain ranges,
on one of which Mr. Gosse shortly
afterwards found his tracks. One of his
companions, Mr. Gibson, lost his way and
perished in the desert, and therefore
Mr. Giles turned his face eastwards,
and, after an absence of twelve months,
reached Adelaide. He encountered many
perils, having been nine times attacked
by the natives, probably in the attempt
to obtain water; and on one occasion was
severely wounded and nearly captured.
On
the 20th March, 1874, Mr. Ross, with his
son and another European, three Arabs,
fourteen horses, and sixteen camels,
started from the telegraph line, near
the Peake station in South Australia. He
was compelled to return through want of
water, although, soon after starting, he
had greatly reduced the number of his
party by sending back three of his
companions, two of the horses, and
twelve of the camels.
Such, in brief, have been the results of
the efforts made to cross Australia
between the telegraph line and the west
coast, and ascertain the probability of
establishing a practicable route. I have
referred to them to show how persistent
has been the desire to achieve the
exploit, and how little daunted by
repeated failures have been Australian
explorers. I now propose to relate my
own experiences--the results of three
journeys of exploration, conducted by
myself. The first was undertaken in the
hope of discovering some traces of
Leichardt; the second nearly retraced
the route of Eyre; the third was across
the desert from Western Australia to the
telegraph line in South Australia. The
first journey did not result in
obtaining the information sought for;
the second and third journeys were
successfully accomplished.
CHAPTER 2.
FIRST EXPEDITION IN SEARCH OF LEICHARDT.
Statements made by the Natives.
An Expedition prepared.
Leader appointed.
Official Instructions.
The Journal.
Early in 1869, Dr. Von Mueller, of the
Melbourne Botanic Gardens, a botanist of
high attainments, proposed to the
Government of Western Australia that an
expedition should be undertaken from the
colony for the purpose of ascertaining,
if possible, the fate of the lost
explorer, Leichardt. Reports had reached
Perth of natives met with in the eastern
districts, who had stated that, about
twenty years before (a date
corresponding with that of the last
authentic intelligence received from
Leichardt), a party of white men had
been murdered. This tale was repeated,
but perhaps would not have made much
impression if a gentleman, Mr. J.H.
Monger, when on a trip eastward in
search of sheep-runs, had not been told
by his native guide that he had been to
the very spot where the murder was
committed, and had seen the remains of
the white men. His story was very
circumstantial; he described the spot,
which, he said, was near a large lake,
so large that it looked like the sea,
and that the white men were attacked and
killed while making a damper--bread made
of flour mixed with water, and cooked on
hot ashes. So certain was he as to the
exact locality, that he offered to
conduct a party to the place.
This
appeared like a trustworthy confirmation
of the reports which had reached the
colony, and created a great impression,
so that the Government felt it a duty
incumbent on them to make an effort to
ascertain the truth of this statement,
and Dr. Von Mueller's offer to lead an
expedition was accepted.
I
was then, as now, an officer of the
Survey Department, and employed in a
distant part of the colony. I was
ordered to repair to headquarters, to
confer with the authorities on the
subject, and was offered the appointment
of second in command and navigator. This
was a proposition quite in accordance
with my tastes, for I had long felt a
deep interest in the subject of
Australian exploration, and ardently
desired to take my share in the work. I
at once arranged the equipment of the
expedition, but, while so engaged, the
mail from Melbourne brought a letter
from Dr. Von Mueller, to the effect that
his other engagements would not permit
him to take the lead as proposed, and I
was appointed to take his place in the
expedition.
OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.
The
Honourable Captain Roe, R.N., the
Surveyor-General, who had himself been a
great explorer, undertook the
preparation of a set of Instructions for
my guidance; and they so accurately
describe the objects of the journey, and
the best modes of carrying them out,
that I transcribe the official letter:--
Survey Office, Perth,
13th April, 1869.
Sir,
His
Excellency the Governor having been
pleased to appoint you to lead an
expedition into the interior of Western
Australia for the purpose of searching
for the remains of certain white men
reported by the natives to have been
killed by the aborigines some years ago,
many miles beyond the limits of our
settled country, and it being deemed
probable that the white men referred to
formed part of an exploring party under
the command of Dr. Leichardt,
endeavouring to penetrate overland from
Victoria to this colony several years
ago, I have been directed to furnish the
following instructions for your guidance
on this interesting service, and for
enabling you to carry out the wishes of
the Government in connexion therewith.
2.
Your party will consist of six persons
in the whole, well armed, and made up of
Mr. George Monger as second in command,
Mr. Malcolm Hamersley as third in
command, a farrier blacksmith to be
hired at Newcastle, and two well-known
and reliable natives, Tommy Windich and
Jemmy, who have already acquired
considerable experience under former
explorers.
3.
An agreement to serve on the expedition
in the above capacities has been
prepared, and should be signed by each
European member of the party previous to
starting.
4. A
saddle-horse has been provided for each
member of the party, together with ----
pack-horses to transport such portions
of the outfit as cannot be carried by
the former. A three-horsed cart will
also accompany the expedition as far as
may be found practicable through the
unsettled country, and thereby relieve
the pack-horses as much as possible.
5.
All preparations for the journey being
now complete, it is desirable that you
should lose no time in starting, so as
to arrive at the commencement of the
unexplored country by the end of the
present month, or beginning of the
expected winter rains. It has been,
however, already ascertained from native
information that a considerable quantity
of rain has recently fallen over the
regions to be explored, and that no
impediment may be anticipated from a
scarcity of water there.
6.
The route to be followed might
advantageously commence at Newcastle,
where some of your party and several of
your horses are to be picked up, and
thence proceed north-easterly to
Goomaling, and 100 miles further in the
same general direction, passing eastward
to Mounts Chunbaren and Kenneth of Mr.
Austin's, to the eastern farthest of
that explorer, in 119 degrees East and
28 3/4 degrees South. Thence the general
north-easterly route of the expedition
must be governed by the information
afforded by your native guides as to the
locality in which they have reported the
remains of white men are to be found.
7.
On arriving at that spot, the greatest
care is to be taken to bring away all
such remains as may be discovered by a
diligent search of the neighbourhood. By
friendly and judicious treatment of the
local natives, it is also probable that
several articles of European manufacture
which are said to be still in their
possession might be bartered from them,
and serve towards identifying their
former owners. The prospect of obtaining
from the natives, at this remote date,
anything like a journal, note-book, or
map, would indeed be small; but the
greatest interest would be attached to
the smallest scrap of written or printed
paper, however much defaced, if only
covered with legible characters. A more
promising mode by which the former
presence of European explorers on the
spot might be detected is the marks
which are generally made on the trees by
travellers to record the number or
reference to a halting-place, or the
initials of some of the party. Thus the
letter L has in several instances been
found by searching parties to have been
legibly cut on trees in the interior of
the eastern colonies, and in localities
supposed to have been visited by the
eminent explorer alluded to. It is
needless to point out that metal
articles, such as axes, tomahawks, gun
and pistol barrels, iron-work of
pack-saddles, and such like, would be
far more likely to have survived through
the lapse of years than articles of a
more perishable nature.
8.
After exhausting all conceivable means
of obtaining information on the spot,
and from the nature of surrounding
country, an attempt should be made to
follow back on the track of the
unfortunate deceased, which is said to
have been from the eastward and towards
the settled part of this colony. Here a
close and minute scrutiny of the trees
might prove of great value in clearing
up existing doubts, especially at and
about any water-holes and springs near
which explorers would be likely to
bivouac.
9.
After completing an exhaustive research
and inquiry into this interesting and
important part of your duties, the
remainder of the time that may be at
your disposal, with reference to your
remaining stock of provisions, should be
employed in exploring the surrounding
country, in tracing any considerable or
smaller stream it may be your good
fortune to discover, and generally in
rendering the service entrusted to your
guidance as extensively useful and
valuable to this colony as circumstances
may admit.
10.
Towards effecting this object, your
homeward journey should, if possible, be
over country not previously traversed by
the outward route, or by any former
explorers, and should be so regulated as
to expose your party to no unnecessary
risk on account of the falling short of
supplies.
11.
In your intercourse with the aborigines
of the interior, many of whom will have
no previous personal knowledge of the
white man, I need scarcely commend to
you a policy of kindness and forbearance
mixed with watchfulness and firmness, as
their future bearing towards our remote
colonists may be chiefly moulded by
early impressions.
12.
To render the expedition as extensively
useful as possible, I would urge you, in
the interests of science, to make and
preserve such specimens in natural
history as may come within the reach of
yourself and party, especially in the
departments of botany, geology, and
zoology, which may be greatly enriched
by productions of country not yet
traversed.
13.
Direct reference to minor objects, and
to matters of detail, is purposely
omitted, in full reliance on your
judgment and discretion, and on your
personal desire to render the expedition
as productive as possible of benefit to
the colony and to science in general.
14.
In this spirit I may add that the brief
instructions herein given for your
general guidance are by no means
intended to fetter your own judgment in
carrying out the main object of the
expedition in such other and different
manner as may appear to you likely to
lead to beneficial results. In the
belief that such results will be
achieved by the energy and perseverance
of yourself and of those who have so
nobly volunteered to join you in the
enterprise, and with confident wishes
for your success, in which H.E. largely
participates,
I
remain, Sir,
Your obedient Servant,
J.S.
ROE, Surveyor-General.
John
Forrest, Esquire, Leader of Exploring
Expedition to the North-East.
Mr.
George Monger (brother of the gentleman
who gave the information), who
accompanied me as second in command, had
previously been on an expedition to the
eastward, and Jemmy Mungaro was the
black who said he had seen the spot
where the remains of the white men were.
His persistence in the statement
encouraged me to hope that I might be
the first to announce positively the
fate of the lost explorer; but I had
then to learn how little dependence can
be placed on the testimony of Australian
aborigines.
On
the 15th of April, 1869, I began the
journey. I was well supplied with
instruments for making observations, so
as to ascertain our daily position. A
knowledge of at least the leading
principles of the art of navigation is
as necessary to the explorer as to the
mariner on the ocean. Our stock of
provisions consisted of 800 pounds of
flour, 270 pounds of pork, 135 pounds of
sugar, and 17 pounds of tea; and we each
took two suits of clothes.
The
party were all in good spirits. For
myself I was hopeful of success, and my
white companions shared my feelings. The
natives were, as they generally are,
except when food is scarce, or their
anger excited, on the best terms with
everybody and everything, and Jemmy
Mungaro, so far as could be judged from
his demeanour, might have been the most
veracious guide who ever led a party of
white men through difficulties and
dangers on an expedition of discovery.
Day
by day I noted down the incidents of the
journey, and that Journal I now submit
to the reader.
JOURNAL OF PROCEEDINGS OF AN EXPLORING
EXPEDITION IN SEARCH OF THE REMAINS OF
THE LATE DR. LEICHARDT AND PARTY,
UNDERTAKEN BY ORDER OF THE GOVERNMENT OF
WESTERN AUSTRALIA, BY JOHN FORREST,
GOVERNMENT SURVEYOR.
Sir,
In
pursuance of instructions received from
you, the exploring party under my
command consisted of the following
persons, namely, Mr. George Monger, as
second in command; Mr. Malcolm
Hamersley, as third in command;
probation prisoner, David Morgan, as
shoeing smith, and two natives (Tommy
Windich and Jemmy Mungaro). The latter
native gave Mr. J.H. Monger the
information respecting the murder of
white men in the eastward. Reached
Newcastle on the 17th and left on
Monday, 19th, with a three-horse cart
and teamster and thirteen horses, making
a total of sixteen horses. Reached
Mombekine, which is about sixteen miles
East-North-East from Newcastle.
April 20th.
Continued journey to Goomalling, sixteen
miles, which we reached at 1 p.m., and
devoted the remainder of the afternoon
to weighing and packing rations, etc.,
for a final start.
21st.
Leaving Goomalling at 10.30 a.m., we
travelled in a northerly direction for
nine miles, and reached Walyamurra Lake;
thence about East-North-East for seven
miles, we encamped at a well on north
side of Kombekine Lake. The water was
very bad from opossums being drowned in
it, and there was hardly any feed.
22nd.
Hearing from a number of natives that
there was no water in the direction we
intended steering, namely, to Mount
Churchman, we decided on changing our
course and proceed there via Waddowring,
in latitude 31 degrees south and
longitude 118 degrees east. Steering
about South-South-East for eight miles,
through dense scrubby thickets, which we
had great difficulty in getting the cart
through, we struck the road from
Goomalling to Waddowring, which we
followed along about east for eight
miles, and camped at a well called
Naaning, with hardly any feed.
23rd.
Mr. George Roe (who had come from
Northam to bid us farewell) and my
teamster left us this morning to return
to Newcastle. Considerable delay having
occurred in collecting the horses, we
did not start till twelve o'clock, when
we steered East-North-East for eight
miles over scrubby sand-plains, and
camped at a well called Pingeperring,
with very little feed for our horses.
24th.
Started at 8.50 a.m. and steered about
east for seven miles over scrubby,
undulating sand-plains, thence North 50
degrees East magnetic for two miles,
thence North 160 degrees for one mile,
and thence about North 80 degrees East
magnetic for five miles over scrubby
sand-plains. We camped at a spring
called Dwartwollaking at 5 p.m.
Barometer 29.45; thermometer 71 degrees.
25th
(Sunday).
Did not travel to-day. Took observations
for time, and corrected our watches.
Found camp to be in south latitude 31
degrees 10 minutes by meridian altitude
of sun.
26th.
Travelled in about the direction of
North 73 degrees East magnetic for
twenty-eight miles. We reached
Yarraging, the farthest station to the
eastward, belonging to Messrs. Ward and
Adams, where we bivouacked for the
night.
27th.
Bought some rations from Ward and Co.,
making our supply equal to last three
months on the daily allowance of a pound
and a half of flour, half a pound of
pork, a quarter of a pound of sugar, and
half an ounce of tea per man. Being
unable to take the cart any further, and
wishing to have the team horses with me,
I arranged with Ward and Co. to take it
to Newcastle for 2 pounds. Packed up and
left Yarraging with ten pack and six
riding horses, and steering North 320
degrees East magnetic for eight miles we
reached Waddowring springs in south
latitude 31 degrees and longitude 118
degrees East.
28th.
Started this morning with Mr. Monger,
Tommy Windich, and Dunbatch (a native of
this locality) in search of water in
order to shift the party. Travelling
about north for eleven miles we found a
native well, and by digging it out seven
feet we obtained sufficient water for
ourselves and horses. I therefore sent
Mr. Monger back with instructions to
bring the party to this spot, called
Cartubing. I then proceeded in a
northerly direction, and at two miles
passed water in granite rocks at a spot
called Inkanyinning. Shortly afterwards
we passed another native well, called
Yammaling, from which we steered towards
a spot called Beebynyinning; but, night
setting in, our guide lost his way, and
we were obliged to camp for the night in
a thicket without water and very little
feed.
29th.
This morning Dunbatch brought us to
Beebynyinning, where we obtained a
little water by digging. After digging a
well we returned to Cartubing, where we
met the party and bivouacked on a patch
of green feed.
30th.
Shifted the party from Cartubing to
Beebynyinning, watering our horses on
the way at Inkanyinning and Yammaling,
which was fortunate, as there was very
little water at Beebynyinning.
May
1st.
Steering about North-East for eight
miles over grassy country, we reached
and encamped at Danjinning, a small
grassy spot, with native well, by
deepening which about ten feet we
obtained a plentiful supply of water.
Mr. Austin visited Danjinning in 1854,
and we could see the tracks of his
horses distinctly. Barometer 29. Every
appearance of rain, which we are in much
want of.
2nd
(Sunday).
Rested at Danjinning, which I found to
be in south latitude 30 degrees 34
minutes by meridian altitude of the sun.
Read Divine Service. Jemmy shot six
gnows and a wurrong to-day.
3rd.
Steering in a northerly direction for
sixteen miles, we reached Yalburnunging,
a small grassy spot, with water in a
native well, which we deepened four
feet, and procured a plentiful supply.
For the first nine miles our route lay
over scrubby sand-plains, after which we
came into dense thickets and stunted
gums.
4th.
Steering towards Mount Churchman, or
Geelabbing, for about fifteen miles, we
reached a grassy spot called
Billeburring, and found water in a
native well, probably permanent. At
eight miles we passed a water-hole in
some granite rocks, called
Gnaragnunging. Dense acacia and cypress
thickets most of the way.
5th.
Steering in a northerly direction for
about twelve miles, we reached Mount
Churchman, or Geelabbing, an immense
bare granite hill, and camped, with
plenty of feed and water. At five miles
passed a spring called Coolee. Country
very dense and scrubby; no feed in any
of the thickets. From the summit of
Mount Churchman, Ningham of Mr. Monger,
or Mount Singleton of Mr. A.C. Gregory,
bore North 312 degrees 30 minutes East
magnetic. This evening a party of nine
natives (friends of our native Jemmy)
joined us, who state that a long time
ago a party of white men and horses died
at a place called Bouincabbajibimar,
also that a gun and a number of other
articles are there, and volunteer to
accompany us to the spot.
6th.
Left Mount Churchman in company with the
nine natives, and travelled about
North-North-West for ten miles to a
small water-hole called Woodgine, thence
in a northerly direction to a branch of
Lake Moore, which we crossed without
difficulty, and, following along its
north shore for three miles, we
bivouacked at a spring close to the lake
called Cundierring, with splendid feed
around the granite rocks.
7th.
Steering in a northerly direction for
eleven miles, through dense thickets of
acacia and cypress, we reached some
granite rocks with water on them, called
Curroning, and bivouacked. Have fears
that the information received from the
natives relates to nine of Mr. Austin's
horses that died from poison at Poison
Rock. They now state they are only
horses' bones, and not men's, as first
stated.
8th.
Travelling in the direction of North 30
degrees East for about ten miles, we
reached some granite rocks, with a
water-hole in them, called Coorbedar.
Passed over very rough, low, quartz
hills, covered with acacia thickets,
etc. At four miles passed a water-hole
called Yeergolling; at seven miles a
small one called Gnurra; and another at
eight miles called Munnarra.
9th
(Sunday).
Rested our horses at Coorbedar. Found
camp to be in south latitude 29 degrees
24 minutes 43 seconds by meridian
altitudes of the sun and Regulus, and in
longitude 118 degrees 6 minutes East.
From a quartz hill half a mile
South-West from Coorbedar, Mount
Singleton bore North 268 degrees 15
minutes East. The supply of water from
the rock having been used, I went, in
company with Mr. Hamersley, to a spot
one mile and a half South-South-West
from Coorbedar, called Dowgooroo, where
we dug a well and procured a little
water, to which I intend shifting
to-morrow, as I propose staying in this
vicinity for two days, so as to give me
time to visit Warne, the large river
spoken of by Jemmy.
10th.
Started this morning in company with
Tommy Windich and a native boy (one of
the nine who joined us at Mount
Churchman) to examine the locality
called Warne. Steering North 42 degrees
East magnetic for about seven miles, we
came to a grassy flat about half a mile
wide, with a stream-bed trending south
running through it. The natives state it
to be dry in summer, but at present
there is abundance of water, and in wet
seasons the flat must be almost all
under water. After following the flat
about seven miles we returned towards
camp, about five miles, and bivouacked.
11th.
Returned this morning to Dowgooroo and
found all well. Rain, which we were much
in want of, fell lightly most of the
day. Barometer 28.50; thermometer 61
degrees.
12th.
Steered this morning about North 38
degrees East magnetic for eight miles,
and camped by a shallow lake of fresh
water--the bivouac of the 10th. Here we
met a party of twenty-five natives
(friends of my native Jemmy and the nine
who joined us at Mount Churchman) who
had a grand corroboree in honour of the
expedition. They stated that at
Bouincabbajilimar there were the remains
of a number of horses, but no men's
bones or guns, and pointed in the
direction of Poison Rock, where Mr.
Austin lost nine horses. Being now
satisfied that the natives were alluding
to the remains of Mr. Austin's horses, I
resolved to steer to the eastward,
towards a spot called by the native,
Jemmy, Noondie, where he states he heard
the remains of white men were.
13th.
Bidding farewell to all the natives, we
steered in a south-easterly direction
for fifteen miles, and camped in a rough
hollow called Durkying; cypress and
acacia thickets the whole way.
14th.
One of our horses having strayed, we did
not start till 10.40 a.m., when we
steered in about a South-East direction
for eight miles, and camped on an
elevated grassy spot, called Mingan,
with water in the granite rocks,
probably permanent. The thickets were a
little less dense than usual, but
without any grass, except at the spots
mentioned. By meridian altitudes of Mars
and Regulus, we were in south latitude
29 degrees 30 minutes 30 seconds, and in
longitude about 118 degrees 30 minutes
east.
15th.
Steering North-East for four miles, and
North-North-East for seven miles, over
sandy soil, with thickets of acacia and
cypress, we bivouacked on an elevated
grassy spot, called Earroo, with water
in granite rocks.
16th
(Sunday).
Rested at Earroo; horses enjoying good
feed. By meridian altitudes of Regulus
and Mars, camp at Earroo was in south
latitude 29 degrees 23 minutes 3
seconds, and in longitude 118 degrees 35
minutes East; weather very cloudy;
barometer 29.
17th.
Started 7.50 a.m., and steered North 60
degrees East for about five miles;
thence about North 50 degrees East for
eight miles; thence North 85 degrees
East for five miles, to a small grassy
spot called Croobenyer, with water in
granite rocks. Sandy soil, thickets of
cypress, acacia, etc., most of the way.
Found camp to be in south latitude 29
degrees 12 minutes 43 seconds by
meridian altitudes of Regulus and
Aquilae (Altair); barometer 28.70.
18th.
Steering North 70 degrees East for two
miles and a half, we saw a low hill
called Yeeramudder, bearing North 62
degrees 30 minutes East magnetic,
distant about seventeen miles, for which
we steered, and camped to the north of
it, on a fine patch of grass with a
little rain-water on some granite rocks.
At eleven miles crossed a branch of a
dry salt lake, which appears to run far
to the eastward.
19th.
Steering about North 85 degrees East
magnetic for fourteen miles, attempted
to cross the lake we had been leaving a
little to the southward, making for a
spot supposed by us to be the opposite
shore, but on arriving at which was
found to be an island. As we had great
difficulty in reaching it, having to
carry all the loads the last 200 yards,
our horses saving themselves with
difficulty, and, being late, I resolved
to leave the loads and take the horses
to another island, where there was a
little feed, on reaching which we
bivouacked without water, all being very
tired.
20th.
On examining this immense lake I found
that it was impossible to get the horses
and loads across it; I was therefore
compelled to retrace my steps to where
we first entered it, which the horses
did with great difficulty without their
loads. I was very fortunate in finding
water and feed about three miles
North-North-West, to which we took the
horses and bivouacked, leaving on the
island all the loads, which we shall
have to carry at least half way, three
quarters of a mile, the route being too
boggy for the horses.
HEAVY WORK IN THE BOG.
21st.
Went over to the lake in company with
Messrs. Monger, Hamersley, and Tommy
Windich, with four horses. Succeeded in
getting all the loads to the mainland,
carrying them about three quarters of a
mile up to our knees in mud, from which
point the lake became a little firmer,
and the horses carried the loads out. I
cannot speak too highly of the manner in
which my companions assisted me on this
trying occasion. Having been obliged to
work barefooted in the mud, the soles of
Mr. Hamersley's feet were in a very bad
state, and he was hardly able to walk
for a fortnight.
Seeing a native fire several miles to
the southward, I intend sending Tommy
Windich and Jemmy in search of the tribe
to-morrow, in order that I may question
them respecting the reported death of
white men to the eastward.
The
Horses Bogged at Lake Barlee.
22nd.
Went over to the lake with all the
horses, and brought the loads to the
camp. Started Tommy and Jemmy in search
of the natives. After returning to camp,
overhauled all the pack bags, and dried
and re-packed them, ready for a fresh
start on Monday morning. Also washed the
mud off the horses, who appear to be
doing well, and fast recovering from the
effects of the bogging. Tommy and Jemmy
returned this evening, having seen some
natives after dark, but were unable to
get near them.
23rd
(Sunday).
Went with Tommy Windich and Jemmy on
foot to follow the tracks of the natives
seen yesterday. Seeing no chance of
overtaking them, as they appeared to be
making off at a great rate, and were
twelve hours in advance of us, we
returned, after following the tracks for
five miles across the lake. The camp was
reached at 2 p.m., after we had walked
about fifteen miles. This spot, which I
named Retreat Rock, I found to be in
south latitude 29 degrees 3 minutes 51
seconds by meridian altitudes of Regulus
and Mars, and in about longitude 119
degrees 16 minutes east.
24th.
Some of the horses having strayed, we
were not able to start till 10.40 a.m.,
when we steered in about East-North-East
direction for sixteen miles, and camped
on a piece of rising ground, with very
little water. From this bivouac, a very
remarkable peaked hill, called Woolling,
which I named Mount Elain, bore North
162 degrees 15 minutes East magnetic,
distant about twenty miles; and two
conspicuous hills, close together,
called Yeadie and Bulgar, bore North 105
degrees East magnetic. Dense thickets,
acacia, cypress, etc., sandy soil with
spinifex, most of the way.
DISCOVERY OF LAKE BARLEE.
25th.
Steering for Yeadie and Bulgar for five
miles, and came to some granite rocks
with water, where we gave drink to our
thirsty horses. Leaving the party to
follow, I went with Jemmy in advance to
look for water, which we found in a
rough stream-bed, and brought the party
to it. This afternoon went with Jemmy to
the summit of Yeadie, and took a round
of angles. The local attraction was so
great on this hill that the prismatic
compass was useless; luckily I had my
pocket sextant with me, by which I
obtained the included angles. From the
summit of Yeadie the view was very
extensive. The great lake that we had
already followed for forty miles ran as
far as the eye could reach to the east
and south, studded with numerous
islands; low ranges of hills in every
direction. This immense lake I named
Lake Barlee, after the Colonial
Secretary of Western Australia. By
meridian altitudes of Mars and Regulus,
camp was in south latitude, 28 degrees
58 minutes 50 seconds, and in longitude
about 119 degrees 39 minutes East,
Yeadie bearing North 172 degrees East
magnetic, distant about two miles.
26th.
Moving in about a northerly direction
for nine miles, we turned to the
eastward, rounded a branch of Lake
Barlee, towards some loose granite
rocks, where we encamped, but could not
find water. Sent Jemmy over to another
rock one mile southward, where he found
a fine permanent water-hole, to which we
took the horses after dark. Distance
travelled to-day about eighteen miles.
Tommy shot a fine emu, which was a great
treat to us all.
27th.
Shifted the party over to the water
found last night, one mile distant, and
camped. Found camp to be in south
latitude 28 degrees 53 minutes, and in
longitude about 119 degrees 50 minutes
east. Marked a small tree with the
letter F. close to the waterhole.
28th.
Some of the horses having strayed, we
did not start till 9.30 a.m., when I
went in advance of the party, in company
with Jemmy, to look for water. After
following Lake Barlee for nine miles, it
turned to the southward. Then scouring
the country in every direction for water
without success, we reached the tracks
of the party (who had passed on), and,
following them over plains of spinifex
and stunted gums, found them encamped
with plenty of water, which they had
luckily discovered at sundown. Distance
travelled eighteen miles about true
east. By meridian altitude of Bootes
(Arcturus), this bivouac is in south
latitude 28 degrees 53 minutes 34
seconds, and longitude about 120 degrees
9 minutes east.
DISAPPOINTED EXPEDITIONS.
29th.
Started in company with Tommy and Jemmy
to explore the country eastward, leaving
the party to take off the horses' shoes
for their relief. Travelling in an
easterly direction for eight miles over
sandy soil and spinifex, we reached the
summit of a high hill, supposed by Jemmy
to be Noondie, which I named Mount
Alexander, from which we saw another
range about eleven miles distant,
bearing North 82 degrees 15 minutes East
magnetic, to which we proceeded, and
found water in some granite rocks. None
of these hills, however, agreed with the
description given by Jemmy; and the
expectations were at an end that he
would succeed in showing us the spot
where the remains of white men were.
Returning to camp, seven miles,
bivouacked on a grassy flat, without
water or food.
30th. (Sunday).
Started at dawn, with the saddles and
rugs on our backs, in search of the
horses, and, after travelling a mile and
a half on their tracks, found them at a
small water-hole passed by us yesterday.
Saddled up and reached camp at eleven
o'clock, and found all well. Yesterday
morning the dogs caught an emu, off
which we made a first-rate breakfast,
not having had anything to eat since the
previous morning. Barometer 28.44.
A
DIFFICULTY WITH THE NATIVES.
31st.
Started this morning in company with Mr.
Monger and Jemmy in search of natives,
leaving Mr. Hamersley in charge, with
instructions to proceed eastward about
twenty-two miles, to where I found water
on the 29th. After starting the party we
steered in a South-South-East direction
towards a high range of hills, which I
named Mount Bivou, about twelve miles
distant. To the westward of the range we
found a fine water-hole in some granite
rocks, where we rested an hour to allow
the horses to feed. Continuing in about
the same direction for five miles, we
ascended a rough range to have a view of
the country. We descried a large fire to
the westward seven miles, towards which
we proceeded, in the hope of finding
natives. When we were within half a mile
we could hear hallooing and shouting;
and it was very evident there was a
great muster (certainly not less than
100) of natives, corrobberying, making a
dreadful noise, the dogs joining in
chorus. Having stripped Jemmy, I told
him to go and speak to them, which he
started to do in very good spirits. He
soon beckoned us to follow, and asked us
to keep close behind him, as the natives
were what he called like "sheep flock."
He appeared very nervous, trembling from
head to foot. After reassuring him, we
tied up our horses, and advanced through
the thicket towards them. When getting
in sight of them, Jemmy commenced
cooeying, and was answered by the
natives; after which he advanced and
showed himself. As soon as they saw him,
the bloodthirsty villains rushed at him,
and threw three dowaks, which he luckily
dodged; when fortunately one of the
natives recognized him (having seen
Jemmy at Mount Elain when a little boy),
and called to the others not to harm
him. Seeing Jemmy running towards the
horses, Mr. Monger and I thought it was
time to retire, as we saw the mistake we
had made in leaving the horses. The
thickets being dense, we had difficulty
in finding the horses quickly. On
reaching them Mr. Monger found he had
dropped his revolver. Had not Jemmy been
recognized, I feel sure we should have
had bloodshed, and might probably have
lost our lives. Mounting the horses, we
advanced towards the natives, and had a
short talk with one of them who came to
speak to Jemmy. There was a guard of
eight natives, with spears stripped, and
dowaks in readiness, should we prove
hostile. Although I assured them we were
friends, and asked them to put down
their spears, they took no notice of
what was said. One native told us not to
sleep here, but to go away and not
return, or the natives would kill and
eat us, after which he turned away as if
he did not wish to have any more words
with us. It being now dark, we took his
advice, and retreated towards where we
had dinner, five miles off. Camped in a
thicket without water, and tied up our
horses, keeping watch all night.
June
1st.
At daybreak saddled up our tired and
hungry horses, and proceeded to where we
had dinner yesterday. After giving our
horses two hours' grazing and having had
breakfast, started back towards the
natives' camp, as I wished to question
them respecting the reported death of
white men in this neighbourhood. When we
approached the natives' bivouac, we saw
where they had been following up our
tracks in every direction, and Jemmy
found the place where they had picked up
Mr. Monger's revolver. While Jemmy was
away looking for the revolver, Mr.
Monger saw two natives following up our
trail, and within fifty yards of us. We
both wheeled round and had our guns in
readiness, but soon perceived they were
the same as were friendly last night,
and I called Jemmy to speak to them. At
my request they went and brought us Mr.
Monger's revolver, which they stated
they had been warming near the fire!
Fortunately for them, it did not go off.
On being questioned by Jemmy, they
stated that the place Noondie (where
Jemmy stated he heard the remains of the
white men were) was two days' journey
North-West from this spot; that there
were the remains of horses, but not of
men, and they volunteered to show us the
spot. Being now 1 p.m., and having to
meet the party to-night at a place about
twenty-three miles distant, we started
at once, leaving the natives, who did
not wish to move to-day, but who
apparently sincerely promised to come to
our camp to-morrow. Reached camp at the
spot arranged an hour after dark, and
found all well.
BIVOUACKING.
2nd.
Rested our horses at the place, which I
called the Two-spring Bivouac, there
being two small springs here. Re-stuffed
with grass all the pack-saddles, as some
of the horses were getting sore backs.
By meridian altitude of sun found the
camp to be in south latitude 28 degrees
51 minutes 45 seconds, and in longitude
about 120 degrees 30 minutes east. I was
very much annoyed at the natives not
putting in appearance as promised.
3rd.
No sign of the natives this morning. I
decided to steer in the direction
pointed out by them, and travelling
about North 306 degrees East magnetic
for fifteen miles, we found water in
some granite rocks, with very good feed
around, cypress and acacia thickets,
light red loamy soil, destitute of
grass.
4th.
Steering in about West-North-West
direction for sixteen miles, the first
six of which were studded with granite
rocks, good feed around them, after
which through poor sandy country,
covered with spinifex. We bivouacked in
a thicket without water or feed, and
tied up our horses. Saw a natives' fire,
but was unable to get near it. Barometer
28.52; fine.
5th.
After travelling in a northerly
direction for seven miles without
finding water, and without seeing any
hill answering the description given by
Jemmy, I struck about east for sixteen
miles, and camped at a fine spring near
some granite rocks, with splendid feed
around them. This is the first good
spring since leaving the settled
districts. At 8 p.m., barometer 28.44;
thermometer 72 degrees.
6th
(Sunday).
Rested at camp, which I called Depot
Spring, and found to be in south
latitude 28 degrees 36 minutes 34
seconds by meridian altitude of sun.
Barometer at 8 a.m. 28.38; thermometer
57 degrees; at 5 p.m., barometer 28.30;
thermometer 77 degrees.
7th.
Started this morning, in company with
Mr. Hamersley and Jemmy, to explore the
country to the northward, where we had
seen a peaked hill. Went in that
direction about thirty miles, the first
twenty of which were studded with
granite rocks, with fine feed around
them. At twenty-seven miles crossed a
salt marsh, about one mile wide, and,
continuing three miles farther, reached
the peaked hill, which was composed of
granite, capped with immense blocks,
giving it a very remarkable appearance.
Bivouacked on North-West side of hill,
at a small water-hole.
8th.
This morning, after saddling up, we
ascended the conical hill (which I named
Mount Holmes) and took a round of angles
from it, after which we struck North 81
degrees East magnetic to a granite range
about eight miles distant, where we
found two fine water-holes, and rested
an hour. Thence in about a
South-South-East direction for twelve
miles, we bivouacked without water on a
small patch of feed. The day was very
fine, and the rainy appearance cleared
off, much to our grief.
9th.
At daybreak, no sound of horses' bells,
and anticipating they had made off in
search of water, we put our saddles,
guns, and rugs on our backs, and started
on their tracks. After following the
tracks for nine miles we came to a
water-hole and had breakfast; afterwards
we succeeded in overtaking the horses in
a grassy flat, about thirteen miles
South-South-East from our last night's
bivouac. The last few miles our
troublesome load became very awkward and
heavy. One of the horses had broken his
hobbles. Continuing in about the same
course for six miles, we struck about
West-South-West for ten miles, and
reached camp, where we found all well,
at 6 p.m. Barometer 28.64; cloudy.
AN
OLD NATIVE.
10th.
Started again this morning in company
with Mr. Monger and Jemmy, to explore
the country to the eastward, leaving Mr.
Hamersley to shift the party to our
bivouac of the 2nd instant, about
twenty-four miles South-East from here.
After travelling East-North-East for six
miles, we came upon a very old native at
a fire in the thicket. Jemmy could not
understand what he said, but he thought
that he meant that there were a number
of armed natives about. He was very
frightened, howled the whole time we
stayed, and was apparently in his
dotage, hardly able to walk. Continuing
our journey, we camped at a small
water-hole in some granite rocks, with
good feed around them, about sixteen
miles East-North-East from Depot Spring.
11th.
Started at sunrise, and steered about
East-North-East over lightly-grassed
country; and on our way came upon a
middle-aged native with two small
children. We were within twenty yards of
him before he saw us. He appeared very
frightened, and trembled from head to
foot. Jemmy could understand this native
a little, and ascertained from him that
he had never seen or heard anything
about white men or horses being killed
or having died in this vicinity. Did not
know any place named Noondie; but
pointed to water a little way eastward.
Jemmy then asked him all manner of
questions, but to no purpose, as he
stated he knew nothing about the
business. Jemmy asked him if he had ever
heard of any horses being eaten; he
answered No, but that the natives had
just eaten his brother! I have no doubt
parents have great difficulty in saving
their children from these inhuman
wretches. Then the old man tried to cry,
and ended by saying he had two women at
his hut, a little westward. After
travelling ten miles from our last
night's bivouac, and not finding water,
we struck North 204 degrees East
magnetic for about twenty miles, through
scrubby thickets, without feed, and
arrived at the bivouac of the 2nd, where
the party will meet us to-morrow.
Reached the water at the Two Springs
half an hour after dark.
12th.
Explored the country around camp in
search of a better place for feed, but
could not find water. Mr. Hamersley and
party joined us at 4 p.m., all well.
Tommy shot a red kangaroo, which was a
great treat, after living so long on
salt pork. Barometer 28.60; fine; cold
wind from the east all day.
13th
(Sunday).
Rested at camp. Intend taking a trip to
the southward to-morrow. Barometer
28.76.
14th.
Started this morning, in company with
Morgan and Jemmy, to examine the country
to the southward. Travelled in a
south-westerly direction for twenty-five
miles, and camped at the spot where we
had the encounter with the natives on
May 31. We found they had left, and
there was no water on the rocks. Luckily
our horses had water six miles back.
MOUNT IDA.
15th.
Saddled up at daybreak, and steered
about South-East towards a high range of
hills about ten miles distant. I named
it Mount Ida, and from the summit I took
a round of angles with my pocket
sextant. On all the hills in this
neighbourhood the local attraction is so
great that the prismatic compass is
useless. Found a fine spring of water on
south side of Mount Ida, in an almost
inaccessible spot. After giving the
horses two hours' rest we continued our
journey North 154 degrees East magnetic
for eight miles to a granite range,
where, after a diligent search, I found
two water-holes, and bivouacked, with
good feed around the rocks.
16th.
Saddled up at sunrise, and steered to
some trap ranges, North 124 degrees
East, about seven miles distant, from
which I could see an immense lake
running as far as the eye could reach to
the eastward, and westerly and
northerly, most probably joining Lake
Barlee. Not being able to proceed
farther southward, on account of the
lake, I steered in a northerly direction
for twenty miles, but, discovering
neither feed nor water, bivouacked in a
thicket, and tied up our horses.
17th.
At dawn, found that my horse Sugar,
after breaking his bridle, had made off
towards our bivouac of the 15th. Placing
my saddle on Jemmy's horse, we followed
on the track for six miles, when we came
to a few granite rocks, with a little
water on them, from rain that had fallen
during the night. At this place Morgan
was left with the horses and our guns,
while Jemmy and I followed on Sugar's
tracks, taking only a revolver with us.
After travelling on the tracks for two
miles we overtook him, and with a little
trouble managed to catch him. On
reaching the spot where we had left
Morgan, we found him with the three
double-barrelled guns on full cock,
together with his revolver, in
readiness. On being asked what was the
matter, he stated "Nothing," but he was
ready to give the natives what he called
"a warm attachment." After having
breakfast we steered North-North-West
for about twenty miles, and reached camp
at 5 p.m., and found all well. Rained a
little during the day.
EXPLORING EASTWARD.
18th.
Having thus made an exhaustive search in
the neighbourhood where Jemmy expected
to find the remains of the white men, by
travelling over nearly the whole of the
country between latitude 28 degrees and
29 degrees 30 minutes south, and
longitude 120 and 121 degrees east, I
determined to make the most of the
little time at my disposal, and carry
out the instruction that I was to
attempt to proceed as far eastward as
possible. Accordingly, after collecting
the horses, steered about
East-North-East for nine miles, to a low
quartz range, over tolerably grassy
country, not very dense. From this range
I saw some bare granite rocks bearing
about North 120 degrees East magnetic.
For these we steered, and luckily, after
travelling six miles over a plain, which
in severe winters must be nearly all
under water, found a fine pool in a
clay-pan, and bivouacked. There was a
little rain during the night.
19th.
The horses having strayed back on our
tracks, we did not start till 12
o'clock, when the journey was continued
towards the granite range seen
yesterday, about ten miles distant. We
camped on west side of North, with
plenty of water from the recent rain on
the granite rocks, but with very little
feed. At five miles crossed a dry
stream-bed, eighteen yards wide, sandy
bottom; thickets most of the way, but
not very dense.
20th
(Sunday).
Rested at camp. Jemmy shot four rock
kangaroos to-day. Took a round of angles
from a bare granite hill, North 50
degrees East magnetic, about one mile
from camp, which I found to be in south
latitude 28 degrees 57 minutes by
meridian altitudes of Bootes (Arcturus)
and a Pegasi (Markab); and in longitude
about 120 degrees 55 minutes East. Saw a
high hill bearing North 81 degrees 30
minutes East magnetic, about twenty-five
miles distant, which I named Mount
Lenora; and another bearing North 67
degrees East magnetic, about twenty-five
miles distant, which I named Mount
George. Intend proceeding to Mount
Lenora to-morrow. Marked a small tree
(ordnance-tree of Mr. Austin) with the
letter F at our bivouac.
21st.
Steering towards Mount Lenora over some
tolerably grassy country, we reached it
at sundown, and, not finding any water,
camped without it, with very good feed.
In south latitude 28 degrees 53 minutes
by meridian altitudes of Lyrae (Vega)
and Aquilae (Altair), and in longitude
about 121 degrees 20 minutes East.
22nd.
After making every search in the
vicinity of the bivouac for water, and
the country ahead appearing very
unpromising, I decided to return ten
miles on our tracks, where we found a
fine pool of water in a brook, and
camped. Tomorrow I intend taking a
flying trip in search of water.
A
NATIVE UP A TREE.
23rd.
Started this morning, in company with
Tommy Windich, to explore the country to
the eastward for water, etc. After
travelling three miles towards Mount
Lenora, saw a natives' fire bearing
North-East about three miles, to which
we proceeded, and surprised a
middle-aged native. Upon seeing us he
ran off shouting, and decamped with a
number of his companions, who were at a
little distance. The horse I was
riding--Turpin, an old police-horse from
Northam--evidently well understood
running down a native, and between us we
soon overtook our black friend and
brought him to bay. We could not make
him understand anything we said; but,
after looking at us a moment, and seeing
no chance of escape, he dropped his two
dowaks and wooden dish, and climbed up a
small tree about twelve feet high. After
securing the dowaks, I tried every means
to tempt him to come down; fired my
revolver twice, and showed him the
effect it had on the tree. The report
had the effect also of frightening all
the natives that were about, who no
doubt made off at a great rate. I began
to climb up after him, but he pelted me
with sticks, and was more like a wild
beast than a man. After discovering we
did not like to be hit, he became bolder
and threw more sticks at us, and one
hitting Tommy, he was nearly shooting
him, when I called on him to desist. I
then offered him a piece of damper,
showing him it was good by eating some
myself and giving some to Tommy. He
would not look at it, and when I threw
it close to him he dashed it away as if
it was poison. The only way of getting
him down from the tree was force, and,
after considering a moment, I decided to
leave him where he was. We accordingly
laid down his dowaks and dish, and bade
him farewell in as kindly a manner as
possible. Continuing our course, passing
Mount Lenora, we steered North 81
degrees 15 minutes East magnetic to a
table hill, which I ascended and took a
round of angles. This hill I named Mount
Malcolm, after my friend and companion,
Mr. M. Hamersley. Saw a remarkable peak
bearing North 65 degrees East magnetic,
distant about twenty miles, towards
which we proceeded, and at six miles
came upon a small gully, in which we
found a little water, and bivouacked.
24th.
Started early this morning, and steered
East-North-East for six miles to some
low stony ranges, lightly grassed;
thence North 61 degrees 30 minutes East
magnetic to the remarkable peak, which I
named Mount Flora, distant about nine
miles from the stony ranges, ascending
which, I obtained a round of bearings
and angles. Saw a high range bearing
about North 106 degrees 15 minutes East
magnetic, apparently about sixteen miles
distant, towards which we travelled till
after dark, searching for feed and water
on our way without success, and there
bivouacked and tied up our horses.
MOUNT MARGARET.
25th.
Saddled at dawn, and proceeded to the
range, which bore North 93 degrees 30
minutes East magnetic, about five miles
distant, on reaching which I ascended
the highest peak, and named it Mount
Margaret. Took a round of angles and
bearings. From the summit of Mount
Margaret the view was very extensive.
There was a large dry salt lake to the
southward, as far as the eye could
reach, while to the east and north-east
there were low trap ranges, lightly
grassed. A high table hill bore North 73
degrees East magnetic.
Being now about sixty miles from camp,
and not having had any water since
yesterday morning, I decided to return.
Steering about west for eight miles, we
struck a brook trending south-east, in
which we found a small quantity of water
in a clay-pan. After resting an hour, in
order to make a damper and give the
horses a little of the feed, which only
grew sparingly on the banks of the
brook, we continued our journey towards
camp. Passing Mount Flora, we camped
about eight miles farther onwards, near
a small patch of feed, without water,
about a mile north of our outward track.
26th.
Started at dawn, and reached our bivouac
of the 23rd. There obtained just
sufficient water for ourselves and the
horses. Continuing, we found a fine pool
of rain-water in a brook a mile and a
half west of Mount Malcolm, and,
reaching camp an hour after dark, found
all well. On our way Tommy Windich shot
a red kangaroo, which we carried to
camp.
27th
(Sunday).
Rested at camp. Found it to be in south
latitude 28 degrees 55 minutes by
meridian altitudes of sun, Aquilae
(Altair), and Lyra, and in longitude
about 121 degrees 10 minutes East.
Although we had great difficulty in
procuring water in our last trip, I was
reluctant to return without making
another effort, especially as, from the
appearance of the country east of the
farthest point, I had hope of a change,
and therefore concluded to shift the
party to the water found yesterday near
Mount Malcolm, and make another attempt
to proceed farther east.
28th.
Steering about North 81 degrees East
magnetic, over lightly-grassed country,
thinly wooded for sixteen miles, we
camped a mile and a half west of Mount
Malcolm, in south latitude 28 degrees 51
minutes 19 seconds by meridian altitude
of Aquilae (Altair), and in longitude
about 121 degrees 27 minutes East.
29th.
Started this morning, in company with
Tommy Windich, with seven days'
provisions, leaving instructions for Mr.
Monger to shift the party back to our
last camp, where the feed was much
better, in latitude 28 degrees 55
minutes South, and longitude 121 degrees
10 minutes East. Travelled about east
for thirty miles towards Mount Margaret,
our farthest point last trip. We camped
in a thicket, without water, on a small
patch of feed.
30th.
Saddled up at dawn, and proceeded
towards Mount Margaret, obtaining a
little water at the spot where we found
water on our former trip. Continuing, we
came to a fine pool of water in a brook,
and rested an hour, Mount Margaret being
north-east about two miles and a half.
Hardly any feed near the water.
Resuming, we passed Mount Margaret and
started towards the table hill seen
previously, bearing North 73 degrees
East magnetic, apparently about eighteen
miles distant, over a series of dry salt
marshes, with sandy country and spinifex
intervening. After travelling eight
miles, we bivouacked without water on a
small patch of feed. With the pocket
sextant I found this spot to be in south
latitude about 28 degrees 50 minutes,
and longitude about 122 degrees 11
minutes East.
MOUNT WELD.
July
1st.
After journeying towards the table hill
seen yesterday for six miles, crossed a
large brook heading south-west, in which
we found a small pool of rain-water, and
rested an hour to breakfast. Resuming
for about six miles, reached the table
hill, which I ascended and took a round
of angles. I have since named this hill
Mount Weld, being the farthest hill seen
eastward by us. Continuing about North
77 degrees East magnetic for fifteen
miles, through dense thickets--no grass
except spinifex--we bivouacked, without
water or feed, and then tied up our
horses. I found this spot to be in south
latitude 28 degrees 41 minutes by
meridian altitude of Bootes (Arcturus),
and in longitude about 122 degrees 37
minutes East.
2nd.
Started at dawn, and steered about east,
searching on our way for water, which
our horses and ourselves were beginning
to want much. At six miles we found a
small hole in some rocks, apparently
empty, but on sounding with a stick I
found it to contain a little water. The
mouth of the hole being too small to
admit a pannican, and having used my hat
with very little success, I at last
thought of my gum-bucket, with which we
procured about two quarts of something
between mud and water, which, after
straining through my
pocket-handkerchief, we pronounced
first-rate. Continuing for six miles
over clear, open sand-plains, with
spinifex and large white gums--the only
large trees and clear country seen since
leaving the settled districts--we
climbed up a white gum to have a view of
the country eastward. Some rough
sandstone cliffs bore North 127 degrees
East magnetic, about six miles distant.
The country eastward was almost level,
with sandstone cliffs here and there,
apparently thickly wooded with white
gums, and other trees; spinifex
everywhere, but no prospects of water.
More to the north, a narrow line of
samphire flats appeared, with cypress
and stunted gums on its edges--all
barren and desolate--so much so, indeed,
that for the last twenty-five miles
there has been no grass seen at all save
spinifex. After taking a few bearings
from the top of the tree (which I marked
with the letter F on the south side),
which is in south latitude about 28
degrees 41 minutes, and longitude about
122 degrees 50 East, I decided to return
to our last watering place, nearly
thirty-one miles distant, as we were now
over 100 miles from camp, and the horses
had been without water or feed since
yesterday morning. Therefore, keeping a
little to the north of the outward
track, we travelled nearly two hours
after dark, and camped without water or
feed, and tied up the horses.
WINDICH BROOK.
3rd.
Saddled up early, and steered westerly
towards our last watering-place, about
fourteen miles distant; but, after
travelling nearly seven miles, came to a
small pool of water (at the head of the
brook where we found water on the 1st),
and rested two hours to allow our horses
to feed, as they had neither eaten nor
drunk for the last forty-eight hours.
Resuming our journey along the brook
(which I named Windich Brook, after my
companion, Tommy Windich) for ten miles,
in which we found several pools of
water, but destitute of feed, camped
without water about two miles east of
our bivouac of the 30th June.
4th.
Travelling about West-South-West for
twelve miles, we reached the pool of
water found on our outward track on the
30th June, two miles and a half
South-West from Mount Margaret. There we
rested an hour. Resuming, we travelled
nearly along our outward track for
eighteen miles, and camped without water
on a small patch of feed. Tommy shot two
wurrongs to-day.
5th.
Started at daybreak, and, continuing
nearly along our outward track for
twenty-five miles, we reached the water
close to Mount Malcolm, where we left
the party, they having shifted, as
instructed, seventeen miles farther
back. There we rested an hour; but,
having finished our provisions, we
roasted two wurrongs and made a
first-rate dinner. Tommy also shot an
emu that came to water, and which we
carried to camp. Reached there at 6 p.m.
and found all well, having been absent
seven days, every night being without
water, during which time we travelled
over 200 miles.
6th.
Weighed all the rations, and found we
had 283 pounds flour, 31 pounds bacon,
28 pounds sugar, and 4 pounds tea--equal
to thirty-two days' allowance of flour,
ten days' bacon, nineteen days' sugar,
and twenty-one days' tea on a full
ration. Thereupon concluded to return to
Perth as quickly as possible, and reduce
the allowance of tea and sugar to last
thirty days--bacon to be done without.
By that time I hope to reach Clarke's
homestead, Victoria Plains, and intend
to return by Mount Kenneth, Nanjajetty,
Ningham, or Mount Singleton, and thence
to Damparwar and Clarke's homestead,
thus fixing a few points that will be
useful to the Survey Office.
THE
RETURN JOURNEY.
7th.
At 6.30 a.m., barometer 28 86,
thermometer 34 degrees. Started on the
return, and followed along our outward
tracks for sixteen miles. Camped on east
side of granite range, in south latitude
28 degrees 57 minutes, and east
longitude 120 degrees 55 minutes.
8th.
Travelling nearly along our eastward
track, and passing our bivouac of the
19th June, we reached the Two Springs
bivouac.
9th.
Travelled twenty-two miles, and reached
our bivouac of 30th May--129 degrees 9
minutes East.
10th.
Reached the bivouac of May 27th. On our
way I ascended a very high range, which
I named Mount Alfred, and took a fine
round of angles--Mount Alexander, Mount
Bivou, Mount Ida, Mount Elvire, and
Yeadie and Bulgar being visible.
11th
(Sunday).
Plotted up our track.
12th.
Travelled for twenty-five miles and
camped on a splendid patch of feed, with
a little water on some granite rocks
about two miles west of our bivouac of
the 24th. This I found to be in south
latitude 28 degrees 57 minutes 48
seconds by meridian altitudes of Bootes
(Arcturus) and Pegasi (Markab), and in
longitude about 119 degrees 28 minutes
east; Mount Elvire bearing North 154
degrees East magnetic, distant about
twenty-one miles.
13th.
Leaving the party in charge of Mr.
Monger, with instructions to proceed to
Retreat Rock--our bivouac of May 23rd--I
started with Mr. Hamersley and Jemmy to
attempt to cross Lake Barlee, in order
to explore the country on its south
side, near Mount Elvire, as well as to
try and find natives, Jemmy being
acquainted with these tribes. Steering
North 154 degrees East magnetic for
seven miles, we came to the lake, and,
entering it, succeeded in reaching the
southern shore after twelve miles of
heavy walking, sinking over our boots
every step--the horses having great
difficulty in getting through. When we
reached the southern shore, it was
nearly sundown. Determined to push on,
and reached the range, where we
bivouacked on a patch of feed and a
little water; Mount Elvire bearing North
87 degrees East magnetic, about one mile
distant; and Yeadie and Bulgar North 8
degrees East magnetic. Rained lightly
during the day. Being wet through from
the splashings of the horses while
crossing the lake, and from it raining
throughout the night, and not having any
covering, our situation was not the most
pleasant. Jemmy informed me there was a
fine permanent spring close to Mount
Elvire; but we did not go to see it.
14th.
This morning, after ascending a range to
have a view of the country, steered
North 288 degrees East magnetic, and
then, travelling six miles, came to a
branch of Lake Barlee running far to the
southward, which we attempted to cross;
but after travelling a mile and a half,
the horses went down to their girths in
the bog, and we had great difficulty in
getting them to return, which, however,
we ultimately succeeded in doing, and
made another attempt, at a place where a
series of islands appeared, to cross it,
and, passing over without much
difficulty, reached the opposite shore
at sundown, where we bivouacked on a
splendid grassy ride, with abundance of
water in granite rocks, Mount Elvire
bearing North 108 degrees East magnetic,
and Yeadie and Bulgar North 45 degrees
East magnetic.
15th.
Having finished our rations last night,
we started at dawn, and steered towards
Retreat Rock. where we were to meet the
party. After travelling five miles, we
came to that part of Lake Barlee which
we attempted to cross, without success,
on May 19th (on our outward track); but,
leading our horses, we at last succeeded
in crossing, and reached camp, all very
tired, at twelve o'clock, finding all
well. The party were encamped one mile
north of our former bivouac, at some
granite rocks with two fine water-holes.
16th.
Considerable delay having occurred in
collecting the horses, we did not start
till ten o'clock, when we travelled
nearly along our outward track--passing
Yeeramudder Hill, from the summit of
which Mount Elvire bore North 111
degrees 30 minutes East magnetic about
thirty-five miles distant--for about
twenty-one miles, and bivouacked at some
granite rocks with a little feed around
them, which I found to be in south
latitude 29 degrees 8 minutes 47 seconds
by meridian altitudes of Bootes
(Arcturus) and Pegasi (Markab), and in
longitude about 118 degrees 59 minutes
East.
17th.
Started at 8.45 a.m., and, steering
about west for twenty-five miles through
dense thickets without feed, we camped
without water on a small miserable
patch, in south latitude 29 degrees 7
minutes 13 seconds by meridian altitude
of Bootes (Arcturus). Marked a small
tree with F. 1869. Being now in friendly
country, I decided to give up keeping
watch, which had been done regularly for
the last two months.
18th
(Sunday).
After starting the party, went, in
company with Tommy Windich, to take
bearings from a low hill, bearing North
289 degrees, distant about eight miles,
after which we struck in the direction
in which we expected to find the party;
but as, for some reason or other, they
had not passed by, I anticipated they
must have met with good feed and water,
and camped, it being Sunday. However
this may be, we kept bearing more and
more to the southward, in hope of
crossing the track, till after dark,
when we reached the Warne Flats, and
bivouacked. Not expecting to be absent
more than a few days, we had neither
rations nor rugs. Luckily, Tommy shot a
turkey, which we roasted in the ashes,
and made a very good meal. The night was
bitterly cold, and, not having any rug,
I slept with a fire on each side of me,
and, considering the circumstances,
slept fairly.
19th.
Made a first-rate breakfast off the
remainder of the turkey, and then
started in search of the party, making
back towards where we had left them,
keeping well to the southward. After
spending nearly the whole of the day,
and knocking up the horses, we found the
tracks of the party nearly where we had
left them yesterday morning, and,
following along them for nine miles,
found where they had bivouacked last
night; and, it being now two hours after
dark, we camped also, having between us
for supper an opossum, which Tommy had
luckily caught during the day. The night
was again very cold, and we had hardly
anything to eat, which made matters
still worse.
20th.
Starting on the tracks at daybreak,
followed them for about thirteen miles,
and then we found the party encamped on
the east side of a large bare granite
rock called Meroin, Mount Kenneth
bearing North 24 degrees East magnetic,
about fifteen miles distant. From a
cliff, about one mile west of the camp,
took a splendid round of angles, Mount
Kenneth, Mount Singleton, and several
other known points being visible. By
meridian altitudes of sun, a Bootes
(Arcturus), E Bootes, and a Coronae
Borealis, camp was in south latitude 29
degrees 10 minutes 49 seconds, and
longitude about 118 degrees 14 minutes
east.
21st.
At seven a.m., barometer 29.10;
thermometer 35 degrees. Started at 8.15
a.m. Steered about west for fifteen
miles, over country studded here and
there with granite rocks, with good feed
around them--in some places rock
poison--and then camped at a spring
called Pullagooroo, bearing North 189
degrees from a bare granite hill, three
quarters of a mile distant, from which
hill Mount Singleton bore North 237
degrees East magnetic, by meridian
altitudes of a Bootes (Arcturus) and E
Bootes. Pullagooroo is in south latitude
29 degrees 7 minutes 46 seconds.
Finished our bacon this morning, and for
the future will only have damper and
tea.
22nd.
Steering a little to the north of west,
through dense thickets without grass, we
bivouacked at a very grassy spot called
Bunnaroo, from which Mount Singleton
bore North 205 degrees East magnetic. By
meridian altitudes of a Bootes
(Arcturus), E Bootes, and Coronae
Borealis, camp is in south latitude 28
degrees 58 minutes, and in longitude
about 117 degrees 35 minutes east.
MOUNT SINGLETON.
23rd.
After starting the party with
instructions to proceed straight to
Mount Singleton, distant about
thirty-two miles, I went, in company
with Jemmy, to the summit of a high trap
range in order to take a round of
angles, and fix Nanjajetty, which was
visible. While on our way to join the
party, saw the tracks of two men and two
horses, with two natives walking, and
soon after found where they had
bivouacked a few days before. Was much
surprised at this discovery: suppose it
to be squatters looking for country.
Continuing, we found the tracks of our
party, and overtook them, and encamped
at a fine permanent spring--Mount
Singleton bearing North 146 degrees East
magnetic about three miles and a half
distant. Reached the party at seven
o'clock. There was a partial eclipse of
the moon this evening.
24th.
There being splendid green feed around
Mount Singleton, and as the horses were
tired, I concluded to give them a day's
rest. Went, in company with Mr. Monger
and Jemmy, to the summit of Mount
Singleton, which took us an hour to
ascend; but, on reaching it, we were
well repaid for the trouble by the very
extensive view and the many points to
which I could take bearings. Far as the
eye could reach to the East and
South-East were visible Lake Moore,
Mount Churchman; to the north,
conspicuous high trap ranges appeared;
while to the west, within a radius of
six miles, hills covered with flowers
gave the country a pretty appearance.
Further to the west a dry salt lake and
a few trap hills appeared. Reached the
camp at 2 p.m. On our way shot three
rock kangaroos.
25th
(Sunday).
Rested at camp near Mount Singleton,
which I found to be in south latitude 29
degrees 24 minutes 33 seconds by
meridian altitude of sun, and longitude
about 117 degrees 20 minutes east.
26th.
Some delay having occurred in collecting
the horses, did not start till 9 a.m.,
when we steered a little to the north of
west towards Damparwar. For the first
seven miles over rough trap hills
lightly grassed, when we entered
samphire and saltbush flats for four
miles. Crossing a large marsh at a point
where it was only 100 yards wide, and
continuing through thickets, we camped
at a spot with very little feed and no
water, in south latitude 29 degrees 21
minutes 48 seconds. From this spot Mount
Singleton bore North 113 degrees 20
minutes East magnetic, distant about
twenty miles. Here we met two natives,
whom we had seen on our outward track at
the Warne Corroboree. They were of
course friendly, and slept at our camp;
they had a great many dulgates and
opossums, which they carried in a net
bag, made out of the inner bark of the
ordnance-tree, which makes a splendid
strong cord. They informed us that a
native had come from the eastward with
intelligence relating to the encounter
we had with the large tribe on May 31,
adding that we had all been killed, and
that all the natives in this vicinity
had cried very much on hearing the news.
This is another specimen of the
narrations of natives, with whom a tale
never loses anything by being carried.
27th.
Steering a little to the north of west
for eighteen miles, we reached Damparwar
Springs, a clear grassy spot of about
300 acres, on west side of a low granite
hill. The spring was dry, but by digging
a few feet obtained abundant supply.
From the appearance of the country there
has hardly been any rain in this
neighbourhood for many months. Took a
round of angles from a trap hill about
two miles distant, Mount Singleton and
many other points being visible. Met a
party of friendly natives here. By
meridian altitudes of a Bootes, a
Coronae Borealis and a Lyrae (Vega),
Damparwar Spring is in south latitude 29
degrees 16 minutes 32 seconds, and
longitude about 116 degrees 47 minutes
East.
28th.
Steering in a southerly direction, and
following along the western margin of a
salt lake--most of the way over samphire
flats, with thickets intervening, denser
than usual--we encamped on a small
grassy spot, with plenty of water in
granite rocks, called Murrunggnulgo,
situated close to the west side of the
lake, which I named Lake Monger. The
native Jemmy, in company with some of
his friends, stayed behind to-day in
order to catch opossums, and did not
join us this evening. By meridian
altitudes of E Bootes, a Coronae
Borealis, a Lyrae (Vega), and Aquilae
(Altair), Murrunggnulgo is in south
latitude 29 degrees 37 minutes 20
seconds. Damparwar bearing about north
magnetic.
29th.
Moving a little to the west of south for
twenty miles, through dense thickets, by
far the worst we have ever encountered,
and destitute of feed, we reached Bera
Bera, a grassy spot with a dry well,
where water might be procured.
Continuing North 238 degrees East for
about five miles, we reached and camped
at some granite rocks, with a fine well
of water called Wandanno, which I found
to be in south latitude 29 degrees 57
minutes 14 seconds by meridian altitudes
of Lyrae (Vega) and Aquilae (Altair).
From Bera Bera, Mount Singleton bore
North 50 degrees 30 minutes East
magnetic about fifty miles distant.
Jemmy did not put in an appearance
to-day, but sent on a native to say he
would join us in a day or two.
30th.
Travelling about North 212 degrees East
magnetic for fourteen miles, over
samphire flats, with thickets
intervening, we reached a fine grassy
spot, with water in granite rocks,
called Gnookadunging. Continuing about
south for two and a half miles, passed
another small grassy spot called
Ginbinning; thence in about the general
direction of North 210 degrees East
magnetic. For about eleven and a half
miles, over an immense sand-plain,
running as far as the eye could reach to
the North-West and South-East, we camped
in the centre of it at a spring called
Manginie, a sheep station belonging to
Mr. James Church. Towards the end of the
day Bailey's horse Tommy fairly gave in,
and we had great difficulty in getting
him to camp, which Mr. Hamersley and I
did not reach until an hour after dark.
The night was cloudy, and I was unable
to get any observations, but luckily at
daybreak obtained meridian altitudes of
Jupiter, which placed Manginie Spring in
South latitude 30 degrees 21 minutes.
31st.
Steering about South-South-West for
thirteen miles, we reached Cooroo
Springs--a fine grassy spot in
winter--where we camped, the horses
being very tired. For the first seven
miles over scrubby sand-plains; thence
to Cooroo, over grassy country, with
spearwood thickets intervening. Tommy
shot a kangaroo this afternoon, which
was very acceptable, having had only
damper and tea for several days past.
August 1st (Sunday).
Rested at Cooroo Springs. All very busy
putting our ragged clothes in as good
repair as possible. By meridian
altitudes of sun, Lyrae (Vega), 32
degrees 15 minutes. Read Divine Service.
Jemmy has not yet overtaken us, so I
conclude he has changed his mind, and
does not intend following us. We are now
about nine miles from Clarke's
homestead, which bears about
South-South-East.
2nd.
Travelling about South-South-East for
nine miles over grassy country, with
York gums, etc., we reached the
hospitable residence of Mr. Clarke,
where we were very kindly received, and
stayed a short time to hear the news.
Resuming for eighteen miles along the
road to Newcastle, we passed Mr. Donald
Macpherson's, where I obtained some
rations, and pushed on six miles
farther, and bivouacked one mile south
of Badgy-Badgy, with very short feed for
our horses.
3rd.
Travelling along the road towards
Newcastle for twenty-six miles, we
camped one mile past Byen, and about
sixteen miles from Newcastle.
4th.
Reached Newcastle at eleven o'clock, and
had just time to report the safe return
of the expedition before the mail left.
5th.
After handing over all the horses
provided by the different settlers to
their respective owners, and bidding
farewell to Mr. George Monger (who
intends proceeding to York), I left
Newcastle in company with Mr. M.
Hamersley and Tommy Windich, leaving
Morgan and remainder of equipment to
follow with the cart which had been
brought to Newcastle by Ward and C.
Adams. Reached Baylup at 4 p.m.
6th.
Made an early start; reached Guildford
at twelve o'clock, where we rested an
hour. Then resuming, reached Perth at 4
p.m., and reported personally the
results of the expedition, having been
absent 113 days, in which time I
travelled by computation over 2000
miles.
I
now beg to make a few remarks with
reference to the main object of the
expedition, which was the discovery of
the remains of the late Dr. Leichardt
and party.
THE
NATIVES' STORIES.
In
the first place, Mr. Frederick Roe was
informed by the native Weilbarrin, that
two white men and their native
companions had been killed by the
aborigines, thirteen days' journey to
the northward, when he was at a spot
called Koolanobbing, which is in south
latitude about 30 degrees 53 minutes,
and longitude about 119 degrees 14
minutes east. Mr. Austin lost eleven
horses at Poison Rock (nine died, and
two were left nearly dead), which is in
latitude 28 degrees 43 minutes 23
seconds south, and longitude about 118
degrees 38 minutes east, or about 130
miles from Koolanobbing, and in the
direction pointed to by the natives. I
therefore imagine it to be very probable
that the whole story originated from the
horses lost by Mr. Austin at Poison
Rock, as I am convinced the natives will
say anything they imagine will please.
Again, the account given us at Mount
Churchman, on May 5th, appeared very
straightforward and truthful. It was
very similar to that related to Mr. Roe;
but, on questioning the natives, they at
last stated there were neither men nor
guns left, only horses' remains, and
pointed towards Poison Rock. Further,
the native who gave all the information
to Mr. Monger was one of our party. His
tale, as related by Mr. Monger, also
appeared very straightforward and
truthful, that white men had been killed
by the natives twenty years ago; that he
had seen the spot, which was at a spring
near a large lake, so large that it
looked like the sea as seen from
Rottnest, eleven days' journey from
Ningham or Mount Singleton, in a fine
country. The white men were rushed upon
while making a damper, and clubbed and
speared. He had often seen an axe which
formed part of the plunder. All this
appears feasible and truthful enough in
print; but the question is, Of what
value did I find it? Upon telling Jemmy
what Mr. Monger stated he told him, he
said he never told him that he had seen
things himself, but that he had heard it
from a native who had seen them, thus
contradicting the whole he had formerly
stated to Mr. Monger. Moreover, the fine
country he described we never saw, what
a native calls good country being where
he can get a drink of water and a
wurrong; and if there is an acre of
grassy land they describe it as a very
extensive grassy country! This I have
generally found the case. As a specimen
of the untruthfulness of these natives,
I may quote that my native Jemmy, who
was a first-rate fellow in every other
respect, stated to Mr. Monger and myself
at York, that there was a large river
like that called the Avon at York, to
the eastward, knowing at the time he
would be found out to be telling a
falsehood. He even told Mr. George
Monger, before leaving Newcastle, to buy
hooks, in order to catch the fish that
were in the river, and concluded by
stating that we would have great
difficulty in crossing it, as it ran a
great distance north and south. Almost
every evening I questioned and
cross-questioned him respecting this
river; still he adhered to what he first
stated! It may well be imagined how
disappointed we were on reaching the
spot to find only a small brook running
into a salt marsh, with water in winter,
but dry in summer.
With
reference to the country travelled over,
I am of opinion that it is worthless as
a pastoral or agricultural district; and
as to minerals I am not sufficiently
conversant with the science to offer an
opinion, except that I should think it
was worth while sending geologists to
examine it thoroughly.
CONDUCT OF THE PARTY.
It
now becomes my most pleasing duty to
record my entire satisfaction with the
manner in which all the members of the
expedition exerted themselves in the
performance of their respective duties.
To Mr. George Monger and Mr. Malcolm
Hamersley I am indebted for their
co-operation and advice on all
occasions. I am also deeply indebted to
Mr. Hamersley for collecting and
preserving all the botanical specimens
that came within his reach, as well as
the great trouble and care taken with
the store department, placed under his
immediate charge. To probation prisoner
David Morgan my best thanks are due as
the shoeing smith, as well as acting
cook for the party the whole time. Of
Tommy Windich (native) I cannot speak
too highly, being very useful in
collecting the horses, as well as a
first-class huntsman, and really
invaluable as a water finder.
Accompanying me on many trying
occasions, suffering often from want of
water, he showed energy and
determination deserving of the highest
praise. Jemmy Mungaro was also a
first-class bushman, and invaluable as a
water finder. He was in many ways
useful, and very obedient. His great
failing was that he exaggerated--no tale
ever losing anything in his charge.
Nevertheless, I have many things to
thank him for, and therefore he deserves
praise.
In
conclusion, sir, allow me to thank you
for your kindness and advice, which has
greatly supported me in this arduous
undertaking. I much regret that an
expedition which was so efficiently
equipped, and on which I was left so
free to act, has not resulted in more
direct benefit to the colony, to satisfy
many who are not capable of appreciating
the importance of such explorations.
I
have, Sir, etc.,
JOHN FORREST,
Leader of Expedition.
The
Honourable Captain Roe, R.N.,
Surveyor-General.
So
far as the mystery on which the fate of
Leichardt is involved was concerned, my
expedition was barren of results; but
the additional knowledge gained of the
character of the country between the
settled districts of Western Australia
and the 123rd meridian of east
longitude, well repaid me, and those of
the party, for the exertions we had
undergone.
REWARDS.
Shortly after my return I received an
official communication from Mr. Barlee,
the Colonial Secretary at Perth,
announcing that his Excellency the
Governor, with a view to mark his sense
of the value of my services as leader of
the expedition, had sanctioned the
payment to me of a gratuity of 50
pounds. Mr. Monger and Mr. Hamersley
each received 25 pounds; Morgan, the
probation prisoner, who had done good
service in the expedition, especially in
looking after the horses, was promised a
remission of a portion of his sentence.
Tommy Windich and Jemmy Mungaro, the
natives, had each a single-barrel gun,
with his name inscribed--presents which
they highly valued.
So
ended the first of my expeditions; and a
very short time elapsed before I was
called upon to undertake a longer, more
hazardous, and more important journey.
CHAPTER 3.
SECOND EXPEDITION. FROM PERTH TO
ADELAIDE, ROUND THE GREAT BIGHT.
A new
Exploration suggested.
Proposal to reach Adelaide by way of the
South Coast.
The experience derived from Eyre's
Expedition.
Survey of Port Eucla.
Official Instructions.
The Start.
Dempster's Station near Esperance Bay.
The Schooner at Port Eucla.
Journal of the Expedition.
Immediately on my return to Perth a new
expedition was suggested by Dr. Von
Mueller, whose anxiety for the discovery
of Leichardt was rather increased than
abated by the disappointment
experienced. He proposed that I should
start from the upper waters of the
Murchison River with a light party and
provisions for six months, and endeavour
to reach Carpentaria. He thought, not
only would such an expedition almost
certainly find some traces of the lost
explorer, but probably would make
geographical discoveries of the highest
interest and importance. In a paper in
the Colonial Monthly he argued that:
"While those who searched after traces
of the lost party did not solve the
primary objects of their mission, their
labours have not been without importance
to geographical science. The course of
one traveller connected the southern
interior of Queensland in a direct route
with the vast pastoral depressions about
Lake Torrens; the researches of another
explorer, bent on ascertaining
Leichardt's fate, unfolded to us a tract
of table country, now already occupied
by herds and flocks, not less in length
than that of Sweden and Italy...We
should bear fully in mind how a line in
Leichardt's intended direction would at
once enable the squatters of North-East
Australia to drive their surplus of
flocks and herds easily across to the
well-watered, hilly and grassy country
within close proximity to the harbour of
the north-west coast."
I
should have been well satisfied to
undertake an expedition in the proposed
direction, starting from the head of the
Murchison, and trying to connect my
route with that of Mr. A. Gregory's down
Sturt Creek; but the difficulty of
obtaining funds and lack of support
caused the project to be set aside or at
least delayed. Mr. Weld, then Governor
of Western Australia, who always
heartily supported explorations, was in
favour of an attempt to reach Adelaide
by way of the south coast, and offered
me the command of an expedition in that
direction.
I
readily accepted the offer, and at once
busied myself with the necessary
preparations, but was far from being
insensible to the difficulties of the
undertaking. Of the route nothing was
known except the disastrous experience
of Mr. Eyre in 1840 and 1841. His
remarkable narrative--interesting to all
concerned in the history of explorations
or in the records of energy, courage,
and perseverance under the most
discouraging circumstances--might have
acted as a warning to future explorers
against endeavouring to follow in his
track. The fearful privations he
endured, his narrow escape from the most
terrible of all forms of death, were
certainly not encouraging; but his
experience might often be of service to
others, pointing out dangers to be
avoided, and suggesting methods of
overcoming difficulties. At any rate, I
was not deterred from the attempt to
trace once more the coast of the Great
Bight, and to reach the sister colony by
that route. Eyre had not discovered any
rivers, although it was possible that he
might have crossed the sand-bars of
rivers in the night. The difficulties he
laboured under in his almost solitary
journey, and the sufferings he endured,
might have rendered him unable to make
observations and discoveries more
practicable to a better equipped and
stronger party, while the deficiency of
water on the route appeared to offer the
greatest impediment. We were not,
however, deterred from the attempt, and
on the 30th of March, 1870, we started
from Perth on a journey which all knew
to be dangerous, but which we were
sanguine enough to believe might produce
considerable results.
Portrait of Alexander Forrest.
That
we were not disappointed the result will
prove. Indeed, the difficulties were
much fewer than we had been prepared to
encounter; and in five months from the
date of departure from Perth we arrived
safely at Adelaide, completing a journey
which Mr. Eyre had been more than twelve
months in accomplishing.
THE
EXPLORING PARTY.
My
party was thus composed: I was leader;
the second in command was my brother,
Alexander Forrest, a surveyor; H.
McLarty, a police constable; and W.
Osborne, a farrier and shoeing smith,
these with Tommy Windich, the native who
had served me so faithfully on the
previous expedition, and another native,
Billy Noongale, an intelligent young
fellow, accompanied us.
Before I enter upon the details of my
journey it may be useful to state as
briefly as possible the efforts made to
obtain a better acquaintance with the
vast territory popularly known as No
Man's Land, which had been traversed by
Eyre, and afterwards to summarize the
little knowledge which had been
obtained.
In
1860 Major Warburton--who afterwards, in
1873 and 1874, succeeded in crossing the
northern part of the great inland
desert, after enduring great
privations--contrived to reach
eighty-five miles beyond the head of the
Bight, and made several journeys from
the coast in a north and north-westerly
direction for a distance of about sixty
miles. Traces of Eyre's expedition were
then visible. The holes he had dug in
search of water twenty years before were
still there, and the records of his
journey were of great value as guiding
Warburton's movements. His experience of
the nature of the country amply
confirmed that of the previous explorer.
He found the district to the north to be
a dreary waste, destitute of food and
water. Rain seldom fell, and, when it
did, was immediately absorbed by the
arid soil. Bustards and moles were the
only living creatures. To the north-west
there was a little grass, but the tract
showing verdure was very small in
extent, and beyond it was again the
scorched, barren, inhospitable desert.
Two
years afterwards other explorations were
attempted, and especially should be
noted Captain Delessier's. He was
disposed to think more favourably of the
nature of the country. The enterprise of
squatters seeking for "fresh fields and
pastures new," to whom square miles
represent less than acres to graziers
and sheep farmers in England--is not
easily daunted. They made a few
settlements; but the scanty pasturage
and the difficulty of obtaining water,
by sinking wells, in some instances to
the depth of over 200 feet, have been
great drawbacks.
DISCOVERY OF PORT EUCLA.
It
might naturally be inquired why no
attempts were made to reach the coast of
the Great Bight by sea? Why so much
suffering has been endured when a
well-equipped vessel might have landed
explorers at various points and been
ready to afford them assistance? In his
explorations to the north of Western
Australia, Mr. F. Gregory had a
convenient base of operations in the
Dolphin, a barque which remained on the
coast. It might seem that similar aid
could have been afforded to Warburton
and others who attempted to trace the
south-coast line. But for hundreds of
miles along the shores of the Bight no
vessel could reach the shore or lie
safely at anchor. Long ranges of
perpendicular cliffs, from 300 to 400
feet high, presented a barrier
effectually forbidding approach by sea.
About 1867, however, an excellent
harbour was discovered about 260 miles
to the west of Fowler's Bay. The South
Australian Government at once undertook
a survey of this harbour, and Captain
Douglas, President of the Marine Board,
the officer entrusted with this duty,
reported in the most favourable terms.
The roadstead, named Port Eucla, was
found to afford excellent natural
protection for shipping. There was,
however, the less encouraging
circumstance that it was situated a few
miles to the west of the boundary of the
colony, and consequently Western, and
not South, Australia was entitled to the
benefit of the discovery.
It
was evident that Port Eucla, which
Captain Douglas carefully surveyed by
taking soundings and observing bearings,
was the key to the exploration of this
vast portion of the continent. But,
notwithstanding the propositions made to
the Government of Western Australia by
the York Agricultural Society for
equipping an exploring party, nothing
was done until the beginning of 1870,
when the Governor determined on
equipping an overland party intended to
make its way, keeping as far inland as
possible, to Eucla, where assistance and
supplies would await them. It was this
expedition which I was selected to
command. The following copy of official
instructions will show the object of the
exploration and the preparations made to
insure a fair prospect of a successful
result:--
OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.
Colonial Secretary's Office, Perth,
March 29th, 1870.
SIR,
His
Excellency the Governor, confiding in
your experience, ability, and
discretion, has been pleased to entrust
to your charge and leadership an
overland expedition, which has been
organized for the purpose of exploring
the country between the settled portions
of this colony and the Port of Eucla,
situated near its east boundary.
Your
party will consist of the following six
persons, well armed, and provisioned for
two months, namely, yourself as leader;
Mr. Alexander Forrest, your brother, as
second in command; H. McLarty, a
police-constable, third in command; W.H.
Osborne, farrier, etc.; and two reliable
natives, one of whom will be your former
well-tried companion, Windich. An
agreement to serve under you on the
expedition in the above capacities will
be signed by each European named
previous to starting.
Ample stores and supply of provisions
have been prepared for your use, and a
suitable coasting vessel (the schooner
Adur) is engaged, under an experienced
commander, to convey them where
required, and to be at your disposal in
aiding the operations of the expedition.
It
is desirable the party should start from
Perth as soon as all arrangements have
been completed, and take the most
convenient route to Esperance Bay, where
men and horses can be recruited, further
supplies from the coaster laid in, and a
fresh start made for Eucla so soon as
the first winter rains may lead to a
prospect of the country being
sufficiently watered.
About 120 miles to the eastward of the
station of Messrs. Dempster, at the west
end of Esperance Bay, lies Israelite
Bay, under some islands, in front of
which there is said to be anchorage.
That being the nearest known anchorage
westward of Eucla, it appears to offer a
convenient spot whence fresh supplies
might be drawn from your coaster with
which to prosecute the remaining 300
miles; but this arrangement as to an
intermediate place of call will be
liable to modification, after consulting
on the spot with the Messrs. Dempster,
who are well acquainted with that part
of the coast.
Between Israelite Bay and Eucla the
route should be as far from the coast as
circumstances and the nature of the
country will admit.
At
Eucla all the remaining provisions and
stores that may be required should be
landed, and the coaster despatched on
her return to Fremantle with a report of
your proceedings.
After recruiting at Eucla, five or six
days might be employed with advantage in
exploring the country to the northward,
care being taken to place in security,
by burying in casks or otherwise, such
provisions, etc., as might not be
necessary for the northern excursion.
On
returning to Eucla from the north, the
expedition is to make a final start
overland for Adelaide, by such route as
you may deem advisable. The
Surveyor-General is of opinion that via
Port Lincoln, and thence to Adelaide by
steamer, would be the preferable route;
but of this you will be the best judge,
after receiving information from the
various out-stations you will pass.
Before leaving South Australia, you will
dispose of your horses and such
remaining stores and provisions as may
not be further required, retaining all
instruments and such pack-saddles and
other articles of outfit as you may deem
worth preserving for future service.
On
arriving at Adelaide you will report
yourself to his Excellency the Governor,
and avail yourself of the first
favourable opportunity of returning to
Perth with your party, and with the
remains of your outfit, either by any
vessel about to proceed direct to the
Swan, or by the earliest mail-steamer to
King George's Sound. On application to
his Excellency, Sir James Fergusson, you
will be furnished with such means as may
be necessary to defray your expenses
from South to Western Australia, as well
as during your stay in the former
colony.
I am
to impress on you the advisability of
endeavouring, by every means in your
power, to cultivate friendly relations
with the aboriginal inhabitants of the
country you are about to traverse.
Such
are briefly the general instructions by
which it is intended you should be
governed in conducting the expedition
entrusted to your care and guidance; and
I may add that the fullest confidence is
placed in your energy, zeal, and
discretion, for bringing it to a
successful issue. The main objects of
the undertaking are alone referred to;
and, although a mode of accomplishing
them is briefly alluded to, it is by no
means intended to fetter your judgment
in adopting such measures of minor
details as may appear to you necessary
for effectually carrying them out.
I
have the honour to be, Sir, your
obedient servant,
FRED. P. BARLEE.
DEPARTURE FROM PERTH.
The
Adur, chartered by the Government, was a
vessel of thirty tons, owned by Mr.
Gabriel Adams. It gives me much pleasure
to express my thanks to him and to Mr.
Waugh, the master, and to the crew of
the vessel, for the important services
they performed, and the zeal they
exhibited in rendering me assistance,
not only on board the vessel, but also
on shore.
We
started from Perth on the afternoon of
Wednesday, the 30th of March, 1870. His
Excellency the Governor accompanied us
for about three miles on the Albany
Road. We had fifteen horses, and
provisions sufficient for the journey to
Esperance Bay, a distance of about 450
miles, where, it was arranged, further
supplies would await us. By the 5th of
April we had reached Kojonup, travelling
in a north-easterly direction, and then
rested four days, leaving for
Jerramungup on the 9th, and reaching it
on the 13th. Our first day's journey
brought us to Mr. Graham's homestead,
near which we bivouacked; thence our
route lay in an easterly direction, at
first through good grassy country with
jam and white gum trees and shea oaks,
by way of Etticup, Martinup (where we
bivouacked on the night of the 10th),
and Nigalup, beyond which were scrubby
sand-plains extending southwards towards
the Stirling range. On the following
night we camped near some granite rocks.
The next day's journey extended to
Koorarkup, where we again rested. Our
rate of travel was from twenty to
twenty-five miles a day, and already we
began to experience inconvenience from
want of water. A little stream, the
Pallinup, was salt, and there were salt
pools on the route between our last
camping-place and Koorarkup, where we
were now resting.
Around Jerramungup was rich grassy
country, but beyond it we passed over
scrubby undulating plains for about
sixteen miles, camping, on the night of
the 14th, on a small branch of the
Fitzgerald River, near some granite
rocks called Dwertup. At this spot there
was water, but very little feed for the
horses. My observations showed that we
were in latitude 33 degrees 1 minute 15
seconds south.
From
this point the progress will be best
narrated by extracts from my Diary. A
reference to the map will show that as
yet we had not reached the track of
Eyre, who had followed the coast to King
George's Sound; but by the 16th of April
we had reached his line of route.
April 15th.
Travelled to the north of east, and at
seven miles crossed the main branch of
the Fitzgerald River; granite rocks in
bed, and saltwater pools. After
travelling over stony undulating country
for twenty-one miles, camped on a small
patch of feed, with water in some
granite rocks, called Coombedup.
16th.
Continuing easterly over rough stony
country, crossing several brooks with
salt pools of water in them, we reached
the Phillips River, and, after a good
deal of searching, found some fresh
water in a small brook near the river.
The immense pools in the Phillips were
as salt as sea water. Distance travelled
about twenty-five miles.
VIEW OF THE SEA.
17th
(Sunday).
Did not travel. Went this morning, in
company with McLarty, to the summit of a
high hill in Eyre's Range, called
Annie's Peak, which we reached after one
and a half hour's hard climbing. It is
the steepest hill I ever attempted to
ascend. We had a splendid view of the
sea--the first since leaving Perth--and
I also obtained a fine round of angles
and bearings. On our return, found Billy
had shot five ducks, and Tommy soon
returned with an emu. In the evening it
very suddenly came on to thunder and
lighten, and soon rained in torrents,
and, as we were rather unprepared, we
did not pass a very pleasant night.
18th.
Just as we had collected the horses it
commenced to rain in torrents; got under
way, however, by 9 o'clock, steering in
about an easterly direction over sandy,
scrubby country, and at ten miles
crossed a brook with salt pools in it,
and afterwards reached a large river of
salt water, which we followed about two
miles, and then camped at a spring
called Jerdacuttup. It rained in
torrents the whole day, blowing hard
from the southward, so that all were
drenched when we halted.
19th.
After travelling about twenty-three
miles, in an easterly direction, we
reached a salt lake, called Parriup, and
camped. Procured water on some granite
rocks near camp.
20th.
Travelling nine miles, reached Mr.
Campbell Taylor's station on the
Oldfield River, and rested for the
remainder of the day.
21st.
After starting the party, with
instructions to reach and camp on north
side of Stokes' Inlet, distant about
twenty miles, I went with Mr. Taylor to
the mouth of the Oldfield River, in
order to take bearings to East Mount
Barren, but was disappointed, the
weather being very hazy. Accompanied by
a native of Mr. Taylor's, followed on
the tracks, but, night setting in, we
made the best of our way to where I
expected to find the party, but could
see nothing of them, and were obliged to
camp for the night without food, and,
what was worse, without a fire, having
neither matches nor powder with us.
Luckily I had a rug, by which means I
fared much better than my companion, who
had only a small kangaroo skin. As it
blew and rained in torrents most of the
night, our position can be better
imagined than described.
22nd.
Early this morning we were looking for
the tracks of the party, but without
success; finally we returned eight miles
to the Margaret River, and, after a good
deal of searching, found the tracks
almost obliterated by the rain, and
followed along them. Upon nearing
Stokes' Inlet we met Tommy Windich
looking for us, he having seen the
tracks and last night's bivouac. He
informed me that they had camped about
four miles westward of the inlet, and we
had therefore passed them in the dark
last night. Made all haste to overtake
the party; succeeded in doing so, after
a great deal of trouble, one hour and a
half after dark. Encamped on north side
of Barker's Inlet, at a small well of
water called Booeynup. We did justice to
the supper, as we had not had anything
to eat for thirty-two hours.
23rd.
For the first nine miles over scrubby
sand-plains, kangaroos very numerous,
when we came into and skirted a chain of
salt lakes and marshes. Continuing over
generally low country, well grassed, for
five miles, we reached and camped at the
old homestead of the Messrs. Dempster,
called Mainbenup.
ESPERANCE BAY.
24th
(Sunday).
Left camp in company with Billy
Noongale, and proceeded to Esperance
Bay, distant twenty-four miles. On
getting in view of the Bay, was much
disappointed to see no schooner lying at
anchor, and felt very anxious for her
safety. Was very kindly received by Mrs.
Andrew Dempster; the Messrs. Dempster
being away on Mondrain Island.
25th.
Went several times up on the hill,
looking out for the Adur, but was each
time disappointed. On my return in the
evening, found the party had arrived
from Mainbenup, and had camped.
26th.
Rained very heavily all last night.
Shifted camp over one mile west of
homestead to a sheltered spot, where
there was feed and wood. No signs of the
Adur.
27th
and 28th.
Rested at camp; the weather very stormy.
The Messrs. Dempster returned from
Mondrain Island this evening.
29th.
Shifted camp back to the homestead, and
camped in a sheltered nook near the
Head. On ascending the Look-out Hill
this evening, was rejoiced to espy the
Adur near Cape Le Grand, making in for
the Bay, and at 8 o'clock went off in
Messrs. Dempster's boat, and had the
great pleasure of finding all hands
well. They had experienced heavy
weather, but everything was dry and
safe. I cannot find words to express the
joy and relief from anxiety this
evening; all fears and doubts were at an
end, and I was now in a position to
attempt to carry out my instructions.
The
Messrs. Dempster, whose hospitality was
so welcome, are good specimens of the
enterprising settlers who are
continually advancing the frontiers of
civilization, pushing forward into
almost unknown regions, and establishing
homesteads which hereafter may develop
into important towns. In ten days we had
journeyed 160 miles, and had enjoyed a
foretaste of the nature of the country
through which we should have to make our
way. Four days' rest recruited our
energies, and the arrival of the Adur,
with stores, gave all the party
excellent spirits.
The
last day of April was occupied with
landing the stores required for
immediate use, and the following day,
being Sunday, we rested, and, observing
the practice adopted in my previous
expeditions, I read Divine Service to a
somewhat larger congregation than I
generally had around me.
The
horses had suffered from sore backs, the
result of saddles being stuffed with
straw; and on the two following days we
were all busy restuffing them with wool,
and I set Osborn, the farrier, to work
to widen and alter the iron-work, so as
to make the saddles more comfortable and
easy to the horses. From the 3rd to the
8th of May we remained at Mr.
Dempster's, and I made a survey of his
location, a tract of forty acres. On
Saturday, the 7th, Mr. William Dempster
left for Perth, and I had the
opportunity of sending a report of our
proceedings to that date to the Colonial
Secretary, and also of forwarding
private letters.
LAST DAY IN ESPERANCE BAY.
Sunday, the 8th, being our last day in
Esperance Bay, was passed quietly, all
attending Divine Service at Mr.
Dempster's house; and on the following
morning we prepared to start on the
second stage of our journey. The Adur
was to meet us again at Israelite Bay,
about 120 miles to the eastward; and
here I resume the extracts from my
Diary:--
May
9th.
After collecting the horses, we saddled
up and started en route for Israelite
Bay, where I had instructed the master
of the Adur to meet us. Bidding good-bye
to our kind friends at Esperance Bay,
travelled along the north shore for
about eleven miles, when we left the
coast and steered towards Mount
Merivale, and camped at a spring on
South-East corner of a salt sake, Mount
Merivale bearing North 60 degrees East
magnetic; Frenchman's Peak North 150
degrees East magnetic, and Remarkable
Island North 196 degrees East magnetic.
The country for the last few miles is
beautifully grassed, with numerous
brackish streams running through.
Commenced keeping watch this evening,
two hours each, from 8 p.m. to 6 o'clock
a.m. Marked a tree with the letter F. at
our bivouac.
10th.
Travelled nearly due East for
twenty-four miles, through scrubby,
sandy country without timber. Remarkable
bare granite hills studded in every
direction. Camped at a spring on
South-East side of granite hills,
resembling a saddle. Passed Mount Hawes,
leaving it a little to the north. From
hill near camp, Mount Hawes bore North
295 degrees East magnetic, Mount
Merivale North 278 degrees East
magnetic, Frenchman's Peak North 243
degrees 30 minutes East magnetic, and
the east side of Mondrain Island North
207 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic.
11th.
The horses having strayed back on the
tracks last night, we were delayed till
10 o'clock, when only eight of them were
brought in. Sent Tommy in search of the
remainder, and, after waiting until 3
o'clock for his return, my brother,
Osborn, and Billy went with seven horses
and loads; instructed to camp at the
first place where there was feed and
water, there being no feed at this camp.
McLarty and myself waited until Tommy
returned, which he did at sundown,
having had to go back twenty-four miles
to the bivouac of the 9th. There being
scarcely any feed here, and it being too
late to follow after the party, we tied
up our horses for the night. Found it
rather long hours watching, namely,
about four hours each. By meridian
altitude of sun, camp is in latitude 33
degrees 90 minutes 49 seconds South.
12th.
Packed up and followed on the tracks of
the party, and at ten miles found them
camped on a branch of a creek which runs
into Duke of Orleans Bay. Brackish
streams plentiful: scrubby, sandy
country. By meridian altitudes of sun
and Arcturus, camp is in South latitude
33 degrees 51 minutes 35 seconds.
THE
ALEXANDER RIVER.
13th.
Travelled in an easterly direction
towards Cape Arid, passing at five miles
a large creek, and at ten miles camped
on a running brackish stream, which I
named the Alexander. Scrubby open
country most of the way. Shot a few
ducks from thousands that are in these
rivers.
14th.
Continuing a little to the south of East
for ten miles, crossed a large brook,
and at fourteen miles reached another
creek. Followed it up a mile and camped
on east side of a large salt lagoon,
into which the brook empties. Splendid
green feed around camp, but no water.
Went with Billy to look for some, and,
after going a mile and a half East,
struck the Thomas River, where we met
two natives, quietly disposed, who
showed us the water, and, after filling
our canteens, returned with us to camp.
15th
(Sunday).
Shifted camp over to the Thomas River,
one mile and a half, where there was
plenty of water. Rained a little during
the day. Grassy piece of country round
camp--the first good feeding land seen
since leaving Mount Merivale. About half
a mile west of camp, Mount Ragged bore
North 43 degrees 30 minutes East
magnetic, Mount Baring North 53 degrees
15 minutes East magnetic, and South-West
point of Cape Arid North 140 degrees 30
minutes East. By meridian altitude of
sun, camp was in south latitude 33
degrees 50 minutes 7 seconds, and
longitude about 123 degrees East. Billy
shot five ducks this afternoon.
16th.
Got an early start and steered nearly
East, accompanied by the two natives,
over scrubby sand-plains for about
twenty-one miles. We camped near the
sea, a few miles to the westward of Cape
Pasley. Filled our canteens about two
miles back from where we camped, from
which point Mount Ragged bore North 11
degrees East magnetic, Cape Pasley North
110 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic,
and South-East point of Cape Arid North
214 degrees East magnetic.
17th.
Steering in an East-North-East direction
for about nineteen miles, we camped near
Point Malcolm, Mount Ragged bearing
North 327 degrees East magnetic, and
Point Dempster (Israelite Bay) North 35
degrees 15 minutes East magnetic. Hope
to reach Israelite Bay to-morrow, as it
is only sixteen miles distant. There was
no water at Point Malcolm, but luckily
we had filled our canteens. The wind was
strong from the westward, accompanied
with light showers all day. Tommy shot a
kangaroo this evening, and the two
natives who were travelling with us from
the Thomas River did ample justice to
the supper, literally eating the whole
night.
ISRAELITE BAY.
18th.
After starting the party, went in
advance with Billy to prepare camp at
Israelite Bay. When we reached it were
delighted to find the Adur lying safely
at anchor there; proceeding on board,
found all well. Procured abundance of
water by digging one foot deep in the
sand-hills, and good feed a short
distance from camp.
Our
friends on the Adur were looking
anxiously for us. We were two days
behind the appointed time, and they
feared some evil had befallen us, not
taking into consideration the many
delays incidental to such a journey
through strange and difficult country as
we had made. We had occupied ten days in
reaching Israelite Bay since leaving Mr.
Dempster's station, going an average of
about twelve miles a day, which would be
a slow rate of progress in a settled
country, but which had sufficiently
tried our horses, they being now in a
very reduced condition from scarcity of
feed. I resolved to stay at the camp for
eight or ten days to recruit the horses,
as there was good feed in the vicinity;
and we re-stuffed and re-fitted the
saddles and had the horses shod. I made
a correct chart of the route from
Esperance Bay, and found that the
coast-line, as laid down in the
Admiralty charts, was in many places
incorrect.
On
the 24th of May we determined to
celebrate the Queen's birthday. All
hands from the Adur came ashore, and I
drew them up in line under the Union
Jack, which was duly hoisted near the
camp. We presented arms; sang God Save
the Queen vigorously, and fired a salute
of twenty-one guns, finishing with three
cheers. I venture to record that our
vocal efforts were as sincerely and
heartily made in the Australian
wilderness as any which rang that day in
any part of her Majesty's wide
dominions. We were all highly
delighted--not only feeling that we had
done our duty as loyal subjects, but
other celebrations in more civilized
places were forcibly recalled to memory.
I
had fixed the 30th as the time for our
fresh start, and we had enough to do in
packing bags, and making general repairs
and improvements in our outfit. Eucla
Bay, the only other point at which we
should be able to communicate with the
coaster, was 350 miles to the east of
Israelite Bay. The nature of the country
was quite unknown, except so far as
indicated by the not very encouraging
record of Eyre's journey. We felt that
we should inevitably have to encounter
considerable difficulties, and perhaps
even fail to reach Eucla. I deemed it
right to give explicit directions to Mr.
Waugh, the master of the schooner, so
that, in the event of not meeting with
us at the appointed place, he should
have no difficulty as to the course to
pursue, and to that end I gave him in
writing the following instructions:--
INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE SCHOONER.
Israelite Bay, 28th May, 1870.
SIR,
It
being my intention to start for Eucla on
Monday, the 30th instant, I have the
honour to direct you will be good enough
to make arrangements for leaving this
place on the 7th of June, wind and
weather permitting, and sail as direct
as possible for Port Eucla, situated in
south latitude 31 degrees 43 minutes,
and east longitude 128 degrees 52
minutes East.
You
will remain at anchor in Port Eucla
until the 1st September, long before
which time I hope to reach and meet you
there. No signs of myself or party
appearing by that date, you will bury in
casks under the Black Beacon, 400 pounds
flour, 200 pounds pork, 100 pounds
sugar, 10 pounds tea, and four bags
barley, together with the remainder of
our clothing on board. You will be
careful to hide the spot of concealment
as much as possible, or by any other
means that may suggest themselves. Also
you will bury a bottle containing report
of your proceedings.
All
these matters had better be attended to
a day or two before, and on the 2nd of
September you will set sail and return
with all despatch to this place
(Israelite Bay), where, if I have been
obliged to return, I will leave buried a
bottle at this spot (arranged by us
yesterday), which will contain
instructions as to your future
proceedings.
No
signs of our return being found here,
you will sail for Fremantle, calling at
Esperance Bay on your way.
On
arriving in Fremantle, you will
immediately report your return to the
Honourable the Colonial Secretary, and
forward him a report of your
proceedings, after which your
charter-party will have been completed.
These arrangements are chiefly
respecting your proceedings in the event
of our not reaching Eucla; and I may add
that, although I have every hope of
reaching there in safety, still it is
impossible to command success in any
enterprise, and I have to impress upon
you the necessity of these instructions
being carried out, as nearly as
possible, to the very letter. Wishing
yourself and crew a prosperous voyage,
and hoping soon to meet you in Port
Eucla,
I
have, etc.,
JOHN FORREST,
Leader of Expedition.
Mr.
R.B. Waugh,
Master of Schooner Adur.
STARTING FOR EUCLA.
On
Sunday, the 29th of May, all hands came
ashore to dinner. It was certainly a
festive party under rather extraordinary
circumstances, but it was heartily
enjoyed. So far as we were concerned the
future was more than usually uncertain;
but there was no feeling of despondency,
and we separated in the evening with
mutual good wishes and hopes for the
success of the expedition. I read Divine
Service, and, situated as we were, a
small party remote from civilization, I
think we all felt more impressed than
under ordinary circumstances would have
been the case. We had rested for eleven
days. Good food had restored the
condition of the horses, and we rested
in our camp in good spirits, ready for
the work we were to begin on the
following morning. My observations
showed that we were in latitude 33
degrees 36 minutes 58 seconds South and
longitude about 123 degrees 48 minutes
East, the variation of compass from a
number of azimuths being about 0 degrees
46 minutes westerly.
The
narrative is now continued in extracts
from my Diary:--
May
30th.
After bidding good-bye to the crew of
the Adur, and to the two natives we have
had with us from the Thomas River, who
were now at the end of their country and
were afraid to come any further with us,
we left Israelite Bay en route for
Eucla, and steered in a northerly
direction for about fifteen miles over
salt marshes and clay-pans, with dense
thickets intervening, destitute of
grass. I was obliged to make for the
coast, and, following it for about eight
miles, we camped close to it, without
water or feed, and tied up our horses in
latitude 33 degrees 17 minutes 17
seconds by meridian altitude of Arcturus
and a Bootes.
31st.
Saddled up at dawn and continued along
the beach for four miles; came to a
large sand patch, and found abundance of
water by digging one foot deep in the
hollows. Camped on east side of the
sand-hills, with first-rate feed for the
horses. By meridian altitude of sun,
camp is in latitude 33 degrees 13
minutes 46 seconds South.
June
1st.
After starting the party, went with
Tommy Windich to examine the country to
the North-West, and then, travelling
nine miles over salt marshes and
samphire flats, with dense scrub
intervening, we reached what is named on
the Admiralty Charts The Front Bank,
which, ascending, we found very steep
and rough. At last, gaining the summit,
the country receded to the north, level
and thickly wooded, as far as the eye
could reach. We travelled about four
miles to the North-West, from where we
ascended the range, and then climbed a
tree to have a view of the country,
which I found very level and thickly
wooded with mallee. I therefore
determined to turn east, and if
possible, reach the party to-night.
Accordingly, we reached the sea, and,
following the tracks of the party, came
up with them at about 10 p.m., encamped
on North-East side of an immense
sand-patch, about twenty-five miles from
our last night's bivouac. There was
abundance of water on the surface in the
hollows of the sand-hills.
2nd.
There being no feed near camp, saddled
up and continued towards Point Culver
for four miles and camped, with only
some coarse grass growing on the white
sand-hills for our very hungry horses.
Found plenty of water by digging. This
is a poor place for the horses: intend
making a flying trip to the North-East
to-morrow. By meridian altitude of sun
and Arcturus, camp is in latitude 32
degrees 55 minutes 30 seconds south, and
longitude 124 degrees 25 minutes east.
3rd.
Started with my brother and Billy to
examine the country to the North-East,
and travelled in about a North-East
direction for twenty-five miles over
very level country, but in many places
most beautifully grassed. We camped on a
splendid flat, without water.
A
VIEW OF THE SEA.
4th.
Started at dawn and travelled in a
southerly direction for nine miles, when
we found a rock water-hole containing
one gallon, and had breakfast.
Continuing for four miles, we reached
the cliffs, which fell perpendicularly
into the sea, and, although grand in the
extreme, were terrible to gaze from.
After looking very cautiously over the
precipice, we all ran back quite
terror-stricken by the dreadful view.
Turning our course westward along the
cliffs, we reached camp at 5 o'clock,
and found all well. We saw several
natives' tracks during the day.
5th
(Sunday).
Rested at camp. Read Divine Service.
Intend making preparations to-morrow for
starting on Tuesday morning, and attempt
to reach the water shown on Mr. Eyre's
track, in longitude 126 degrees 24
minutes East, 150 miles distant, by
carrying thirty gallons of water with us
and walking in turns, so as to have the
horses to carry the water. Intend
allowing each man one quart and each
horse two quarts per day. Feel very
anxious as to the result, as it will
take five or six days; but it is the
only resource left. After explaining my
views to my companions, and pointing out
the great probability of our meeting
with small rock water-holes, was much
relieved by the sanguine way in which
they acquiesced in the plans, and the
apparent confidence they placed in me.
6th.
Filled the water-cans, and got
everything ready for a start to-morrow
morning.
7th.
Started at 9 a.m., carrying over thirty
gallons of water with us. One of the
drums leaked so much that we left it at
camp. Travelled along our outward tracks
of the 4th, and camped at our former
bivouac, with splendid feed, but no
water for our horses.
8th.
Started early, and steered about
North-East through dense mallee
thickets, destitute of grass or water,
for eighteen miles. We came upon a small
patch of open grassy land, and camped
without water for our horses. This is
the second night our horses have been
without water, but the grass has been
fresh, and they do not yet appear to
have suffered much. Marked a tree at
camp, F., 1870. My brother, I am sorry
to say, left his revolver at our last
night's bivouac, and did not notice it
until this evening, when it was too far
to send back to look for it. By meridian
altitude of Arcturus, camp is in
latitude 32 degrees 34 minutes 20
seconds south, and longitude 124 degrees
59 minutes east.
SUFFERINGS FROM THIRST.
9th.
Made an early start, steering
North-East, and at one mile found a rock
water-hole containing fifteen gallons,
which we gave the tired, thirsty horses,
and, continuing, chiefly through dense
mallee thickets, with a few grassy flats
intervening, for twenty-two miles, found
another rock water-hole holding about
ten gallons, which we also gave the
horses, and, after travelling one mile
from it, camped on a large grassy flat,
without water for the horses. Our horses
are still very thirsty, and have yet
seventy miles to go before reaching the
water in longitude 126 degrees 24
minutes East. Am very thankful for
finding the little water to-day, for if
we had none, our situation would be
somewhat perilous, and some of the
horses would probably show signs of
distress to-morrow. Latitude of camp, 32
degrees 20 minutes 35 seconds South by
Arcturus, and longitude 125 degrees 16
minutes East.
10th.
Steering East-North-East over generally
open country, grassy flats, etc., thinly
wooded, for twenty-one miles, found a
small rock water-hole containing three
gallons, which we put into our canteens.
After travelling three miles further,
camped on the edge of a grassy flat, and
gave our horses half a gallon each from
our canteens. Our horses appear
fearfully distressed this evening. For
the last ninety-six hours they have only
had two gallons each. Latitude of camp
32 degrees 11 minutes 5 seconds South,
longitude 125 degrees 37 minutes East.
11th.
Found, on collecting the horses, that
four were missing. Those found were in a
sad state for want of water, and there
was not a moment to lose. I therefore at
once told Tommy to look for those
missing, and, after saddling up, sent
the party on with my brother, with
instructions to steer easterly for
nearly fifty miles, when they would
reach the water in longitude 126 degrees
24 minutes East. I remained behind to
await Tommy's return, and, after an
hour's awful anxiety, was rejoiced to
see him returning with the ramblers. We
lost no time in following after the
party, and at two miles came to a
water-hole they had emptied and given to
the horses (fifteen gallons), and at
five miles overtook them. After
travelling ten miles, found another
water-hole with fifteen gallons, which
we also gave our horses, they being
still very thirsty. At fourteen miles
found a water-hole holding three
gallons, which we transferred to our
canteens; and at fifteen miles camped on
a small but very grassy flat, close to
which we found a water-hole of ten
gallons, which I intend giving the
horses to-morrow morning. Although the
horses are still very thirsty, they are
much relieved, and are willing to feed.
We all felt tired from long, weary, and
continued walking. By meridian altitude
of Arcturus, camp is in latitude 32
degrees 13 minutes South, and longitude
125 degrees 51 minutes East.
12th
(Sunday).
After giving the horses the little water
found by Tommy last evening, we struck a
little to the south of east over
generally grassy country, slightly
undulating for three miles, when, being
in advance, walking, I found a large
water-hole with about 100 gallons of
water in it. It being Sunday, and men
and horses very tired, I halted for the
day, as there was most luxuriant feed
round camp. Our horses soon finished the
water, and looked much better after it.
Although now without water, we are in
comparative safety, as the horses have
had nearly sufficient. We are now only
thirty-two miles from the water shown on
Mr. Eyre's chart, in longitude 126
degrees 24 minutes East. Latitude of
camp 32 degrees 13 minutes 35 seconds
South, and longitude 125 degrees 54
minutes East.
MEETING NATIVES.
13th.
Made an early start, and steering a
little to the south of east, keeping
straight for the water in longitude 126
degrees 24 minutes East. At eighteen
miles got a view of the sea, and beheld
the sand-hills about fifteen miles
ahead. Here we saw some natives' fires
close to us. Approaching them, we came
upon an old woman, and my brother and
Tommy soon brought a man to bay. There
were about twenty round us; they
appeared very frightened. After
detaining them half an hour, and
treating them as kindly as possible, we
bade them farewell and continued our
journey. The natives were entirely
naked. After we left the natives, we
came to where the cliffs leave the sea,
in longitude 126 degrees 12 minutes
East. From here Point Dover was clearly
visible, and I cannot express my
feelings when gazing on the scene. To
the westward, those grand precipitous
cliffs, from 200 to 300 feet high, and
Point Dover, near which Mr. Eyre's
overseer was murdered, could easily be
discerned; and while thinking over his
hardships and miseries, we turned our
faces eastward, and there saw, within a
few miles, the water we so much needed.
We then descended the cliffs and reached
the sea shore, which we followed for
about twelve miles, reaching the first
sand-patch at about 10 o'clock p.m.
There was good feed all around, but we
could not, from the darkness, find any
water. Gave our horses all we had with
us, about fifteen gallons.
A
GLIMPSE OF THE ADUR.
14th.
This morning searched the sand-patches
for water, without success; I therefore
packed up and proceeded towards another
large patch, four miles distant, going
in advance with Billy. After we left,
Tommy found a place used by the natives,
where water could be procured by
digging. He, however, followed after
Billy and myself. On reaching the
sand-patch we saw the place where water
could be procured by digging; we also
found sufficient to satisfy our horses
on some sandstone flats. We were soon
joined by the party, who were overjoyed
to be in perfect safety once more, and
we were all thankful to that Providence
which had guarded us over 150 miles
without finding permanent water. We soon
pitched camp, and took the horses to the
feed, which was excellent. Returning, we
were surprised to see a vessel making in
for the land, and soon made her out to
be the Adur. Although the wind was
favourable for Eucla, she made in for
the land until within about three miles,
when she turned eastward, and, although
we made fires, was soon out of sight. I
afterwards ascertained that they were
not sure of their longitude, having no
chronometer on board, and therefore
wished to see some landmark.
15th.
Dug two wells to-day, and found good
water at seven feet from the surface.
Lined them with stakes and bushes to
keep them from filling in. In the
afternoon we all amused ourselves
shooting wattle-birds, and managed to
kill fifteen.
16th.
Dug another well and bushed it up, the
supply from the two dug yesterday being
insufficient, and obtained an ample
quantity of splendid fresh water. By a
number of observations, camp is in
latitude 32 degrees 14 minutes 50
seconds South, and longitude 126 degrees
24 minutes East, the variation of
compass being about 1 degree 6 minutes
easterly. The horses are improving very
quickly, there being splendid feed round
the sand-patches.
17th.
Went with Tommy Windich for a walk
eastward along the beach, and returned a
little inland. Passed over some patches
of beautiful grassed country. Saw a pine
pole standing on one of the hummocks
near the beach, probably erected by Mr.
Eyre, as I am not aware of any one else
having been here. We could not find any
of his camps, however; doubtless the
sand has long since covered them.
18th.
Making preparations for a flying trip
inland on Monday.
19th
(Sunday).
Read Divine Service. Every appearance of
rain.
20th.
Started this morning, in company with
McLarty and Tommy Windich, to explore
the country to the northward. The first
twelve miles north was through very
dense thickets and sandy hills, when we
reached the cliffs, which we ascended
with difficulty, and steering about
North-North-East for the first three
miles, through dense mallee thickets, we
emerged into a generally grassy country,
and travelled over beautifully-grassed
downs. We camped at a rock water-hole of
fifteen gallons, about twenty-five miles
from main camp.
21st.
Steering about north for one mile, we
found a rock water-hole holding about
thirty gallons; and continuing for
thirteen miles over grassy plains,
thinly wooded, the country became very
clear and open, and at twenty-five miles
there was nothing but plains, gently
undulating, of grass and salt-bush in
view. Far as the eye could reach to the
North-West, North, and North-East, this
clear and grassy country extended; and
being now fifty miles from camp, with
the prospect of finding water
diminishing as we travelled northward, I
determined to return. Accordingly struck
South-West, and after travelling twelve
miles found a small water-hole of three
gallons, and camped for the night. Set
watch as follows: myself 7 to 11,
McLarty 11 to 3.30 a.m., and Tommy from
3.30 to 6 a.m. We found them rather long
hours.
22nd.
Saddled up at dawn, and steering
southerly over clear, open, grassy
plains for twenty-eight miles, we
reached the cliffs, and rested an hour;
after which we continued our journey and
reached camp a little after dark,
finding all well.
A
RELIC OF EYRE.
23rd.
Made preparations for a start for Eucla
to-morrow, and put everything in
travelling order. During my absence,
Osborn had got the horses' feet in
order, and the pack-saddles had been
overhauled, and repairs generally made.
In looking round the camp, Tommy Windich
found shoulder-blade of a horse, and two
small pieces of leather. They no doubt
belonged to Mr. Eyre's equipment, and,
on reference to his journal, I find he
was here obliged to kill a horse for
food. In his journal he writes thus:
"Early on the morning of the 16th April,
1841, I sent the overseer to kill the
unfortunate horse, which was still alive
but unable to rise from the ground,
having never moved from the place where
he had first been found lying yesterday
morning. The miserable animal was in the
most wretched state possible, thin and
emaciated by long and continued
suffering, and labouring under some
complaint that in a very few hours, at
the farthest, must have terminated its
life." I cut off part of the
shoulder-blade, and have since given it,
together with the pieces of leather, to
his Excellency Governor Weld.
A
PARTY OF NATIVES.
24th.
Started at 8.30 a.m. en route for Eucla.
Steering in a North-North-East direction
for fifteen miles, reached the cliffs,
and after following along them two
miles, found a large rock water-hole,
but in an almost inaccessible spot.
While I was examining the cliffs near,
to find a place where we could get the
horses up, Tommy heard a cooey, and
after answering it a good many times, we
were surprised to see two natives
walking up towards us, unarmed. I
approached and met them; they did not
appear at all frightened, and at once
began to eat the damper I gave them. We
could not understand anything they said.
I beckoned them to come along with us,
which they at once did, and followed so
closely after me as to tramp on my
spurs. They pointed to water further
ahead. After walking about a mile, four
more natives were seen running after us,
who, on joining, made a great noise,
singing, and appearing very pleased.
Shortly afterwards two more followed,
making seven in all; all entirely naked,
and every one circumcised. We found the
water alluded to on the top of the
cliffs, but, it being too late to get
the horses up, we turned off to the
southward half a mile, and camped on a
small grassy flat, without water for the
horses. The seven natives slept at our
fire. We gave them as much damper as
they could eat. They had not the least
particle of clothing, and made pillows
of each other's bodies, and resembled
pigs more than human beings.
25th.
The horses began to stray towards
morning, and at 3 a.m. I roused Billy
and brought them back. After saddling
up, went to the cliffs, and with two
hours' hard work in making a path and
leading up the horses (two of which fell
backwards), we managed to gain the
summit. The seven natives accompanied
us, and giving one of them the bag
containing my rug to carry over to the
water, I was surprised to see him
trotting off with it. Calling Tommy, we
soon overtook him and made him carry it
back to the party. After giving our
horses as much as they required from the
fine water-holes, I motioned five of the
natives to leave us and two to accompany
us, which they soon understood, and
appeared satisfied. Travelling in an
East-North-East direction for twenty-one
miles, over rich grassy table-land
plains, thinly wooded, we camped on a
very grassy spot, without water for our
horses. By meridian altitude of
Arcturus, camp is in latitude 31 degrees
52 minutes 30 seconds south, and
longitude 126 degrees 53 minutes East.
26th
(Sunday).
Finding the two natives entirely
useless, as we could not understand
them, and had to give them part of the
little water we carried with us,
motioned them to return, which they
appeared very pleased to do. Steering in
an easterly direction for two miles,
over downs of most luxuriant grass, we
found a large rock water-hole holding
over 100 gallons. It was Sunday, and all
being tired, we camped for the day. In
every direction, open gently undulating
country, most beautifully grassed,
extended. By meridian altitude of sun,
camp is in latitude 31 degrees 53
minutes South. Read Divine Service.
Tommy and Billy went for a stroll, and
returned bringing with them two small
kangaroos, (the first we have shot since
leaving Israelite Bay) which proved a
great treat. The natives also found a
fine water-hole about a mile from camp.
Gave the horses all the water at this
place. Every appearance of rain.
27th.
Made rather a late start, owing to some
of the horses straying. Steered in an
East-North-East direction, and at ten
miles found a small waterhole, and at
twenty-one miles another, both of which
we gave our horses, and at twenty-four
miles camped on a grassy spot, without
water for our horses. For the first
fifteen miles grassy, gently undulating,
splendid feeding country extended in
every direction, after which there was a
slight falling off, scrubby at
intervals. By meridian altitude of
Arcturus, camp was in latitude 31
degrees 46 minutes 43 seconds South, and
longitude 127 degrees 17 minutes East.
28th.
Had some difficulty in collecting the
horses, and made a late start, steering
in about an East-North-East direction
for the first five miles, over very
grassy flats, etc., when it became more
dense and scrubby until twenty miles,
after which it improved a little. At
twenty-four miles we camped on a grassy
rise, without water, in south latitude
31 degrees 41 minutes, and longitude 127
degrees 40 minutes East. Our horses
appeared distressed for want of water,
the weather being very warm.
HEAVY MARCHING.
29th.
Had to go back five miles to get the
horses this morning. After saddling up,
travelled in about an easterly direction
for twenty-four miles, and camped on a
grassy rise, close to a small rock
water-hole. During the day, found in
small rock-holes sufficient to give each
horse about three gallons. The country
was generally very grassy, although in
some places rather thickly wooded.
McLarty was very foot-sore from heavy
and long walking. By meridian altitude
of Arcturus, camp is in latitude 31
degrees 45 minutes South, and longitude
128 degrees 2 minutes East.
30th.
Hearing the horses make off, I roused
Billy and brought them back; they had
gone two miles. Packed up, and steering
in an east direction over generally very
grassy country with occasional mallee
thickets, for about twenty-two miles, we
came to a splendidly-grassed rise, and
found a fine rock water-hole on it,
containing about 100 gallons, which our
horses soon finished being fearfully in
want, the day being very warm. We are
now only thirty miles from Eucla. For
the last two days McLarty has been so
lame that I have not allowed him to
walk--his boots hurting his feet.
July
1st.
Made an early start, every one being in
high spirits, as I told them they should
see the sea and Eucla to-day. Travelling
about east over most beautifully-grassed
country, at five miles found a large
water-hole, holding 100 gallons; but our
horses, not being thirsty, did not drink
much. This is the first rock water-hole
we have passed without finishing since
we left Point Culver. After ten miles
reached the cliffs, or Hampton Range,
and had a splendid view of the Roe
Plains, Wilson's Bluff looming in the
distance, bearing North 77 degrees 30
minutes East magnetic.
Descending the cliffs with difficulty,
we followed along the foot of them,
which was beautifully grassed, and,
after travelling twelve miles, beheld
the Eucla sand-hills. On my pointing
them out, every heart was full of joy,
and, being away some distance, I heard
the long and continued hurrahs from the
party! Eucla was all the conversation! I
never before remember witnessing such
joy as was evinced on this occasion by
all the party. After travelling five
miles further we camped close to the
cliffs, at a small water-hole, Wilson's
Bluff bearing North 85 degrees East
magnetic, and the Delissier sand-hills
North 90 degrees East magnetic. We might
have reached Eucla this evening, but I
preferred doing so to-morrow, when we
could have the day before us to choose
camp. We are now again in safety, Eucla
being only seven miles distant, after
having travelled 166 miles without
finding permanent water--in fact, over
300 miles with only one place where we
procured permanent water, namely, in
longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes East. I
trust we all recognized with sincerity
and thankfulness the guiding and
protecting Father who had brought us
through in safety. By observation, the
camp was in latitude 31 degrees 42
minutes South.
EUCLA REACHED.
2nd.
Made an early start and steered straight
for the anchorage, distant about five
miles, having first ascended the range
to have a view of the country, which was
very extensive. Far as the eye could
reach to the westward the Roe Plains and
Hampton Range were visible; while to the
eastward lay Wilson's Bluff and the
Delissier sand-hills; and three miles
west of them we were delighted to behold
the good schooner Adur, riding safely at
anchor in Eucla harbour, which formed by
no means the least pleasing feature of
the scene to our little band of weary
travellers. Made at once for the vessel,
and, on reaching her, found all well and
glad to see us. She was anchored between
the Red and Black Beacons. The latter
had been blown down, but shall be
re-erected. There being no water at the
anchorage, moved on to the Delissier
sand-hills, where we found water by
digging two and a half feet from the
surface. Camped on west side of the
sand-hills. Landed barley, etc., from
the boat. There was good feed for the
horses under the Hampton Range, about a
mile and a half distant.
The
next day was Sunday. The crew of the
Adur came ashore and dined with us, and,
as usual, I read Divine Service. On the
following morning I went aboard the
schooner and examined the log-book and
charts. We painted the Red and Black
Beacons, and Mr. Adams having trimmed up
a spar, we erected a flagstaff
thirty-four feet high. I occupied myself
the next day with preparing a report to
be sent to the Colonial Secretary. My
brother went off to the boat and brought
ashore the things we required. We were
busy on the following days packing up
and shipping things not required for the
trip to Adelaide, and I gave the master
of the Adur instructions to sail with
all despatch for Fremantle.
The
following report, which I sent back by
the Adur, describes the progress then
made with somewhat more detail than in
my Journal:--
Port
Eucla, 7th July, 1870.
SIR,
It
is with much pleasure I have the honour
to report, for the information of his
Excellency the Governor, the safe
arrival here of the expedition entrusted
to my guidance, as also the meeting of
the schooner Adur.
Leaving Esperance Bay on the 9th of May,
we travelled in an easterly direction,
over plains generally poorly grassed, to
Israelite Bay (situated in latitude 33
degrees 36 minutes 51 seconds South, and
longitude 123 degrees 48 minutes East),
which we reached on the 18th May, and
met the Adur, according to instructions
issued to the master. Here we recruited
our horses and had them re-shod, put the
pack-saddles in good order, packed
provisions, etc., and gave the master of
the Adur very strict and detailed
instructions to proceed to Eucla
Harbour, and await my arrival until the
2nd of September, when, if I did not
reach there, he was to bury provisions
under the Black Beacon and sail for
Fremantle, via Israelite and Esperance
Bays. Everything being in readiness, on
the 30th of May we left Israelite Bay en
route for Eucla, carrying with us three
months' provisions. Keeping near the
coast for sixty miles, having taken a
flying trip inland on my way, we reached
the sand-patches a little to the west of
Point Culver, in latitude 32 degrees 55
minutes 34 seconds South, and longitude
124 degrees 25 minutes East, on the 2nd
of June.
On
the 3rd went on a flying trip to the
North-East, returning on the 4th along
the cliffs and Point Culver. I found the
country entirely destitute of permanent
water, but, after leaving the coast a
few miles, to be, in places, beautifully
grassed. On the coast near the cliffs it
was very rocky, and there was neither
feed nor water. Finding there was no
chance of permanent water being found,
that the only water in the country was
in small rocky holes--and those very
scarce indeed--and the feed being very
bad at Point Culver, I determined, after
very mature consideration, to attempt at
all hazards to reach the water shown on
Mr. Eyre's track in longitude 126
degrees 24 minutes East, or 140 miles
distant.
In
accordance with these arrangements, on
the 7th day of June started on our
journey, carrying over thirty gallons of
water on three of our riding horses, and
taking it in turns walking. Travelled
about North-East for four days, which
brought us to latitude 32 degrees 11
minutes South, and longitude 125 degrees
37 minutes East, finding, during that
time, in rocky holes, sufficient water
to give each horse two gallons. On the
fifth day we were more fortunate, and
were able to give them each two gallons
more, and on the sixth day (the 12th
June, Sunday) found a large rock hole
containing sufficient to give them five
gallons each, which placed us in safety,
as the water in longitude 126 degrees 24
minutes East was only thirty-two miles
distant. Continuing, we reached the
water on Tuesday, June 14th, and by
observation found it to be in latitude
32 degrees 14 minutes 50 seconds South,
and longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes
East, the variation of the compass being
about 1 degree 6 minutes easterly.
The
country passed over between Point Culver
and longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes
East, was in many places beautifully
grassed, level, without the slightest
undulation, about 300 feet above the
sea, and not very thickly wood. It
improves to the northward, being clearer
and more grassy, and the horizon to the
north, in every place where I could get
an extensive view, was as uniform and
well-defined as that of the sea. On the
route from Point Culver to longitude 126
degrees 24 minutes East, we were from
twenty to twenty-five miles from the
sea.
Recruiting ourselves and horses till the
30th, I took a flying trip to the
northward. For the first twelve miles
from the sea was through a dense and
almost impenetrable scrub, when we
reached the cliffs, and after ascending
them we came into the same description
of level country that we travelled over
from Point Culver, save that this was
more open and grassy, and became still
clearer as we proceeded north, until, at
our farthest point north, in latitude 31
degrees 33 minutes South, and longitude
126 degrees 33 minutes East, scarcely a
tree was visible, and vast plains of
grass and saltbush extended as far as
the eye could reach in every direction.
We found a little water for our horses
in rock holes. Returning, we reached
camp on June 22nd. On the 23rd we were
engaged making preparations for a start
for Eucla. In looking round camp, Tommy
Windich found the shoulder-blade of a
horse and two small pieces of leather
belonging to a packsaddle. The
shoulder-blade is no doubt the remains
of the horse Mr. Eyre was obliged to
kill for food at this spot.
On
June 24th started for Eucla, carrying,
as before, over thirty gallons of water,
and walking in turns. On the 25th found
on the top of the cliffs a large rock
hole, containing sufficient water to
give the horses as much as they
required, and on the 26th were equally
fortunate. From the 26th to the 30th we
met with scarcely any water, and our
horses appeared very distressed, more so
as the weather was very warm. On the
evening of the 30th, however, we were
again fortunate enough to find a
water-hole containing sufficient to give
them six gallons each, and were again in
safety, Eucla water being only thirty
miles distant. On the morning of the 1st
day of July we reached the cliffs, or
Hampton Range (these cliffs recede from
the sea in longitude 126 degrees 12
minutes East, and run along at the
average distance of twelve or fifteen
miles from the sea until they join it
again at Wilson's Bluff, in longitude
129 degrees East. They are very steep
and rough, and water may generally be
found in rock holes in the gorges. I,
however, wished to keep further inland,
and therefore did not follow them), and
shortly afterwards we beheld the
Wilson's Bluff and the Eucla sand-hills.
Camped for the night near the Hampton
Range, about five miles from Eucla
Harbour, and on the 2nd July, on nearing
the anchorage, discovered the schooner
Adur lying safely at anchor, which
proved by no means the least pleasing
feature to our little band of weary
travellers. Camped on west side of
Delissier sand-hills, and found water by
digging.
The
country passed over between longitude
126 degrees 24 minutes East, as a
grazing country, far surpasses anything
I have ever seen. There is nothing in
the settled portions of Western
Australia equal to it, either in extent
or quality; but the absence of permanent
water is the great drawback, and I do
not think water would be procured by
sinking, except at great depths, as the
country is at least three hundred feet
above the sea, and there is nothing to
indicate water being within an easy
depth from the surface. The country is
very level, with scarcely any
undulation, and becomes clearer as you
proceed northward.
Since leaving Cape Arid I have not seen
a gully or watercourse of any
description--a distance of 400 miles.
The
route from longitude 126 degrees 24
minutes East to Eucla was generally
about thirty miles from the sea.
The
natives met with appeared friendly and
harmless; they are entirely destitute of
clothing, and I think not very numerous.
Very
little game exists along the route; a
few kangaroos were seen, but no emus--an
almost certain sign, I believe, of the
scarcity of water.
The
health of the party has been excellent;
and I cannot speak too highly of the
manner in which each member of the
expedition has conducted himself, under
circumstances often of privation and
difficulty.
All
our horses are also in splendid
condition; and when I reflect how great
were the sufferings of the only other
Europeans who traversed this route, I
cannot but thank Almighty God who has
guarded and guided us in safety through
such a waterless region, without the
loss of even a single horse.
I am
afraid I shall not be able to get far
inland northward, unless we are favoured
with rain. We have not had any rain
since the end of April, and on that
account our difficulties have been far
greater than if it had been an ordinary
wet season.
I
intend despatching the Adur for
Fremantle to-morrow. The charter-party
has been carried out entirely to my
satisfaction. With the assistance of the
crew of the Adur I have repainted the
Red and Black Beacons. The latter had
been blown down; we, however, re-erected
it firmly again. I have also erected a
flagstaff, thirty feet high, near camp
on west side of Delissier sand-hills,
with a copper-plate nailed on it, with
its position, my name, and that of the
colony engraved on it.
We
are now within 140 miles from the
nearest Adelaide station. I will write
to you as soon as I reach there. It will
probably be a month from this date.
Trusting that the foregoing brief
account of my proceedings, as leader of
the expedition entrusted to my guidance,
may meet with the approval of his
Excellency the Governor,
I
have, etc.,
JOHN
FORREST,
Leader of Expedition to Eucla and
Adelaide.
The
Honourable the Colonial Secretary,
Perth, W.A.
We
had now accomplished rather more than
half the distance between Perth and
Adelaide, but there was still a gap of
140 miles to be bridged over. We bade
good-bye to our friends on board the
Adur, and were now thrown entirely on
our own resources. I resume the extracts
from my Journal:--
LOOKING FOR WATER.
July
8th.
Started in company with my brother and
Billy, having three riding horses and a
pack horse, to penetrate the country to
the northward. Travelled in a northerly
direction for about twenty-seven miles,
over plains generally well grassed, and
then bivouacked. From the camp only
plains were in sight, not a tree
visible. Did not meet with a drop of
water on our way, and, having brought
none, we had to do without it. This
season is too dry to attempt to cross
these vast grassy plains, and I shall
return to camp to-morrow--the attempt to
get inland without rain only exhausting
ourselves and horses to no purpose.
9th.
After collecting the horses, which had
strayed back on the tracks, we steered
in a South-South-West direction, and
reached camp a little after sundown. Did
not find any water, except about half a
gallon, during the two days, and, the
weather being warm, the horses were in a
very exhausted state when they reached
camp. Found the Adur had left yesterday
afternoon.
10th
(Sunday).
Rested at Eucla. Read Divine Service.
11th.
Osborn busy with the shoeing. Went with
Billy to Wilson's Bluff, and saw the
boundary-post between South and Western
Australia, placed by Lieutenant Douglas.
Returned at sundown.
12th.
Erected the flagstaff with the Union
Jack flying, and nailed a copper plate
to the staff, with the following
engraved on it:--
WESTERN AUSTRALIA. ERECTED BY J.
FORREST, JULY 12TH, 1870.
From
the flagstaff, Wilson's Bluff bore North
70 degrees 15 minutes East magnetic, and
the Black Beacon North 246 degrees 20
minutes East magnetic, and it is
situated in latitude 31 degrees 41
minutes 50 seconds South.
13th.
There was a total eclipse of the moon in
the morning. All busy preparing for a
start for the Head of the Bight
to-morrow. Buried a cask eight feet west
of flagstaff, containing 100 pounds
flour, 130 pounds barley, 16 new sets of
horse-shoes, shoeing nails, etc. Nailed
a plate on flagstaff, with DIG 8 FEET
WEST on it. Took a ride to the Black and
Red Beacons, to examine country round
Eucla.
14th.
Bidding farewell to Eucla and the Union
Jack, which we left on the flagstaff, we
started for the Head of the Bight,
carrying over thirty gallons of water
with us, and walking in turns. Ascended
the cliffs without difficulty, and
passed the boundary of the two colonies;
then left the sea, and, steering in an
East-North-East and North-East direction
until a little after dark, camped on a
grassy piece of country, without water
for our horses. Distance travelled about
twenty-six miles. By observation camp is
in latitude 31 degrees 30 minutes 42
seconds South, and longitude 129 degrees
20 minutes East.
SUFFERING FROM THIRST.
15th.
Started at daylight, and travelled
East-North-East for seven miles, when we
bore East over generally level country,
well grassed, but entirely destitute of
water. We camped at sundown on a grassy
rise, without water for our horses.
Distance travelled, thirty-four miles.
The horses have not had any water for
two days, and show signs of distress.
Intend starting before daylight, as
there is a good moon.
16th.
At 1 a.m. went with Billy to bring back
the horses, which had again made off.
After returning, saddled up, and at 4.50
a.m. got under way, steering a little to
the south of east in order to make the
cliffs, as there might be water in rock
holes near them. At eighteen miles came
to the sea, but could find no water. At
thirty miles saw a pile of stones, and
at thirty-three miles saw a staked
survey line. Camped on a grassy piece of
country, two miles from the sea. This is
the third day without a drop of water
for the horses, which are in a frightful
state. Gave them each four quarts from
our water-drums, and I hope, by leaving
a little after midnight, to reach the
Head of the Bight to-morrow evening, as
it is now only forty miles distant. By
observation, camp is in latitude 31
degrees 32 minutes 27 seconds South, and
longitude 130 degrees 30 minutes East.
17th.
Was obliged to get up twice to bring
back the horses, and at four o'clock
made a start. The horses were in a very
exhausted state; some having difficulty
to keep up. About noon I could descry
the land turning to the southward, and
saw, with great pleasure, we were fast
approaching the Head of the Great
Australian Bight. Reached the
sand-patches at the extreme Head of the
Bight just as the sun was setting, and
found abundance of water by digging two
feet deep in the sand. Gave the horses
as much as I considered it safe for them
to have at one time. I have never seen
horses in such a state before, and hope
never to do so again. The horses, which
four days ago were strong and in good
condition, now appeared only skeletons,
eyes sunk, nostrils dilated, and
thoroughly exhausted. Since leaving
Eucla to getting water at this spot, a
period of nearly ninety hours, they had
only been allowed one gallon of water
each, which was given them from our
water-drums. It is wonderful how well
they performed this journey; had they
not started in good condition, they
never could have done it. We all felt
very tired. During the last sixty hours
I have only had about five hours' sleep,
and have been continually in a great
state of anxiety--besides which, all
have had to walk a great deal.
SIGNS OF CIVILIZATION.
18th.
This is a great day in my journal and
journey. After collecting the horses we
followed along the beach half a mile,
when I struck North for Peelunabie well,
and at half a mile struck a cart track
from Fowler's Bay to Peelunabie. After
following it one mile and a quarter,
came to the well and old sheep-yards,
and camped. Found better water in the
sand-hills than in the well. There is a
board nailed on a pole directing to the
best water, with the following engraved
on it:
G.
Mackie, April 5th, 1865, Water [finger
pointing right] 120 yards.
Upon
sighting the road this morning, which I
had told them we should do, a loud and
continued hurrahing came from all the
party, who were overjoyed to behold
signs of civilization again; while
Billy, who was in advance with me, and
whom I had told to look out, as he would
see a road directly, which he
immediately did, began giving me great
praise for bringing them safely through
such a long journey. I certainly felt
very pleased and relieved from anxiety,
and, on reviewing the long line of march
we had performed through an uncivilized
country, was very sensible of that
protecting Providence which had guided
us safely through the undertaking.
Arrival at the Great Australian Bight.
Fresh Water found.
19th.
Steered in an easterly direction along
an old track towards Wearing's well, as
I intend going inland, instead of along
the coast to Fowler's Bay. Travelled for
sixteen miles through a barren and
thickly-wooded country, sand-hills, etc.
We camped on a small grassy flat,
without water. Being now in the settled
districts I gave over keeping watch,
which we had regularly done since the
9th of May.
20th.
Continuing for fifteen miles, we reached
a deserted well called Wearing's; it was
about 200 feet deep, and after joining
all the tether-ropes, girths, bridle
reins, halters, etc., we managed to get
up a bucket full, but after all our
trouble it was quite salt. We therefore
continued our journey South-East for
Fowler's Bay, and at four miles saw some
fresh sheep tracks, and shortly
afterwards saw the shepherd, named Jack,
who was very talkative. He told us he
had been to Swan River, and thought it
was quite as good as this place. He also
said there was a well of good water
about eight miles further on. This was a
pleasant surprise, the nearest well on
my chart being sixteen miles distant:
this was a new well sunk since the
survey. We therefore pushed on, although
our horses were very tired, and reached
the well, where there was a substantial
stone hut; met the shepherd, whose name
was Robinson. He said he knew who we
were, having heard about three months
ago that we might be expected this way.
He was as kind and obliging as it was
possible to be in his circumstances. Had
a difficulty in drawing water for the
horses, the well being nearly 200 feet
deep, and there was not a bite for the
poor creatures to eat, except a few
miles off. As it was now an hour after
dark, I turned them out, and left them
to do the best they could. The old
shepherd kept talking most of the night,
and said we looked more like people just
come from Fowler's Bay than having come
overland from Western Australia.
21st.
The horses strayed off in many
directions during the night, and they
were not all collected till after noon,
when we continued our journey for four
miles, and finding a small piece of
feed, we camped without water for the
horses. Many of the horses were in a
very critical state, and one was
completely knocked up.
22nd.
Again were delayed by the rambling of
the horses until nearly noon, when we
travelled along the road towards
Fowler's Bay. After ten miles, watered
the horses at a well called Waltabby,
and two miles further on camped, with
scarcely any feed for the horses. One of
the horses completely gave in to-day,
and we had great difficulty in getting
him to camp. By meridian altitude of
Arcturus, camp is in latitude 31 degrees
34 minutes 28 seconds South.
REACHING A STATION.
23rd.
Although the feed was short, our horses
did not stray, and after saddling up we
continued along road for two and a half
miles, and reached Colona, the head
station of Degraves and Co., of
Victoria, where we were most hospitably
received by Mr. Maiden, the manager. At
his desire camped, and turned out the
horses on a piece of feed kept for his
horses, and intend remaining over
Sunday. We accepted his kind invitation
to make ourselves his guests while we
remained. He informed me that the South
Australian Government had instructed the
mounted trooper at Fowler's Bay to
proceed to the Head of the Bight and
give us every information and assistance
in his power. I am glad we have saved
him the journey.
24th.
Rested at Colona. In the afternoon was
rather surprised at the arrival of
Police-trooper Richards and party, who
were on their way to try and find out
our whereabouts. He handed me a circular
for perusal, stating that anything I
required would be paid for by the South
Australian Government.
25th.
Left Colona, accompanied by
Police-trooper Richards and party. Mr.
Maiden also accompanied us a few miles,
when he returned, bearing with him my
sincere thanks for his kindness to
myself and party. After travelling
eleven miles, we reached the hospitable
residence of Messrs. Heathcote and
Mathers, where we stayed to dinner, and,
although pressed to stay, pushed on
seven miles, and camped at a well called
Pintumbra.
26th.
Rested at Pintumbra, as there was good
feed for our tired and hungry horses.
Police-trooper Richards and party also
remained with us.
AT
FOWLERS BAY.
27th.
Travelled towards Fowler's Bay, and at
ten miles reached Yallata, the residence
of Mr. Armstrong, where we had dinner,
and afterwards reached Fowler's Bay and
put up at the Police-station.
28th
to 31st.
Remained at Fowler's Bay, recruiting
ourselves and horses, and wrote the
following letters to the Honourable the
Colonial Secretary, Western Australia,
and to his Excellency Sir James
Fergusson, Governor of South
Australia:--
Fowler's Bay, 29th July, 1870.
SIR,
I
have the honour to report, for the
information of his Excellency the
Governor, the safe arrival here of the
exploring expedition under my command,
and beg to give you a brief outline of
our proceedings since the departure of
the schooner Adur from Port Eucla.
On
the 8th of July, started on a flying
trip north from Eucla, with fourteen
days' provisions, but was unable to
penetrate more than thirty miles (which
was over clear open plains of grass,
etc., scarcely a tree visible), on
account of the scarcity of water, not
meeting with a drop of water on the
whole journey. Returned to Eucla on the
9th, and, as summer had apparently set
in, and there appeared no likelihood of
rain, I decided to at once start for
Fowler's Bay and Adelaide.
On
the 14th, therefore, we started,
carrying with us about thirty gallons of
water. After great privation to our
horses, and not meeting with a drop of
water for 135 miles, by travelling day
and night we reached the Head of the
Bight on the evening of the 17th July,
and found abundance of water by digging
in the sand-hills.
Our
horses had been ninety hours without a
drop of water, and many of us were very
weary from long marching without sleep.
Many of the horses could scarcely walk,
and a few were delirious; they, however,
all managed to carry their loads. They
have not, however, yet recovered, but
with a few days' rest I hope to see them
well again. There being very little feed
at the Head of the Bight we continued
our journey, and on the 23rd July
reached Colona (head station of Degraves
and Co.), where we met Police-trooper
Richards, who was on his way to the Head
of the Bight to meet us, in accordance
with instructions from his Excellency
Sir James Fergusson.
Leaving Colona on the 25th, we reached
Fowler's Bay on the 27th July, all well.
We
are now about 600 miles from Adelaide.
Our route will be through the Gawler
Ranges, skirting the south end of Lake
Gairdner, and thence to Port Augusta and
Adelaide, which we shall probably reach
in five or six weeks from date.
By
this mail I have written to his
Excellency Sir James Fergusson,
apprising him of our safe arrival, as
well as giving him a brief account of
our journey. According to present
arrangements we shall, at latest, be in
Perth by the October mail.
Trusting that these proceedings may meet
with the approval of his Excellency the
Governor, I have, etc.,
JOHN
FORREST,
Leader of Expedition to Eucla and
Adelaide.
The
Honourable the Colonial Secretary,
Perth, Western Australia.
Fowler's Bay, 29th July, 1870.
SIR,
In
accordance with my instructions from the
Government of Western Australia, I have
the honour to report, for the
information of his Excellency Sir James
Fergusson, that the exploring expedition
organized by that Government and placed
under my command, has reached this place
in safety.
With
his Excellency's permission, I will give
a brief account of our journey since
leaving Perth.
OFFICIAL REPORT.
Leaving Perth on the 30th March, we
reached Esperance Bay, the station of
the Messrs. Dempster, on the 25th April,
and remained to recruit our horses until
the 9th May, when we continued in an
easterly direction for about 130 miles,
and reached Israelite Bay, in latitude
33 degrees 37 minutes South and
longitude 123 degrees 48 minutes East,
where we met a coasting vessel with our
supplies, etc.
Left
Israelite Bay on May 30th, and reached
the water shown on Mr. Eyre's track in
longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes East on
the 14th June, depending wholly on rock
water-holes during the journey. Here we
recruited and made a trip inland for
fifty miles, finding the country to be
very clear and well grassed, but
entirely destitute of permanent water.
Leaving longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes
East on 24th June, we reached Eucla on
the 2nd July, depending again solely on
rock water-holes, our horses often being
in great want of water. At Eucla we
again met the coaster with supplies,
etc.
After despatching the coaster on her
return to Swan River, attempted to get
inland north of Eucla; but, owing to the
scarcity of water and the dryness of the
season, was unable to get more than
thirty miles inland. I therefore
concluded to continue the journey
towards Adelaide, and accordingly left
Eucla on July 14th, reaching the Head of
the Great Australian Bight on the
evening of the 17th, after a very hard
and fatiguing journey, without a drop of
water for our horses for ninety hours,
in which time we travelled 138 miles.
Men
and horses were in a very weary state
when we reached the water, which we
found by digging in the sand-hills at
the extreme Head of the Bight.
Continuing, we reached Fowler's Bay on
the 27th July.
From
longitude 124 degrees 25 minutes East to
Port Eucla, in longitude 128 degrees 53
minutes East, our route was from twenty
to thirty miles from the sea, and in the
whole of that distance we only procured
permanent water in one spot, namely that
shown on Mr. Eyre's track in longitude
126 degrees 24 minutes East.
On
our route we passed over many millions
of acres of grassy country, but I am
sorry to say I believe entirely
destitute of permanent water. The
natives met with were friendly, but to
us altogether unintelligible. The health
of my party has been excellent, and we
have reached this place without losing a
single horse.
Before reaching Fowler's Bay, we were
met by Police-trooper Richards, who was
on his way to meet us, in accordance
with instructions from his Excellency. I
am truly thankful for this, as he has
been of great service to us, and has
been very attentive to our requirements.
I hope to reach Adelaide in five weeks
from date. My route will be through the
Gawler Ranges to Port Augusta, and
thence to Adelaide.
Trusting that this short account of our
journey may not be wholly uninteresting
to his Excellency, I have, etc.,
JOHN
FORREST,
Leader of Expedition from Western
Australia.
The
Private Secretary, Government House,
Adelaide, South Australia.
August 1st.
Left Fowler's Bay, accompanied by
Police-trooper Richards, en route for
Port Augusta. Travelled fourteen miles
in about an East-North-East direction
and camped. Rained lightly this evening.
2nd.
Reached Pinong station. Distance
travelled, thirty miles. Passed several
huts and wells. The whole journey was
over most beautifully-grassed country.
3rd.
Left Pinong, and, after travelling
thirty miles, reached a spot called
Athena; then camped, leaving Charra
station about seven miles to the
southward. Passed a few huts and wells
during the day.
4th.
At seventeen miles reached Denial Bay,
when we turned off towards Hosken and
Broadbent's stations, and at thirteen
miles further camped on a very grassy
rise, with two small rock water-holes,
called Merking. By meridian altitude of
a Lyrae (Vega), found it to be in
latitude 32 degrees 12 minutes 36
seconds South.
PANEY STATION.
5th.
After travelling eight miles, came to a
deserted station of Hosken and
Broadbent's, and found abundance of
water in a rock water-hole called
Chillandee. As the horses were very
tired, and there was splendid feed for
them, we camped here for the remainder
of the day.
6th.
Left Chillandee, and after travelling
twenty-six miles, passed Madebuckela,
the homestead of Mr. Hosken, where we
camped at a deserted hut, with splendid
feed and water for the horses.
7th.
Travelled towards Gawler Ranges for
thirteen miles, and camped at a spot
called Conkabeena, from which the ranges
were clearly visible.
8th.
Continuing in an easterly direction for
twelve miles, we reached Wollular, a
granite hill with plenty of water on the
rocks; after which proceeded due east
for twelve miles, through dense thickets
and sandy hills, when we came on a small
patch of grassy land and camped, Mount
Centre bearing North 95 degrees East
magnetic.
9th.
Continuing towards Mount Centre for
eighteen miles, over a succession of
salt lakes and very sandy hills and
scrub, we reached a road making a little
farther north, which was followed, and
after travelling five miles came to
Narlibby, and camped on most beautiful
feed.
10th.
After taking wrong roads and going a
good deal out of our way, we reached
Paney station and camped at the
police-station.
11th
and 12th.
Rested at Paney, as the horses were very
tired, and there was splendid feed for
them. Police-trooper Richards intends
returning to-morrow to Fowler's Bay. He
has given us every assistance in his
power, and deserves our very sincere
thanks for his kindness and attention.
13th
to 17th.
Travelling towards Port Augusta,
accompanied for half the distance by
Police trooper O'Shanahan, from Paney
station.
18th.
Reached Port Augusta. Telegraphed to his
Excellency Sir James Fergusson,
informing him of our arrival. Camped
five miles from Port Augusta, at a small
township named Stirling.
19th.
Received telegram from his Excellency
Sir James Fergusson, congratulating us
on our success. Camped a few miles from
Mount Remarkable.
20th.
Passed through Melrose, and on the 23rd
reached Clare, where I had the pleasure
of meeting Mr. John Roe, son of the
Honourable Captain Roe, our respected
Surveyor-General.
On
August 24th reached Riverton, and on the
25th Gawler. On the 26th we arrived at
Salisbury, twelve miles from Adelaide.
Through all these towns we have been
most cordially received, and I shall
never forget the attention and kindly
welcome received on the journey through
South Australia.
RECEPTION AT ADELAIDE.
On
the 27th August we left Salisbury, and
for an account of our journey from there
to Adelaide I cannot do better than
insert an extract from the South
Australian Register of August 27th,
1870:--
Public Welcome at Adelaide.
"On
Saturday morning the band of explorers
from Western Australia, under the
leadership of Mr. Forrest, made their
entrance into Adelaide. They left
Salisbury at half-past nine o'clock, and
when within a few miles of the city were
met by Inspector Searcy and one or two
other members of the police force. Later
on the route they were met by an escort
of horsemen, who had gone out to act as
a volunteer escort. At Government House
Gate a crowd of persons assembled, who
gave them a hearty cheer as they rode
up. The whole party at once rode up to
Government House, where they were
received by his Excellency, who was
introduced to all the members of the
expedition, and spent a quarter of an
hour in conversation with Mr. Forrest,
and in examining with interest the
horses and equipments, which all showed
signs of the long and severe journey
performed. Wine having been handed
round, the party withdrew, and were
again greeted at Government Gate by
hearty cheers from the crowd, which now
numbered several hundreds. They then
proceeded by way of Rundle Street to the
quarters assigned them at the police
barracks. The men are to remain at the
barracks, and the officers are to be
entertained at the City of Adelaide
Club."
From
August 28th to September 12th we
remained in Adelaide, having been most
kindly received by all with whom we came
in contact. We saw as much of the
country as possible. I disposed of my
horses and equipment by public auction;
then left in the steamer Alexandra with
the whole of my party on the 12th,
reaching King George's Sound on the 17th
at 1 a.m. Left King George's Sound on
the 19th, and arrived in Perth on the
27th, where we were most cordially
welcomed by his Excellency the Governor
and the citizens of Perth, having been
absent 182 days.
In
the foregoing I have attempted to give a
faithful and correct account of our
proceedings, and, in conclusion, beg to
make a few remarks respecting the
character and the capabilities of the
country travelled over.
In
about longitude 124 degrees East the
granite formation ends, at least on and
near the coast; but from longitude 124
degrees to the Head of the Bight, a
distance of over 400 miles, there is no
change in the formation, being limestone
and high table land the whole distance.
The
portion most suited for settlement is, I
believe, between longitude 126 degrees
12 minutes East and longitude 129
degrees East, near Eucla harbour, or, in
other words, the country to the north of
the Hampton Range--the country north of
the range being most beautifully
grassed, and I believe abundance of
water could be procured anywhere under
the range by sinking twenty or thirty
feet. There is also under the same range
a narrow strip of fine grassy country
for the whole length of the range,
namely about 160 miles. I have every
confidence that, should the country be
settled, it would prove a remunerative
speculation, and, if water can be
procured on the table land, would be the
finest pastoral district of Western
Australia.
CONCLUSION.
Before I conclude, I have the pleasing
duty to record my entire appreciation of
every member of the party. I need not
particularize, as one and all had the
interest and welfare of the expedition
at heart, and on no occasion uttered a
single murmur.
Finally, sir, my best and most sincere
thanks are due to his Excellency
Governor Weld for the very efficient
manner in which the expedition was
equipped. It is chiefly owing to the
great zeal and desire of his Excellency
that I should have everything necessary
that the success of the enterprise is
attributable.
I
have, etc.,
JOHN
FORREST,
Leader of Expedition.
The
Honourable F.P. Barlee, Esquire,
Colonial Secretary, Western Australia.
CHAPTER 4.
RECEPTION AT ADELAIDE AND RETURN TO
PERTH.
Departure from Gawler and Arrival at
Adelaide.
Appearance of the Party.
Public Entrance.
Complimentary Banquet.
Grant by the Government of Western
Australia.
ARRIVAL AT ADELAIDE.
On
Saturday, the 27th of August, we reached
Adelaide. On the previous day we had
left Gawler for Salisbury, where we
rested until the following morning, when
we started at half-past nine o'clock for
Adelaide. A few miles from there we were
met by the chief inspector of police and
some troopers sent to escort us, and
soon afterwards a volunteer escort of
horsemen gave us a friendly welcome. We
were heartily cheered as we entered the
town and then rode to Government House,
where we were received in the most
cordial manner by the Governor, Sir
James Fergusson. After a brief time
spent in examining the horses (which
were all the worse for the long and
arduous journey) also the equipments,
and in partaking of refreshments, we
left the Government House, the people
cheering lustily, and passed through
King William and Rundle Streets on the
way to the City of Adelaide Club. My
brother and self stayed there while in
town, and the others at the police
barracks, where man and horse enjoyed
the much-needed rest and refreshment.
It
may interest the reader to quote from
the South Australian Advertiser the
description of our appearance when we
first entered Adelaide: "It was a
genuine Australian bush turnout, the
trappings, water-drums, and other
necessaries being admirably adapted for
the purpose. The horses looked somewhat
the worse for wear; but, considering the
immense distance that they have
travelled, their condition was not to be
complained of, and a few weeks in the
Government paddocks will put them in
capital condition. The officers and men,
both white and black, look the picture
of health, and their satisfaction at
having completed their long and arduous
task is beaming from their
countenances."
Whatever our countenances may have
expressed, I know we felt an intense
satisfaction at having been enabled to
discharge the duty we had undertaken.
On
the evening of the 3rd of September Sir
James Fergusson entertained us at
dinner, and many old colonists who, in
their time, had been engaged in
exploring expeditions, were among the
guests. Mr. Barlee, the Colonial
Secretary of Western Australia, who
arrived in Adelaide a day or two after
we had reached it, was present with me
at the luncheon on the occasion of the
inauguration of the Northern Railway
Extension at Kooringa. In replying to
the toast of The Visitors, he took the
opportunity of thanking the South
Australian people and the Government for
the courtesy and kindness extended to me
and the members of my party, who, he
said, had carried out the instructions
so successfully and in a manner which
made him proud of the colony to which he
belonged. He hoped that the line of
communication that had been opened might
soon lead to much better and closer
intercommunication between the colonies.
With
characteristic consideration and
kindness Governor Weld, immediately on
receiving my report from Eucla,
addressed a private letter to my father,
congratulating him on my success.
RECEPTION AT PERTH.
Anxious to lose no time in reporting
myself to my Government, I only remained
in South Australia about a fortnight,
and then left for Perth in the Branch
mail steamer, and arrived there on
Tuesday, the 27th of September. The City
Council determined to give us a public
reception and present an address. A
four-in-hand drag was despatched to
bring us into the city, and a
procession, consisting of several
private carriages, a number of the
citizens on horseback, and the volunteer
band, escorted us. The city flag was
flying at the Town Hall, and there was a
liberal display of similar tokens from
private dwellings. The Governor and his
aide-de-camp came out five miles to meet
us, and accompanied us to the beginning
of the city, where he handed us over to
the Council, meeting us again at the
Government offices. A crowd had
collected in front of the Government
offices, where we were to alight, and
amid cheering and general hand-shaking
we entered the enclosure.
Here
his Excellency the Governor received us
with warm congratulations, and the City
Council presented the address, which was
read by the chairman, Mr. Glyde. He
said:--
"Mr.
Forrest,
"In
the name of the citizens I have the very
great pleasure to bid you a cordial
welcome on your safe return to Perth. We
sincerely congratulate yourself and
party on the success which has attended
your adventurous expedition overland to
Adelaide. It must have been gratifying
to you to have been selected to lead
this expedition, and to follow such
explorers as Captain Roe, Gregory,
Austin, and others, of whom West
Australia may well be proud. Your
expedition, however, has an additional
interest from the fact that its leader
and members were born in the colony. I
trust, sir, that at no distant date you
may have the satisfaction to see the
advantages realized which the route
opened by your expedition is calculated
to effect."
I
had had no reason to expect such a
marked official reception, and could
only express the pleasure I experienced
in knowing that the colonists so fully
appreciated my efforts to carry out
successfully the task confided to me.
The
Governor also offered his
congratulations, and three cheers having
been given the party, and three more for
the Governor, we left for our quarters
highly gratified with the reception. His
Excellency gave a large dinner-party to
celebrate our return, and on Monday, the
24th of October, a public demonstration
of welcome was afforded by a banquet to
which we were invited by the citizens.
The following is a report from the Perth
journal:--
COMPLIMENTARY BANQUET TO MR. JOHN
FORREST.
On
Monday evening last a Complimentary
Banquet was given to Mr. Forrest, the
explorer, at the Horse and Groom tavern.
About seventy sat down to dinner, among
whom were his Excellency the Governor,
the Private Secretary, the Colonial
Secretary, the Surveyor-General, Captain
Roe, and many of the leading inhabitants
of Perth and Fremantle. The chair was
taken by Captain Roe. On his right was
his Excellency the Governor, and on his
left the guest of the evening--Mr.
Forrest. The vice-chair was filled by
Mr. Landor. After the cloth had been
removed, the chairman, Captain Roe, rose
and proposed the Queen, a lady whom the
people could not consider without being
proud of the sovereign by whom they were
governed.
The
Chairman said he rose to propose another
toast, which, he trusted, was not always
given as a matter of course, but with
heartfelt satisfaction. It was the
health of the Heir Apparent to the
Throne. (Cheers). The Prince of Wales
will, it is hoped, one day fill the
throne of his illustrious mother--may
that day be far distant!--but, when that
day does arrive, may he display the
exemplary virtues of his illustrious
mother and the sterling qualities that
distinguished his great father!
The
Chairman, in proposing the next toast,
His Excellency the Governor, said he had
some difficulty in doing so,
particularly as the subject of it was on
his right hand that evening; yet he
considered the gratitude of the
colonists was due to her Majesty's
Government for selecting a gentleman who
was so well qualified to benefit the
colony. He believed his Excellency was
the man to drag the colony out of the
hole (cheers); and he believed his
Excellency was the man to attain for us
that prosperity we so much desired
(hear, hear); but we must do our utmost
to support him in the effort to secure
it. It was impossible for any man to
perform one hundredth part of what was
wanted of him; yet he believed his
Excellency would do all in his power to
benefit the colony in every way. Let
every one give his Excellency that
strenuous support necessary to attain
prosperity, and we would attain success.
He trusted that when the term of his
Excellency's sojourn amongst us had
arrived, he would remember with pleasure
the days he had spent in Western
Australia. The toast was drunk with
cheers and enthusiasm.
His
Excellency the Governor, who was
received most cordially, rose to thank
them for the very kind manner in which
they had received the toast which had
been proposed by the worthy chairman.
The chairman was right in saying that
they might rely upon his doing his best
for the benefit of the country, but they
must not be disappointed; he could not
do everything, but they might depend
upon it he would do what he considered
right for the people and the colony,
without the fear or favour of any. But
"many men of many minds," as the old
school copy says. People thought widely
different, but he would do his best for
the welfare of the colony. (Cheers). He
did not, however, rise to speak of
himself; the toast that evening was in
honour of Mr. Forrest, and at the
present moment, viewing the state of
Europe, looking at the fact that at this
very time two of the largest nations in
the world are carrying on a deadly
strife; that on either side deeds of
daring have been done, which we all
admire, and by which we are all
fascinated--and why? Because the human
mind admired daring and enterprise. But
war devastated the world--war meant
misery, destitution, widows, orphans,
and destruction, yet we behold all these
with a species of fascination. But not
only in time of war, but at a period of
peace, are the highest feelings of human
nature and the noblest instincts of
mankind brought out. It was in a spirit
of daring, of self-sacrifice, of love of
fame and science, that induced the
gentleman, whose health will be duly
proposed to you this evening, to
undertake the task he has so
successfully completed. The same
motives, no doubt, led the warrior into
the battle-field, as the explorer into a
new and unknown country. He, like the
warrior, combated dangers regardless to
self. Peace, then, has triumphs as well
as war. Mr. Forrest and his party well
deserve the triumphs they have secured
in their successful journey from this
colony to Adelaide. The benefits
conferred on the colony can best be
appreciated by those who have the
greatest capacity of looking into
futurity, and as long as Australia has a
history, the names of Mr. Forrest and
his companions will be borne down with
honour. To himself it will be a source
of pleasure to know that the first year
of his administration will be rendered
memorable by the exertion, zeal, and
enterprise of Mr. Forrest. His
Excellency resumed his seat amidst loud
and continued applause.
Captain Roe said a very pleasing duty
now devolved upon him; it was to
recognize services well done and
faithfully performed. It was always
satisfactory to have our services
recognized, and the leader of the
expedition over a distance of more than
2000 miles, from Perth to Adelaide, so
successfully, was deserving of esteem.
That expedition had brought the colony
into note, and the good results from it
would soon be apparent. He personally
felt more than he could say on the
subject. He felt more in his heart than
he could express in words. He trusted
that the success of Forrest and his
party would be a solace to him in his
latest day, and that in their latter
days they would look back with pride to
the energy and pluck they displayed in
their younger. He called upon them to
drink The health and success of Mr.
Forrest and his companions during life.
(Loud and continued cheering.)
Mr.
Barlee: One more cheer for the
absentees--Mr. Forrest's companions.
(Immense cheering.)
A
Voice: One cheer more for the black
fellows. (Applause.)
Mr.
Forrest, who was received with
enthusiasm, said he felt quite unequal
to the task of responding to the toast
which had been so ably and feelingly
proposed by Captain Roe, and so kindly
received by his fellow-colonists. He was
extremely gratified to find that his
services had been so highly appreciated,
and were so pleasing to his friends and
fellow-colonists. He was much flattered
at the kind way in which himself and his
party had been received by his
Excellency Governor Fergusson and the
people of South Australia; but he must
say he was much better pleased at the
reception he received from his
Excellency Governor Weld and the
citizens of Perth on his return. He was
sorry he did not see round the table his
companions of the expedition--some had
gone out of town--but he must say that
during the whole of their long and
severe march, oftentimes without water,
not one refused to do his duty or
flinched in the least for a single
moment. On the part of himself and his
companions, he sincerely thanked them
for the very kind manner in which they
had drunk their health. (Great
applause.)
Mr.
Landor rose and said he had a toast to
propose--it was the Members of the
Legislative Council--and in doing so he
would like to make a few observations
upon the old. That evening they had had
the pleasure of hearing one of the
oldest of the Council, one who had seen
more trial and suffering than any other,
and to whom the grateful task fell that
evening of introducing to you one who
was new in travel; and, while admiring
that act, he could not but call to mind
the hardships that that gentleman had
endured in former days. In times gone by
parties were not so well provisioned as
they were now, and he remembered the
time when Captain Roe, short of
provisions, discovered a nest of
turkey's eggs, and, to his
consternation, on placing them in the
pan found chickens therein. But things
have altered. Captain Roe belonged to an
old Council, and it is of the new he
proposed speaking. From the new Council
great things are expected, and of the
men who have been selected a good deal
might be hoped. We all wanted progress.
We talked of progress; but progress,
like the philosopher's stone, could not
be easily attained. He hoped and
believed the gentlemen who had been
elected would do their best to try to
push the colony along. He trusted the
gentlemen going into Council would not,
like the French, get the colony into a
hole; but, if they did, he trusted they
would do their best to get it out of the
hole. What the colony looked for was,
that every man who went into the Council
would do his duty. He had much pleasure
in proposing the new members of Council
with three times three.
Mr.
Carr begged to express his thanks for
the very flattering manner in which the
toast of the new Council had been
proposed and seconded. As a proof of the
confidence reposed in them by their
constituents, he could assure them that
they would faithfully discharge their
duties to them in Parliament, and work
for the good of the colony generally.
(Cheers.) Again thanking them for the
honour done the members of the new
Council, Mr. Carr resumed his seat
amidst great applause.
Mr.
Leake (who, on rising, was supposed to
follow Mr. Carr) said his rising was not
important. As the next toast fell to his
lot, he would ask them to charge their
glasses. The toast that was placed in
his hands was to propose the health of
his friend, Mr. Barlee, the Colonial
Secretary. He trusted they would join
him in giving Mr. Barlee a hearty
welcome after his travels in foreign
parts. Mr. Barlee started on his journey
with the approval of the entire colony,
and that the acts of the Government had
always the approval of the colonists was
more than could be said at all times.
(Laughter.) Mr. Barlee's visit to the
other colonies must have been
beneficial, and he trusted Mr. Barlee
would that evening give them his
experience of the other colonies. We
have not had an opportunity of hearing
of Mr. Barlee, or what he has done since
he was in Adelaide. In Adelaide Sir J.
Morphett, the Speaker of the House of
Assembly, had said that Mr. Barlee was a
hard-working man, and that was a good
deal to say for a man in this part of
the world. (Loud laughter.) Mr. Barlee,
no doubt, would that evening give them a
history of his travels, and tell them
what he had done in Adelaide, Melbourne,
and Sydney. Mr. Barlee was a proven
friend of the colonists and of West
Australia. He would ask them to join him
in drinking the health of Mr. Barlee
with three hearty cheers. (Drunk with
enthusiasm.)
Mr.
Barlee, who on rising was received with
unbounded applause, said it would be
impossible for him to conceal the fact
that he was much pleased at the hearty
manner in which his health had been
proposed and received that evening. He
did not require to leave the colony to
know the good feeling of his
fellow-colonists for him, nor to acquire
testimony as to his quality as a public
officer. There was one matter, however,
he very much regretted, and that was
that he was not present at the ovation
given by the people of South Australia
to Mr. Forrest and his party. Mr.
Forrest had passed through Adelaide one
day before his arrival. Mr. Forrest and
his party had attracted attention not
only in South Australia, but also, as he
found, in all the other Australian
colonies. Having done so much, we were
expected to do more in the way of
opening up the large tract of country
that had been discovered. It was our
duty to assure the other colonies that
the country would carry stock, and stock
would be forthcoming. If Mr. Forrest in
former days established his fame as an
explorer, his late expedition only
proves that he must commence de novo. Of
the modesty and bearing of Mr. Forrest
and his party in South Australia he
could not speak too highly. There was,
however, one exception, and that was his
friend Windich (native). He was the man
who had done everything; he was the man
who had brought Mr. Forrest to Adelaide,
and not Mr. Forrest him. He (Mr. Barlee)
was in his estimation below par to come
by a steamer, and he walked across
(laughter); and it was an act of
condescension that Windich even looked
upon him. (Great laughter.) He was quite
aware Mr. Leake, in asking him to give
an account of his travels in foreign
parts, never seriously intended it. If
he did, he would only keep them until
to-morrow morning. He would say that his
was a trip of business, and not
pleasure, and hard work he had. Morning
and night was he at work, and he trusted
he would be spared to see the results of
some of his efforts to benefit West
Australia. (Loud cheers.) He considered,
what with our lead and copper-mines, our
Jarrah coal-mines, and the prospect of
an auriferous country being found, a new
era was dawning on the colony. (Cheers.)
For the first time in the last sixteen
years he had the pleasure of drinking
that evening the health of the members
of the Legislative Assembly. He was not
yet a member of that Council, but it was
probable he would be a member, and have
important duties to discharge therein.
He was proud to learn the quiet and
orderly manner in which the elections
had been conducted, and the good feeling
and harmony that existed on all sides,
and to learn that the defeated
candidates were the first to
congratulate the successful ones on
their nomination. He sincerely trusted
that the same quiet good feeling and
harmony would remain and guide the
Council in their deliberations
hereafter.
Other complimentary toasts having been
duly honoured, the company broke up.
While the citizens of Perth were thus
exhibiting encouraging approval of our
exertions, official recognition, in a
practical form, was not wanting. On the
6th of October, Captain Roe forwarded to
me the following communication:--
Surveyor-General's Office, Perth,
6th
October, 1870.
Sir,
Having submitted to the Governor your
report of the safe return to
head-quarters of the overland expedition
to Eucla and Adelaide, entrusted to your
leadership, I have much pleasure in
forwarding to you a copy of a minute in
which his Excellency has been pleased to
convey his full appreciation of your
proceedings, and of the judgment and
perseverance displayed in your
successful conduct of the enterprise.
In
these sentiments I cordially
participate, and, in accordance with the
wish expressed in the minute, I beg you
will convey to the other members of the
expedition the thanks of his Excellency
for their co-operation and general
conduct.
OFFICIAL REWARDS.
As a
further recognition of the services of
the party, his Excellency has been
pleased to direct that the sum of Two
Hundred Pounds be distributed amongst
them, in the following proportions,
payable at the Treasury, namely:--
To
the Leader of the expedition...75
pounds.
To
the Second in command...50 pounds.
To
H. McLarty and R. Osborne, 25 pounds
each...50 pounds.
To
the Aborigines, Windich and Billy, 12
pounds 10 shillings....25 pounds.
Total 200 pounds.
I
am, Sir, your obedient servant,
J.S.
ROE, Surveyor-General.
John
Forrest, Esquire,
Leader of Expedition, etc., etc.
The
following is the minute referred to in
the above:--
HONOURABLE SURVEYOR-GENERAL,
I
beg that you will convey to Mr. John
Forrest, leader of the Eucla expedition,
the expression of my appreciation of the
zeal, judgment, and perseverance which
he has displayed in the successful
conduct of the enterprise committed to
his charge. Great credit is also due to
the second in command, and to every
member of the party. All have done their
duty well, and to them also I desire to
render my thanks.
It
is with much pleasure that, with the
advice of my Executive Council, I
authorize a gratuity of 200 pounds, to
be divided in the proportions you have
submitted to me.
(Signed) FRED. A. WELD.
1st
October, 1870.
It
will be remembered that the York
Agricultural Society had previously
proposed an overland expedition, but had
not succeeded in obtaining official
sanction, it being then believed that
Eucla could be best approached from the
sea. After my return the Society held a
meeting, at which his Excellency the
Governor was present, when my report of
the expedition was received with every
mark of approval of my labours.
CHAPTER 5.
THIRD EXPEDITION. FROM THE WEST COAST TO
THE TELEGRAPH LINE.
Proposal to undertake a New Expedition.
Endeavour to explore the Watershed of
the Murchison.
Expeditions by South Australian
Explorers.
My Journal.
Fight with the Natives.
Finding traces of Mr. Gosse's Party.
The Telegraph Line reached.
Arrival at Perth Station.
The
success which had attended my previous
expeditions, and the great encouragement
received from the Government and public
of each colony, made me wish to
undertake another journey for the
purpose of ascertaining whether a route
from Western Australia to the advanced
settlements of the Southern colony was
practicable. I also hoped to contribute,
if possible, towards the solution of the
problem, What is the nature of the
interior? My first journey, when I
succeeded in penetrating for about 600
miles into the unknown desert of Central
Australia, had convinced me that,
although there might, and doubtless
would, be considerable difficulties to
be encountered, there were no
insuperable obstacles except a probable
failure in the supply of water. That
certainly was the most formidable of all
the difficulties that would no doubt
have to be encountered; but on the
previous journey the scarcity of water
had been endured, not without privation
and suffering, but without any very
serious result. At any rate, the
expedition I desired to undertake
appeared to be of an extremely
interesting character. It might
contribute to the knowledge of an
immense tract of country of which hardly
anything was known; it might also be the
means of opening up new districts, and
attaining results of immense importance
to the colonies. Perhaps, too, I was
animated by a spirit of adventure--not
altogether inexcusable--and, having been
successful in my previous journeys, was
not unnaturally desirous of carrying on
the work of exploration.
A
NEW EXPEDITION PROPOSED.
In
1871 an expedition went out to the
eastward of Perth under command of my
brother, Mr. A. Forrest, in search of
fresh pastoral country. It was a very
good season, but the expedition was too
late in starting. It succeeded in
reaching latitude 31 degrees South,
longitude 123 degrees 37 minutes East,
and afterwards struck South-South-East
towards the coast; then, with
considerable difficulty, it reached
Mount Ragged and the Thomas River, and,
continuing westerly, got as far as
Esperance Bay, the homestead of the
Messrs. Dempster. This expedition
discovered a considerable tract of good
country, some of which has been taken up
and stocked. It was equipped on very
economical principles, and did not cost
more than 300 pounds.
The
leader had been previously with me as
second in command on the journey to
Adelaide in 1870, and afterwards
accompanied me in 1874 from the west
coast through the centre of the western
part of Australia to the telegraph line
between Adelaide and Port Darwin.
He
received great credit from the
Government for the energy and
perseverance displayed on this
expedition--a character borne out by
future services as second in command
with me.
In
July, 1872, I addressed the following
letter to the Honourable Malcolm Fraser,
the Surveyor-General:--
Western Australia, Perth,
July
12th, 1872.
SIR,
I
have the honour to lay before you, for
the consideration of his Excellency the
Governor, a project I have in view for
the further exploration of Western
Australia.
My
wish is to undertake an expedition, to
start early next year from Champion Bay,
follow the Murchison to its source, and
then continue in an east and north-east
direction to the telegraph line now
nearly completed between Adelaide and
Port Darwin; after this we would either
proceed north to Port Darwin or south to
Adelaide.
The
party would consist of four white and
two black men, with twenty horses, well
armed and provisioned for at least six
months.
The
total cost of the expedition would be
about 600 pounds, of which sum I hope to
be able to raise, by subscriptions,
about 200 pounds.
The
horses will be furnished by the
settlers, many having already been
promised me.
The
geographical results of such an
expedition would necessarily be very
great; it would be the finishing stroke
of Australian discovery; would be sure
to open new pastoral country; and, if we
are to place any weight in the opinions
of geographers (among whom I may mention
the Reverend Tenison Woods), the
existence of a large river running
inland from the watershed of the
Murchison is nearly certain.
Referring to the map of Australia you
will observe that the proposed route is
a very gigantic, hazardous, and long
one; but, after careful consideration, I
have every confidence that, should I be
allowed to undertake it, there are
reasonable hopes of my being able to
succeed.
Minor details are purposely omitted;
but, should his Excellency favourably
entertain this proposition, I will be
too glad, as far as I am able, to give
further information on the subject.
Trusting you will be able to concur in
the foregoing suggestions.
I
have, etc.,
JOHN
FORREST.
To
this letter the Governor appended the
following memorandum:--
Mr.
J. Forrest, in a most public spirited
manner, proposes to embark in an
undertaking, the dangers of which,
though not by any means inconsiderable,
would be outweighed by the advantages
which might accrue to this colony, and
which would certainly result in a great
extension of our geographical knowledge.
Should he succeed in this journey, his
name will fitly go down to posterity as
that of the man who solved the last
remaining problem in the Australian
continent; and, whatever may come after
him, he will have been the last (and
certainly, when the means at his
disposal and the difficulties of the
undertaking are considered, by no means
the least) of the great Australian
explorers.
The
honour to be gained by him, and most of
the advantages, will ultimately fall to
this colony, which is his birth-place;
and for my own part I shall be very
proud that such a design should be
carried out during my term of office. I
wish that the means of the colony were
sufficient to warrant the Government in
proposing to defray the entire cost of
the expedition, and I think it would be
a disgrace to the colony if it did not
at least afford some aid from public
funds.
These papers will be laid before the
Legislature, and the Government will
support a vote in aid, should the
Legislature concur.
FRED. A. WELD.
July
20th, 1872.
This
memorandum showed that his Excellency
thoroughly sympathized with my reason
for desiring to undertake the
expedition. The proposition, supported
by official approval, was acceded to by
the Legislative Council, which voted the
400 pounds stated to be required in
addition to the 200 pounds which I hoped
to be able to raise by subscription.
Just
at this time, however, South Australia
was making great efforts to solve the
problem I had undertaken to attempt,
preparations being made for the
departure of three expeditions. Stuart's
great feat of crossing the continent
from south to north had been followed by
other successful efforts in the same
direction. Another result was the
establishing a line of telegraph from
Adelaide to Port Darwin. This might
therefore be considered the eastern
boundary of the unknown districts, and
moreover was the point of departure for
the South Australian expeditions in a
westerly direction. It was also the
limit I desired to reach, and, reaching
it, I should achieve the object I had so
much at heart. Of the South Australian
expeditions, only one was successful in
getting to the western colony, and that
one, led by Colonel Warburton, involved
much suffering and was comparatively
barren of practical results. Besides, as
we afterwards knew, the route selected
by him was so far to the north as not to
interfere with my project.
The
following letter to me expresses the
official estimate of the result of
Colonel Warburton's expedition:--
Surveyor-General's Office, Perth,
March 27th, 1874.
The
gist of the information I have from
Colonel Warburton may be summed up in a
few words. From the MacDermot Ranges in
South Australia to the head of the
Oakoon River (about 150 miles from the
coast), keeping between the parallels of
20 and 22 degrees south latitude, he
traversed a sterile country, in which he
states horses could not possibly
exist--they would starve, as they could
not live on the stunted scrub and
herbage which the camels managed to keep
alive on.
The
general character of the country seen
was that of a high, waterless, slightly
undulating, sandy table-land, with in
some parts sand deserts in ridges most
harassing to traverse. There was nothing
visible in the way of water courses in
which water could be retained; but they
were successful in finding, at long
distances, sufficient to maintain
themselves and their camels as they
fled, as it were for their lives,
westward over the Sahara, which appears
to be in a great part a desolate
wilderness, devoid of life, or of
anything life sustaining. Though this is
a grim picture put before you, yet I
would not have you daunted. Your task is
a different one, and one which all the
colony is looking forward to see
successfully completed by you.
I
have, etc.,
(Signed) MALCOLM FRASER,
Surveyor-General.
Governor Weld, however, decided that it
might be better to postpone my
expedition, as it would not be advisable
to appear to enter into competition with
the other colony; besides which it might
be of considerable advantage to wait and
avail ourselves of the results of any
discoveries that might be made by the
South Australian explorers. Another
reason for delay was that I was required
to conduct a survey of considerable
importance, which it was desirable
should be completed before undertaking
the new expedition.
It
may assist my readers to understand the
references in the latter part of my
Journal if I state that in April, 1873,
Mr. Gosse, one of the South Australian
explorers, quitted the telegraph line
about forty miles south of Mount Stuart;
that the farthest point in a westerly
direction reached by him was in
longitude 126 degrees 59 minutes East;
and that Mr. Giles, a Victorian
explorer, had reached longitude 125
degrees, but had been unable to
penetrate farther.
Some
records of these expeditions, and a copy
of the chart made by Mr. Gosse, were in
my possession, when at length, in March,
1874, I set to work on the preliminary
arrangements for the expedition. Before
leaving Perth I received from the
Surveyor-General the following outline
of instructions for my general
guidance:--
OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.
Western Australia, Surveyor-General's
Office,
Perth, 17th March, 1874.
SIR,
The
arrangements connected with the party
organized for the purpose of proceeding
on an exploratory expedition to the
north-eastern division of this territory
having now been completed, I am directed
to instruct and advise you generally in
the objects and the intention of the
Government in regard to it.
The
chief object of the expedition is to
obtain information concerning the
immense tract of country from which flow
the Murchison, Gascoigne, Ashburton,
DeGrey, Fitzroy, and other rivers
falling into the sea on the western and
northern shores of this territory, as
there are many good and reasonable
grounds for a belief that those rivers
outflow from districts neither barren
nor badly watered.
Mr.
A.C. Gregory, coming from the northwards
by Sturt's Creek, discovered the Denison
Plains, and it may be that from the head
of the Murchison River going northwards
there are to be found, near the heads of
the rivers above alluded to, many such
grassy oases; and, looking at the
success which has already attended the
stocking of the country to the eastward
of Champion Bay, and between the heads
of the Greenough River and Murchison, it
will be most fortunate for our sheep
farmers if you discover any considerable
addition to the present known pasture
grounds of the colony; and by this means
no doubt the mineral resources of the
interior will be brought eventually to
light. Every opinion of value that has
been given on the subject tells one that
the head of the Murchison lies in a
district which may prove another land of
Ophir.
In
tracing up this river from Mount Gould
to its source, and in tracing other
rivers to and from their head waters,
detours must be made, but generally your
course will be north-east until you are
within the tropics; it will then be
discretionary with you to decide on your
route, of which there is certainly a
choice of three, besides the retracing
of your steps for the purpose, perhaps,
of making a further inspection of the
good country you may have found.
Firstly, There is to choose whether you
will go westward, and fall back on the
settlements at Nicol Bay or the De Grey
River, on the north-west coast.
Secondly, To consider whether you might
advantageously push up Sturt's Creek,
keeping to the westward of Gregory's
track.
Thirdly, To decide whether or not you
will go eastward to the South Australian
telegraph line.
Possibly this latter course may be the
most desirable and most feasible to
accomplish, as the telegraph stations,
taking either Watson's Creek or Daly
Waters, are not more than 300 miles from
the known water supply on Sturt's Creek,
and, supposing you do this successfully,
the remaining distance down the
telegraph line to Port Darwin is a mere
bagatelle, provided an arrangement can
be made with the South Australian
Government to have a supply of
provisions at Daly Waters.
In
the event of your going to Port Darwin,
the plan probably will be to sell your
equipment and horses, returning with
your party by sea, but in this and in
other matters of detail there is no
desire to fetter you, or to prevent the
proper use of your judgment, as I am
fully aware that your sole object is in
common with that of the Government--the
carrying to a satisfactory result the
work to be done.
I
hope that before you individually leave
we shall have the pleasure of welcoming
Colonel Warburton, and I have no doubt
will be able to obtain some valuable
information from him.
Having now dwelt generally on the
objects of the expedition, I will go
more into details.
Your
party will consist of yourself as
leader, Mr. Alexander Forrest as
surveyor and second in command, James
Sweeney (farrier), police-constable
James Kennedy, and two natives, Tommy
Windich and Tommy Pierre, making six in
number and twenty horses. The party will
be well armed; but by every means in
your power you will endeavour to
cultivate and keep on friendly relations
with all the aborigines you may fall in
with, and avoid, if possible, any
collision with them.
The
provisions and other supplies already
arranged for are calculated to serve the
party for eight months. The expedition
will start from Champion Bay, to which
you will at once despatch by sea the
stores to be obtained here; and the men
and horses should proceed overland
without delay. You will be probably able
to charter carts or drays to take most
of your impedimenta from Geraldton to
Mr. Burges's farthest out-station on the
Murchison; this will save you 200 miles
of packing, and husband the strength of
your horses for that distance.
Having the assistance of Mr. Alexander
Forrest as surveyor to the party, you
will do as much reconnaissance work in
connexion with the colonial survey as it
may be possible; and also, by taking
celestial observations at all convenient
times, and by sketching the natural
features of the country you pass over,
add much to our geographical knowledge.
All geological and natural history
specimens you can collect and preserve
will be most valuable in perfecting
information concerning the physical
formation of the interior.
You
will be good enough to get the
agreement, forwarded with this, signed
by the whole of the party.
I
am, etc.,
MALCOLM FRASER,
Surveyor-General.
DEPARTURE OF THE EXPEDITION.
On
the 18th of March, 1874, the expedition
quitted Perth. Colonel Harvest, the
Acting-Governor, wished us a hearty
God-speed, which was warmly echoed by
our friends and the public generally.
The Surveyor-General and a party
accompanied us for some distance along
the road. Ten days afterwards we reached
Champion Bay, where we intended to
remain for three days, having settled to
commence our journey on the 1st of
April. We had enough to do in preparing
stores, shoeing horses, and starting a
team with our heaviest baggage to a spot
about fifty miles inland. On the 31st
March we were entertained at dinner by
Mr. Crowther (Member of the Legislative
Council for the district) at the
Geraldton Hotel. It was from that point
we considered the expedition really
commenced, and my Journal will show that
we numbered our camps from that place.
Our final start was not effected without
some trouble. The horses, happily
ignorant of the troubles which awaited
them, were fresh and lively, kicking,
plunging, and running away, so that it
was noon before we were fairly on the
move. Our first day's journey brought us
to a place named Knockbrack, the
hospitable residence of Mr. Thomas
Burges, where we remained two days, the
3rd being Good Friday. On the 4th we
were again on our way--a party of
friends, Messrs. E. and F. Wittenoom,
Mr. Lacy, and others, accompanying us as
far as Allen Nolba. We camped that night
at a well known as Wandanoe, where,
however, there was scarcely any feed for
the horses, who appeared very
dissatisfied with their entertainment,
for they wandered away, and several
hours were spent on the following
morning in getting them together.
Our
route lay by way of Kolonaday, North
Spring, Tinderlong, and Bilyera to Yuin,
Mr. Burges's principal station, which we
reached on the 9th, and remained until
Monday the 13th. Then we started on a
route east-north-east, and camped that
night at a rock water-hole called
Beetinggnow, where we found good feed
and water. My brother and Kennedy went
on in advance to Poondarrie, to dig
water-holes, and we rejoined them there
on the 14th. This place is situated in
latitude 27 degrees 48 minutes 39
seconds South, and longitude 116 degrees
16 minutes 11 seconds East.
On
the following day we were very busy
packing up the rations, for I had
arranged to send back the cart, gone on
in advance. We had eight months'
provisions, besides general baggage, and
I certainly experienced some difficulty
in arranging how to carry such a
tremendously heavy load, even with the
aid of eighteen pack-horses, and a dozen
natives who accompanied us. I intended
to start on the 16th, but one of the
horses was missing, and, although Pierre
and I tracked him for five miles, we
were compelled to give up the search for
that night, as darkness came on, and
return to camp. On the following day,
however, we followed up the tracks, and
caught the horse after a chase of twenty
miles. He had started on the return
journey, and was only a mile from Yuin
when we overtook him.
CAMELS AND HORSES IN THE DESERT.
By
half-past nine on the morning of the
18th we had made a fair start. The day
was intensely hot, and as we had only
three riding-horses, half of the party
were compelled to walk. We travelled in
a north-easterly direction for eleven
miles, and reached a spring called
Wallala, which we dug out, and so
obtained sufficient water for our
horses. I may mention here that Colonel
Warburton and other explorers who
endeavoured to cross the great inland
desert from the east had the advantage
of being provided with camels--a very
great advantage indeed in a country
where the water supply is so scanty and
uncertain as in Central Australia. As we
ascertained by painful experience, a
horse requires water at least once in
twelve hours, and suffers greatly if
that period of abstinence is exceeded. A
camel, however, will go for ten or
twelve days without drink, without being
much distressed. This fact should be
remembered, because the necessity of
obtaining water for the horses entailed
upon us many wearying deviations from
the main route and frequent
disappointments, besides great privation
and inconvenience to man and beast.
The
19th was Sunday, and, according to
practice, we rested. Every Sunday
throughout the journey I read Divine
Service, and, except making the daily
observations, only work absolutely
necessary was done. Whenever possible,
we rested on Sunday, taking, if we
could, a pigeon, a parrot, or such other
game as might come in our way as special
fare. Sunday's dinner was an institution
for which, even in those inhospitable
wilds, we had a great respect. This day,
the 19th, ascertained, by meridian
altitude of the sun, that we were in
latitude 27 degrees 40 minutes 6 seconds
South. We had several pigeons and
parrots, which, unfortunately for them,
but most fortunately for us, had come
within range of our guns. While thus
resting, Police constable Haydon arrived
from Champion Bay, bringing letters and
a thermometer (broken on the journey),
also a barometer. When he left we bade
good-bye to the last white man we were
destined to see for nearly six months.
After the usual difficulty with the
horses, which had again wandered, we
started on Monday, the 20th, at
half-past ten, and steering about 30
degrees East of north for seven miles,
came to a spring called Bullardo, and
seven miles farther we camped at
Warrorang, where there was scarcely any
water or feed. We were now in latitude
27 degrees 33 minutes 21 seconds South,
Cheangwa Hill being North 340 degrees
East magnetic.
I
now take up the narrative in the words
of my Journal, which will show the
reason for ultimately adopting the third
of the routes which the letter of
instructions left to my discretion.
April 21st. Continued on North 340
degrees East to Cheangwa Hill four
miles; thence northerly, passing
Koonbun, and on to a place called
Pingie, on the Sandford River. From camp
to Pingie, Barloweery Peaks bore North
322 degrees East magnetic, Cheangwa Hill
North 207 degrees East, latitude 27
degrees 19 minutes 33 seconds. Found
water by digging. Rather warm; barometer
rising. Clear flats along water-courses;
otherwise dense thickets.
THE
MURCHISON RIVER.
22nd. Continued northerly; at twelve
miles crossed the dividing range between
the Sandford and other creeks flowing
into the Murchison. Camped at a granite
hill called Bia, with a fine spring on
its north side. Got a view of Mount
Murchison, which bore North 7 degrees
East magnetic from camp. Fine grassy
granite country for the first eight
miles to-day. Splendid feed at this
camp. Travelled about fifteen miles.
Latitude by meridian altitude of Regulus
27 degrees 7 minutes South. Walking in
turns every day.
23rd. Steering a little west of north
over level country for six miles, with a
few water-courses with white gums in
them, we came into granite country with
bare hills in every direction. Kept on
till we came to a brook with pools of
fresh water, where we camped about one
mile from the Murchison River. Latitude
26 degrees 52 minutes 38 seconds, Mount
Murchison bearing North 50 degrees East.
Went with Pierre to a peak of granite
North 50 degrees East, about one mile
and a half from camp, from which I took
a round of angles and bearings.
Travelled about eighteen miles to-day.
24th. At one mile reached the Murchison
River, and followed along up it. Fine
grassy flats, good loamy soil, with
white gums in bed and on flats.
Travelled about fourteen miles, and
camped. Rather brackish water in the
pools. Latitude of camp 26 degrees 42
minutes 43 seconds by Regulus. Shot
seven ducks and eight cockatoos. Saw
several kangaroos and emus. Rain much
required. Mount Murchison bears from
camp North 122 degrees East, and Mount
Narryer North 14 degrees East magnetic.
25th. Continued up river for about nine
miles, and camped at a fine spring in
the bed of river, of fresh water, which
I named Elizabeth Spring; it is
surrounded by salt water, and is quite
fresh. Mount Narryer bore from camp
North 4 degrees East magnetic, and Mount
Murchison North 168 degrees 30 minutes
East magnetic. Windich shot an emu, and
some ducks were also shot. Fine grassy
country along river; white gums in
flats; large salt pools. Very hot
weather; thermometer 90 degrees in
pack-saddle.
26th
(Sunday). Did not travel to-day. Plotted
up track and took observations for time
and longitude. Barometer 29.18;
thermometer 83 degrees at 6 p.m.
Latitude of camp 26 degrees 35 minutes 8
seconds South by Regulus.
27th. Travelled up river for about
sixteen miles; camped at a fine fresh
pool in latitude 26 degrees 24 minutes
52 seconds South, Mount Narryer bearing
North 238 degrees East, and Mount Dugel
North 334 degrees East magnetic. Fine
grassy country along river. Shot six
ducks; great numbers were in the river,
also white cockatoos. Very warm mid-day;
cloudy in evening. Marked a tree F on
the right bank of river.
A
SOLITARY CAMP OUT.
28th. Followed up the river. Fine pools
for the first six miles, with numbers of
ducks in them. After travelling about
twenty miles we lost the river from
keeping too far to the east, and
following branches instead of the main
branch--in fact, the river spreads out
over beautifully-grassed plains for many
miles. Fearing we should be without
water, I pushed ahead, and after
following a flat for about six miles,
got to the main river, where there were
large pools of brackish water. As it was
getting late, returned in all haste, but
could not find the party, they having
struck westward. I got on the tracks
after dark, and, after following them
two miles, had to give it up and camp
for the night, tying up my horse
alongside. Neither food nor water, and
no rug.
29th. I anxiously awaited daylight, and
then followed on the tracks and overtook
the party, encamped on the main branch
of the river, with abundance of brackish
water in the pools. Shot several
cockatoos. From camp Mount Narryer bore
North 211 degrees 30 minutes East
magnetic, and Mount Dugel 225 degrees 15
minutes East magnetic. Camp is in
latitude 26 degrees 6 minutes 12
seconds. Marked a tree with the letter F
on right bank of river.
30th. Two of the horses could not be
found till half-past twelve. After this
we continued up the river over
well-grassed country for about ten
miles. Camped at a small pool of fresh
water, in latitude 26 degrees 2 minutes
52 seconds, which we luckily found by
tracking up natives. Large pools of salt
water in river. Three walking and three
riding every day. Set watch to-night,
two hours each.
May
1st. Followed up river, keeping a little
to the south of it for about fifteen
miles. We camped on a splendid grassy
flat, with a fine large pool of fresh
water in it. Shot several ducks. This is
the best camp we have had---plenty of
grass and water--and I was very rejoiced
to find the month commence so
auspiciously. Barometer 29.10;
thermometer 78 degrees at 5.30 p.m.;
latitude 26 degrees 0 minutes 52 seconds
South. Sighted Mount Gould, which bore
North 58 degrees East magnetic. Marked a
white gum-tree F 20, being 20th camp
from Geraldton.
MEETING NATIVES.
2nd.
Steered straight for Mount Gould, North
58 degrees East, for sixteen miles, when
I found I had made an error, and that we
had unknowingly crossed the river this
morning. After examining the chart, I
steered South-East towards Mount Hale
and, striking the river, we followed
along it a short distance and camped at
some brackish water, Mount Hale bearing
North 178 degrees East, and Mount Gould
North 28 degrees East. Barometer 28.96;
thermometer 77 degrees at 5.30 p.m. As
Pierre was walking along, he suddenly
turned round and saw four or five
natives following. Being rather
surprised, he frightened them by roughly
saying, "What the devil you want here?"
when they quickly made off. Windich and
I then tried to speak to them, but could
not find them. Latitude 25 degrees 57
minutes 32 seconds South; longitude
about 117 degrees 20 minutes East.
3rd
(Sunday). Went to summit of Mount Hale
in company with Pierre, and after an
hour's hard work reached it. It was very
rough and difficult to ascend. The rocks
were very magnetic; the view was
extensive; indeed, the whole country was
an extended plain. To the east, plains
for at least thirty miles, when broken
ranges were visible. Mount Gould to the
North-North-East showed very remarkably.
Mount Narryer range was visible. To the
south, only one hill or range could be
seen, while to the South-East broken
ranges of granite were seen about thirty
miles distant. Mount Hale is very lofty
and rugged, and is composed of micaceous
iron ore, with brown hematite; being
magnetic, the compass was rendered
useless. Returned about one o'clock.
Windich and the others had been out
searching for fresh water, and the
former had seen three natives and had a
talk with them. They did not appear
frightened, but he could not make
anything out of them. They found some
good water. Barometer, at 6.30 p.m.,
28.88; thermometer 76 degrees. Took
observations for time and longitude. We
are much in want of rain, and thought we
should have had some, but the barometer
is rising this evening. To-morrow we
enter on country entirely unknown.
4th.
Started at nine o'clock, and, travelling
North-East for three miles, came to
junction of river from Mount Gould, when
we got some fresh water, also met two
natives who were friendly, and they
accompanied us. We took the south or
main branch of river, and, steering a
little south of east for about nine
miles, over splendidly-grassed country,
we camped on a small pool of fresh water
on one of the courses of the river,
Mount Gould bearing North 334 degrees 30
minutes East magnetic, and Mount Hale
North 228 degrees 30 minutes East
magnetic. Barometer 28.90; thermometer
76 degrees at 6 p.m.; latitude 25
degrees 54 minutes 37 seconds by
Regulus. Marked a tree F 22, being 22nd
camp from Geraldton.
LOFTY RANGES.
5th.
We travelled up easterly along the
river, which spreads out and has several
channels, sometimes running for miles
separately, then joining again. There
were many fine fresh pools for the first
four miles, after which they were all
salt, and the river divided into so many
channels that it was difficult to know
the main river. After travelling about
sixteen miles over fine grassy plains
and flats, we were joined by seven
natives, who had returned with the two
who had left us this morning. They told
us that there was no fresh water on the
branch we were following, and we
therefore followed them North 30 degrees
East for seven miles (leaving the river
to the southward), when they brought us
to a small pool in a brook, where we
camped, Mount Gould bearing North 285
degrees 30 minutes East magnetic, Mount
Hale North 250 degrees East magnetic.
Latitude 25 degrees 52 minutes from mean
of two observations. Barometer 28.78;
thermometer 77 degrees at 6 P.M.
6th.
Three of the natives accompanied us
to-day. We travelled east for six miles,
when I ascended a rise and could see a
river to the north and south; the one to
the north the natives say has fresh
water. As the natives say there is
plenty of water ahead, North 70 degrees
East, we continued onwards to a hill,
which I named Mount Maitland. After
about twenty miles we reached it, but
found the spring to be bad, and after
digging no water came. For our relief I
tied up the horses for some time before
letting them go. Ascending the hill
close to the camp, I saw a very
extensive range, and took a fine round
of angles. The compass is useless on
these hills, as they are composed of
micaceous iron ore, with brown hematite,
which is very magnetic. To the east a
line of high, remarkable ranges extend,
running eastwards, which I have named
the Robinson Range, after his Excellency
Governor Robinson. One of the highest
points I named Mount Fraser, after the
Honourable Commissioner of Crown Lands,
from whom I received much assistance and
consideration, and who has aided the
expedition in every possible way; the
other highest point, Mount Padbury,
after Mr. W. Padbury, a contributor to
the Expedition Fund. The river could be
traced for thirty miles by the line of
white gums, while to the south long
lines of white gums could also be seen.
I am not sure which is the main branch,
but I intend following the one to the
north, as it looks the largest and the
natives say it has fresh water.
Barometer 28.45; thermometer 69 degrees
at 6 p.m.; latitude 25 degrees 46
minutes South. The last thirty-five
miles over fine grassy plains, well
adapted for sheep-runs; and water could,
I think, be easily procured by digging,
as well as from the river.
7th.
The three natives ran away this morning,
or at least left us without asking
leave. We had to keep watch all last
night over the horses to keep them from
rambling. Got an early start, and
steering North 70 degrees East for about
twelve miles, we reached the river, and
camped at a fresh pool of splendid
water. This is a fine large branch; it
is fresh, and I believe, if not the
main, is one of the largest branches.
The country is now more undulating and
splendidly grassed, and would carry
sheep well. The whole bed of the river,
or valley, is admirably adapted for
pastoral purposes, and will no doubt ere
long be stocked. Latitude 25 degrees 42
minutes 12 seconds South, and longitude
about 118 degrees 9 minutes East.
Barometer 28.57; thermometer 75 degrees
at 5.30 p.m. Marked a white gum on right
bank of river F 25, being the 25th camp
from Champion Bay.
8th.
Continued up the river for about fifteen
miles, the stream gradually getting
smaller, many small creeks coming into
it; wide bed and flat. Fine grassy
country on each side, and some permanent
pools in river. Camped at a small pool
of fresh water, and rode up to a low
ridge to the North-East, from which I
got a fine view to the eastward. I do
not think the river we are following
goes much farther; low ranges and a few
hills alone visible. Barometer 28.48;
thermometer 70 degrees at 6 o'clock
p.m.; latitude 25 degrees 47 minutes 53
seconds by meridian altitude of Jupiter.
9th.
Continued along river, which is
gradually getting smaller, for about
thirteen miles over most beautiful
grassy country, the best we have seen.
White gums along bed. I believe the
river does not go more than twenty miles
from here, it being now very small.
Found a nice pool of water and camped.
Barometer 28.48; thermometer 68 degrees
at half-past five o'clock.
THE
DRY SEASON.
10th
(Sunday). Went with Windich south about
eight miles to a low range, which I
rightly anticipated would be a
watershed. Could see a long line of
white gums; believe there may be a river
to the south, or it may be the salt
branch of the Murchison. Returned to
camp at two o'clock; plotted up track.
Barometer 28.52; thermometer 69 degrees
at 6 p.m. Mount Fraser bears North 328
degrees East magnetic from camp, which
is in latitude 25 degrees 51 minutes 46
seconds, longitude about 118 degrees 30
minutes East. The country is very dry
indeed; in fact, we could not be more
unfortunate in the season thus far. I
only trust we may be blessed with
abundance of rain shortly, otherwise we
shall not be able to move onwards.
11th. Continued up river, which is
getting very small, over
beautifully-grassed country, and at
seven miles came to a fine flat and
splendid pool of permanent water.
Although a delightful spot, I did not
halt, as we had come such a short
distance. Here we met six native women,
who were very frightened at first, but
soon found sufficient confidence to talk
and to tell us there was plenty of water
ahead. As they always say this, I do not
put any faith in it. We continued on
about east for eight miles to a high
flat-topped hill, when we got a view of
the country ahead and turned about
North-East towards some flats, and at
about eight miles camped on a grassy
plain, with some small clay-pans of
water. Splendid feeding country all
along this valley--I may say for the
last 100 miles. Heard a number of
natives cooeying above our camp, but did
not see them. Barometer 28.37;
thermometer 68 degrees at six o'clock
p.m.; latitude 25 degrees 51 minutes
South by meridian altitude of Jupiter.
12th. Started East-North-East for four
miles, then north three miles to the
range, where we searched over an hour
for water without success. We then
travelled South-East for five miles and
south one mile and a half to a
water-hole in a brook, by digging out
which we got abundance of water. About a
quarter of a mile farther down the brook
found a large pool of water and shot six
ducks. As soon as we unloaded, it
commenced to rain, and kept on steadily
till midnight. I am indeed pleased to
get this rain at last, as the country is
very dry. Splendid open feeding country
all to-day, and the camp is a
beautifully-grassed spot. Marked a white
gum-tree F 29, close to the pool or
spring on the right bank of this brook.
GLENGARRY RANGE.
13th. Continued on, steering about
south-east, as the flat we have been
following the last week is now nearly at
an end. Afterwards determined to bear
southward, in order to see where the
south branch of the river goes to. For
the first six miles over most
magnificent grassed country. Ascended a
low range to get a view of the country.
The prospect ahead, however, not
cheering. Took round of bearings. A very
conspicuous range bore about south,
which I named Glengarry Range, in honour
of Mr. Maitland Brown, a great supporter
of the expedition; while to the
south-east only one solitary hill could
be seen, distant about twenty miles. We,
however, continued for about ten miles
over most miserable country, thickets
and spinifex, when we reached some
granitic rocks and a low rise of
granite, on which we found sufficient
water to camp. Barometer 28.12;
thermometer 60 degrees at 5.30 p.m.;
latitude 25 degrees 57 minutes 11
seconds South by Regulus.
14th. Steered South-East for about
fourteen miles to a stony low range,
thence East-North-East and east and
south for six miles, turning and
twisting, looking for water. Windich
found some in a gully and we camped.
Spinifex for the first fourteen miles,
and miserable country. The prospect
ahead not very promising. Barometer
28.06; thermometer 83 degrees at 5 p.m.
Every appearance of rain. Latitude 26
degrees 8 minutes 31 seconds South,
longitude about 119 degrees 18 minutes
East.
15th. Raining lightly this morning. I
did not proceed, but gave the horses
rest.
16th. Continued east for five miles,
when we found three of the horses were
missing; returned with Windich, and
found them near camp, having never
started at all. Seeing white gums to the
south-east, we followed for five miles
down a fine brook (which I named Negri
Creek, after Commander Negri, founder of
the Geographical Society of Italy), with
fine grassy country on each side.
Afterwards it joined another brook, and
went south-east for about three miles,
where it lost itself in open flats.
Struck south for two miles to some large
white gums, but found no water. After
long looking about I found water in a
gully and camped. Distance travelled
about twenty miles. Spinifex and grassy
openings the first five miles to-day.
Barometer 28.20; thermometer 67 degrees
at 6 o'clock p.m.; latitude 26 degrees
16 minutes 8 seconds by Jupiter. Windich
shot a turkey.
MOUNTS BARTLE AND RUSSELL.
17th
(Sunday). The horses rambled far away,
and it was noon before they were all
collected. Shifted three and a half
miles north, where there was better feed
and water. Went on to a low hill on the
north of our last night's camp, and got
a fine view of the country to the south
and south-east. Two remarkable
flat-topped hills bore South-East, which
I named Mount Bartle and Mount Russell,
after the distinguished President and
Foreign Secretary of the Royal
Geographical Society. Saw a long line of
white gums (colalyas) running East and
West about ten miles distant, looking
very much like a river. To the east and
north the view was intercepted by long
stony rises, apparently covered with
spinifex. Large white gum clumps studded
the plains in every direction. Evidences
of heavy rainfall at certain times to be
seen everywhere. Barometer 28.28;
thermometer 72 degrees at 5 p.m.;
latitude 26 degrees 13 minutes 4 seconds
South.
18th. Steered South-South-East for four
miles, then South-East generally,
towards the flat-topped hills seen
yesterday, and which bore 144 degrees
East magnetic from Spinifex Hill. At six
miles crossed a low range covered with
spinifex, after which we passed over
country generally well grassed, some of
it most beautifully, and white gums very
large in clumps were studded all over
the plains. At about twenty-two miles
reached the flat-topped hills, and
camped, finding some water in a
clay-pan. The line of white gums I find
are only large clumps studded over
extensive plains of splendidly-grassed
country. No large water-course was
crossed, but several small creeks form
here and there, and afterwards run out
into the plains, finally finding their
way into the Murchison. It was sundown
when we camped. Walked over twenty miles
myself to-day. Barometer 28.38;
thermometer 60 degrees at six o'clock;
latitude 26 degrees 27 minutes 38
seconds South, longitude about 119
degrees 42 minutes East.
19th. Continued in a north-easterly
direction for about eight miles over
fine grassy plains, and camped at some
water in a small gully with fine feed. I
camped early in order to give the backs
of the horses a good washing, and to
refit some of the pack-saddles. Passed
several clay-pans with water. We have
not seen any permanent water for the
last eighty miles. I much wish to find
some, as it is very risky going on
without the means of falling back. The
country seems very deficient of
permanent water, although I believe
plenty could be procured by sinking.
Barometer 28.46; thermometer 63 degrees
at 5 p.m.; latitude 26 degrees 23
minutes 39 seconds South. Left a
pack-saddle frame and two pack-bags
hanging on a tree.
KIMBERLEY RANGE.
20th. Steering North-East for five miles
over fine grassy plains, came to a low
stony range, ascending which we saw, a
little to the south, a line of (colalya)
white gums, to which we proceeded. Then
following up a large brook for about
five miles North-East, we camped at a
small water-hole in the brook. In the
afternoon I went with Pierre about one
mile North-East of camp to the summit of
a rough range and watershed, which I
believe is the easterly watershed of the
Murchison River. All the creeks to the
west of this range (which I named
Kimberley Range, after the Right
Honourable Lord Kimberley, the Secretary
of State for the Colonies) trend towards
the Murchison, and finally empty into
the main river. From this range we could
see a long way to the eastward. The
country is very level, with low ranges,
but no conspicuous hills. Not a
promising country for water, but still
looks good feeding country. This range
is composed of brown hematite,
decomposing to yellow (tertiary), and is
very magnetic, the compass being
useless. Bituminous pitch found oozing
out of the rocks--probably the result of
the decomposition of the excrement of
bats. It contains fragments of the wing
cases of insects, and gives reactions
similar to the bituminous mineral or
substance found in Victoria. Barometer
28.285; thermometer 63 degrees at 5 p.m.
On summit of watershed, barometer 28.15;
thermometer 69 degrees; latitude 26
degrees 17 minutes 12 seconds, longitude
about 119 degrees 54 minutes East.
21st. Continued on North-East, and,
travelling over the watershed of the
Murchison, we followed along a gully
running North-East; then, passing some
water-holes, travelled on and ascended a
small range, from which we beheld a very
extensive clear plain just before us.
Thinking it was a fine grassy plain we
quickly descended, when, to our disgust,
we found it was spinifex that had been
burnt. We continued till three o'clock,
with nothing but spinifex plains in
sight. I despatched Windich towards a
range in the distance, and followed
after as quickly as possible. When we
reached the range we heard the welcoming
gunshot, and, continuing on, we met
Tommy, who had found abundance of water
and feed on some granite rocks. We soon
unloaded, and were all rejoiced to be in
safety, the prospect this afternoon
having been anything but cheering.
Distance travelled about thirty miles.
Barometer 28.22; thermometer 56 degrees
at 6 p.m. Cold easterly wind all day.
About eighteen miles of spinifex plains,
latitude 26 degrees 0 minutes 53 seconds
by Arcturus and e Bootes.
22nd. Did not travel to-day, the horses
being tired, and the country ahead did
not seem very inviting. Windich found a
native spring about a mile to the
North-East. This is a very nice spot,
surrounded as it is by spinifex.
Variation 2 degrees 40 minutes West by
observation.
23rd. Continued on North-East for about
twelve miles over spinifex plains and
sandy ridges. Went on ahead with
Windich, and came to a gorge and some
granite rocks with abundance of water,
and were soon joined by the party.
Barometer 28.30; thermometer 60 degrees
at 6 p.m.; latitude 25 degrees 53
minutes 52 seconds by Altair.
24th
(Sunday). We rested at camp. I was all
day calculating lunar observations.
Barometer 28.22; thermometer 64 degrees
at 5.30 p.m.
FRERE RANGES.
25th. Travelled onwards about North 40
degrees East for eight miles, passing a
low granite range at six miles. Came to
a fine brook trending a little south of
east, which we followed downwards seven
miles, running nearly east. This brook
was full of water, some of the pools
being eight or ten feet deep, ten yards
wide, and sixty yards long. It flowed
out into a large flat, and finally runs
into a salt lake. I named this brook
Sweeney Creek, after my companion and
farrier, James Sweeney. Leaving the
flat, we struck North-North-East for
four miles, and came to a salt marsh
about half a mile wide, which we
crossed. Following along, came into some
high ranges, which I named the Frere
Ranges, after Sir Bartle Frere, the
distinguished President of the Royal
Geographical Society. Found a small rock
water-hole in a gully and camped. Water
appears exceedingly scarce in these
ranges. It is very remarkable that there
should have been such heavy rain twelve
miles back, and none at all here. Rough
feed for horses. Distance travelled
about twenty-seven miles. These ranges
run east and west, and are the highest
we have seen. The marsh appears to
follow along the south side of the
range. Barometer 28.38; thermometer 70
degrees at 5.30 p.m.; latitude 25
degrees 43 minutes 44 seconds by
Arcturus.
26th. Ascended the Frere Ranges and got
a fine view to the north and east. Fine
high hills and ranges to the north; a
salt marsh and low ranges to the east
and South-East. Continued on North-East
for four miles, then North-North-West
for three miles, passing plenty of water
in clay-holes and clay-pans in bed of
marsh, we camped at a fine pool in a
large brook that runs into the marsh,
which I called Kennedy Creek, after my
companion James Kennedy. The prospect
ahead is very cheering, and I hope to
find plenty of water and feed for the
next 100 miles. Latitude 25 degrees 38
minutes 44 seconds South; barometer
28.42; thermometer 41 degrees at 10 p.m.
Marked a white gumtree F 40 close to
camp in bed of river. The banks of the
brook at this spot are composed of
purple-brown slate (Silurian).
27th. Followed up the Kennedy Creek,
bearing North-North-East and North for
about seven miles, passing a number of
shallow pools, when we came to some
splendid springs, which I named the
Windich Springs, after my old and
well-tried companion Tommy Windich, who
has now been on three exploring
expeditions with me. They are the best
springs I have ever seen--flags in the
bed of the river, and pools twelve feet
deep and twenty chains long--a splendid
place for water. We therefore camped,
and found another spot equally good a
quarter of a mile west of camp in
another branch. There is a most
magnificent supply of water and
feed--almost unlimited and permanent. A
fine range of hills bore north-west from
the springs, which I named Carnarvon
Range, after the Right Honourable the
present Secretary of State for the
Colonies. The hills looked very
remarkable, being covered with spinifex
almost to their very summit. We shot
five ducks and got three opossums this
afternoon, besides doing some shoeing.
There is an immense clump of white gums
at head of spring. Barometer 28.34;
thermometer 46 degrees at 11 p.m. Marked
a large white gum-tree F 41 on west side
close to right bank of river, being our
41st camp from Geraldton. Latitude 25
degrees 22 minutes 26 seconds South,
longitude about 120 degrees 42 minutes
East.
MOUNT SALVADO.
28th. Steering North 30 degrees East for
eleven miles, we came to a rough hill,
which I ascended, camped on north side
of it, and found water in a gully. The
view was very extensive but not
promising--spinifex being in every
direction. A bold hill bore North 31
degrees East magnetic, about seven miles
distant to the North-North-West, which I
named Mount Salvado, after Bishop
Salvado, of Victoria Plains, a
contributor to the Expedition Fund. The
Carnarvon Ranges looked very remarkable.
To the East and North-East spinifex and
low ranges for fifteen miles, when the
view was intercepted by spinifex
rises--altogether very unpromising.
Barometer 28.26; thermometer 70 degrees
at 5 p.m.; latitude 25 degrees 24
minutes 11 seconds South.
29th. Steered East-North-East for seven
miles, when we came to some fine water
in a gully, which we did not camp at,
owing to my being ahead with Windich,
and my brother not seeing a note I left
telling him to remain there while I went
on to get a view ahead. Passing this at
ten miles, we reached a low spinifex
hill capped with rock, from which a
remarkable hill was visible, which I
named Mount Davis, after my friend Mr.
J.S. Davis, who was a contributor to the
Expedition Fund. Mount Salvado was also
visible. Spinifex in every direction,
and the country very miserable and
unpromising. I went ahead with Windich.
Steering about North 15 degrees East for
about eight miles over spinifex
sand-hills, we found a spring in a small
flat, which I named Pierre Spring, after
my companion Tommy Pierre. It was
surrounded by the most miserable
spinifex country, and is quite a diamond
in the desert. We cleared it out and got
sufficient water for our horses. To the
North, South, and East nothing but
spinifex sand-hills in sight. Barometer
28.44; thermometer 70 degrees at 5 p.m.;
latitude 25 degrees 14 minutes 34
seconds South by Altair.
SEARCHING FOR WATER.
30th. Steering East-North-East over
spinifex red sand-hills for nine miles,
we came to a valley and followed down a
gully running North-North-East for two
miles, when it lost itself on the flat,
which was wooded and grassy. About a
mile farther on we found a clay-pan with
water, and camped, with excellent feed.
The country is very dry, and I should
think there has not been any rain for
several months. The appearance of the
country ahead is better than it looked
yesterday. I went onwards with Windich
to-day, and found the water. Barometer
28.46; thermometer 66 degrees at 5.30
p.m.; latitude 25 degrees 10 minutes 32
seconds.
31st. (Sunday). Rested at camp. Took
observations for time. Left two
pack-saddle bags hanging on a tree.
June
1st. Barometer 28.38; thermometer 45
degrees at 8 a.m. In collecting the
horses we came on an old native camp,
and found the skull of a native, much
charred, evidently the remains of one
who had been eaten. Continued on about
North-East along a grassy flat, and at
five miles passed some clay-pans of
water, after which we encountered
spinifex, which continued for fifteen
miles, when we got to a rocky range,
covered with more spinifex. Myself and
Windich were in advance, and after
reaching the range we followed down a
flat about North for six miles, when it
joined another large water-course, both
trending North-North-West and
North-West. We followed down this river
for about seven miles, in hopes of
finding water, without success. Night
was fast approaching, and I struck north
for four miles to a range, on reaching
which the prospect was very poor; it
proved to be a succession of spinifex
sand-hills, and no better country was in
view to the North-East and East. It was
just sundown when we reached the range;
we then turned east for two miles, and
south, following along all the gullies
we came across, but could find no water.
It was full moon, so that we could see
clearly. We turned more to the westward
and struck our outward tracks, and,
following back along them, we met the
party encamped at the junction of the
two branches mentioned before. We kept
watch over the horses to keep them from
straying. Mine and Windich's horses were
nearly knocked up, and Windich himself
was very ill all night. Latitude 24
degrees 55 minutes 19 seconds South.
AT
WELD SPRINGS.
2nd.
Early this morning went with Pierre to
look for water, while my brother and
Windich went on the same errand. We
followed up the brook about south for
seven miles, when we left it and
followed another branch about
South-South-East, ascending which,
Pierre drew my attention to swarms of
birds, parroquets, etc., about half a
mile ahead. We hastened on, and to our
delight found one of the best springs in
the colony. It ran down the gully for
twenty chains, and is as clear and fresh
as possible, while the supply is
unlimited. Overjoyed at our good
fortune, we hastened back, and, finding
that my brother and Windich had not
returned, packed up and shifted over to
the springs, leaving a note telling them
the good news. After reaching the
springs we were soon joined by them.
They had only found sufficient water to
give their own horses a drink; they also
rejoiced to find so fine a spot. Named
the springs the Weld Springs, after his
Excellency Governor Weld, who has always
taken such great interest in
exploration, and without whose influence
and assistance this expedition would not
have been organized. There is splendid
feed all around. I intend giving the
horses a week's rest here, as they are
much in want of it, and are getting very
poor and tired. Barometer 28.24;
thermometer 71 degrees at 5 p.m. Shot a
kangaroo.
3rd.
Rested at Weld Springs. Light rain this
morning. The horses doing well, and will
improve very fast. Towards evening the
weather cleared, which I was sorry for,
as good rains are what we are much in
need of. Did some shoeing. Barometer
28.13; thermometer 61 degrees at 5 p.m.
4th.
Barometer 28.16; thermometer 53 degrees
at 8 a.m. Rested at Weld Springs. Shod
some of the horses. Repairing saddles.
Rating chronometer. Windich shot an emu.
Horses doing first-rate, and fast
improving.
5th.
Barometer 28.28; thermometer 53 degrees
at 6 p.m. Rested at Weld Springs.
Shoeing and saddle-stuffing. Ten emus
came to water; shot twice with rifle at
them, but missed. Rated chronometer.
6th.
Rested at Weld Springs. Took three sets
of lunars. Pierre shot a kangaroo.
Marked a tree F 46 on the east side of
the spring at our bivouac, which is in
latitude 25 degrees 0 minutes 46 seconds
South, longitude about 121 degrees 21
minutes East. Mended saddles. Horses
much improved, and some of them getting
very fresh.
7th
(Sunday). Pierre shot an emu, and the
others shot several pigeons. This is a
splendid spot; emus and kangaroos
numerous, pigeons and birds innumerable,
literally covering the entire surface
all round the place in the evenings. We
have been living on game ever since we
have been here. Intend taking a flying
trip to-morrow; party to follow on our
tracks on Tuesday. Read Divine Service.
Barometer 28.38; thermometer 55 degrees
at 7 p.m.
8th.
Started with Tommy Pierre to explore the
country East-North-East for water,
leaving instructions for my brother to
follow after us to-morrow with the
party. We travelled generally
East-North-East for twenty miles over
spinifex and undulating sand-hills,
without seeing any water. We turned east
for ten miles to a range, which we found
to be covered with spinifex. Everywhere
nothing else was to be seen; no feed,
destitute of water; while a few small
gullies ran out of the low range, but
all were dry. Another range about
twenty-four miles distant was the extent
of our view, to which we bore. At twenty
miles, over red sandy hills covered with
spinifex and of the most miserable
nature, we came to a narrow samphire
flat, following which south for two
miles, we camped without water and
scarcely any feed. Our horses were
knocked up, having come over heavy
ground more than fifty miles. The whole
of the country passed over to-day is
covered with spinifex, and is a barren
worthless desert.
BACK
TO THE SPRINGS.
9th.
At daybreak continued east about four
miles to the range seen yesterday, which
we found to be a low stony rise, covered
with spinifex. The view was extensive
and very gloomy. Far to the north and
east, spinifex country, level, and no
appearance of hills or water-courses. To
the south were seen a few low ranges,
covered also with spinifex; in fact,
nothing but spinifex in sight, and no
chance of water. Therefore I was obliged
to turn back, as our horses were done
up. Travelling south for five miles, we
then turned West-North-West until we
caught our outward tracks, and,
following them, we met the party at 3
o'clock, coming on, about twenty miles
from the Weld Springs. Our horses were
completely done up. We had not had water
for thirty-one hours. We all turned
back, retreating towards the springs,
and continued on till 10 o'clock, when
we camped in the spinifex and tied up
the horses.
10th. We travelled on to the springs,
which were only about three miles from
where we slept last night, and camped. I
intend staying here for some time, until
I find water ahead or we get some rain.
We are very fortunate in having such a
good depot, as the feed is very good. We
found that about a dozen natives had
been to the springs while we were away.
They had collected some of the emu
feathers, which were lying all about.
Natives appear to be very numerous, and
I have no doubt that there are springs
in the spinifex or valleys close to it.
Barometer 28.08; thermometer 62 degrees
at 5.30 p.m.
11th. Rested at the Weld Springs. Shot
an emu; about a dozen came to water. My
brother and Windich intend going a
flying trip East-South-East in search of
water to-morrow. Barometer 28.15;
thermometer 60 degrees at 5 p.m.
12th. My brother and Windich started in
search of water; myself and Pierre
accompanied them about twelve miles with
water to give their horses a drink.
About ten o'clock we left them and
returned to camp.
FIGHT WITH THE NATIVES.
13th. About one o'clock Pierre saw a
flock of emus coming to water, and went
off to get a shot. Kennedy followed with
the rifle. I climbed up on a small tree
to watch them. I was surprised to hear
natives' voices, and, looking towards
the hill, I saw from forty to sixty
natives running towards the camp, all
plumed up and armed with spears and
shields. I was cool, and told Sweeney to
bring out the revolvers; descended from
the tree and got my gun and cooeyed to
Pierre and Kennedy, who came running. By
this time they were within sixty yards,
and halted. One advanced to meet me and
stood twenty yards off; I made friendly
signs; he did not appear very hostile.
All at once one from behind (probably a
chief) came rushing forward, and made
many feints to throw spears. He went
through many manoeuvres, and gave a
signal, when the whole number made a
rush towards us, yelling and shouting,
with their spears shipped. When within
thirty yards I gave the word to fire: we
all fired as one man, only one report
being heard. I think the natives got a
few shots, but they all ran up the hill
and there stood, talking and haranguing
and appearing very angry. We re-loaded
our guns, and got everything ready for a
second attack, which I was sure they
would make. We were not long left in
suspense. They all descended from the
hill and came on slowly towards us. When
they were about 150 yards off I fired my
rifle, and we saw one of them fall, but
he got up again and was assisted away.
On examining the spot we found the ball
had cut in two the two spears he was
carrying; he also dropped his wommera,
which was covered with blood. We could
follow the blood-drops for a long way
over the stones. I am afraid he got a
severe wound. My brother and Windich
being away we were short-handed. The
natives seem determined to take our
lives, and therefore I shall not
hesitate to fire on them should they
attack us again. I thus decide and write
in all humility, considering it a
necessity, as the only way of saving our
lives. I write this at 4 p.m., just
after the occurrence, so that, should
anything happen to us, my brother will
know how and when it occurred.
5
p.m. The natives appear to have made
off. We intend sleeping in the thicket
close to camp, and keeping a strict
watch, so as to be ready for them should
they return to the attack this evening.
At 7.30 my brother and Windich returned,
and were surprised to hear of our
adventure. They had been over fifty
miles from camp East-South-East, and had
passed over some good feeding country,
but had not found a drop of water. They
and their horses had been over thirty
hours without water.
Attacked by the Natives at Weld Springs.
14th
(Sunday). The natives did not return to
the attack last night. In looking round
camp we found the traces of blood, where
one of the natives had been lying down.
This must have been the foremost man,
who was in the act of throwing his
spear, and who urged the others on. Two
therefore, at least, are wounded, and
will have cause to remember the time
they made their murderous attack upon
us. We worked all day putting up a stone
hut, ten by nine feet, and seven feet
high, thatched with boughs. We finished
it; it will make us safe at night. Being
a very fair hut, it will be a great
source of defence. Barometer 28.09;
thermometer 68 degrees at 5 p.m. Hope to
have rain, as without it we cannot
proceed.
15th. Finished the hut, pugging it at
the ends, and making the roof better.
Now it is in good order, and we are
quite safe from attack at night, should
they attempt it again, which I think is
doubtful, as they got too warm a
reception last time. I intend going with
Windich to-morrow easterly in search of
water. Barometer 29.09 at 5 p.m.;
thermometer 62 degrees.
16th. Left the Weld Springs with Windich
and a pack-horse carrying fourteen
gallons of water. Steered South-East for
twelve miles over spinifex, after which
we got into a grassy ravine, which we
followed along three miles, passing some
fine clay-holes which would hold plenty
of water if it rained. We then turned
East-North-East for twelve miles over
spinifex, miserable country, when we
struck the tracks of my brother and
Windich on their return, June 13th. We
followed along them South-East for four
miles, and then South-East to a bluff
range about eighteen miles, which we
reached at sundown. Spinifex generally,
a few grassy patches intervening, on
which were numbers of kangaroos. We
camped close to the bluff, and gave the
horses one gallon of water each out of
the cans. Just when the pannicans were
boiled, heard noises which we thought
were natives shouting. We instantly put
out the fire and had our supper in the
dark, keeping a sharp look-out for two
hours, when we were convinced it must
have been a native dog, as there were
hundreds all round us, barking and
howling. The weather is heavy and
cloudy, and I hope to get some rain
shortly. We slept without any fire, but
it was not very cold.
17th. As the horses did not ramble far,
we got off early and followed along and
through the ranges East-South-East
about, the distance being eighteen
miles. Passed some splendid clay-pans
quite dry. The flats around the ranges
are very grassy, and look promising
eastwards, but we cannot find any water.
Kangaroos and birds are numerous. Being
about seventy miles from camp, we cannot
go any farther, or our horses will not
carry us back. We therefore turned,
keeping to the south of our outward
track, and at about eleven miles found
some water in some clay-holes, and
camped at about 3 o'clock in the
afternoon. There is sufficient water to
last the party about a week, but not
more. The weather is dark and
threatening, and I believe there will be
rain to-night, which will be a great
boon, and will enable us to travel along
easily. It is in circumstances such as I
am at present placed that we are sure to
implore help and assistance from the
hand of the Creator; but when we have
received all we desire, how often we
forget to give Him praise!
18th. Rained lightly last night, and we
had a nice shower this morning. Yet did
not get very wet, as we had our
waterproofs. Fearing that the rain would
obliterate the tracks and the party be
unable to follow them, I decided to
return towards Weld Springs. Therefore
followed along our outward track, but
found, to our sorrow, that there had
been no rain west of our last night's
camp. We pushed along and got within
eighteen miles of Weld Springs and
camped without water, having left the
cans behind, thinking we should find
plenty of rain-water.
19th. We had to go about two miles for
our horses this morning; after which, we
made all haste towards Weld Springs, as
I knew the party would be coming on
along our tracks to-day. When we were
within six miles of the spring we met
the party, but, being obliged to take
our horses to water, I decided that all
should return and make a fresh start
to-morrow. The natives had not returned
to the attack during our absence, so I
conclude they do not intend to interfere
with us further. On our way to-day we
passed some fine rock holes, but all
were quite dry. Rain is very much
required in this country.
20th. Started at 9.30 a.m., and steering
South-East towards the water found on
the 17th for twenty-four miles; thence
East-South-East for eight miles, and
camped without water on a small patch of
feed. The last ten miles was over clear
spinifex country of the most wretched
description. The country all the way, in
fact, is most miserable and intolerable.
Barometer 28.50; thermometer 56 degrees
at 8 p.m.; latitude 25 degrees 13
minutes 36 seconds South by meridian
altitude of Arcturus. Left the rum-keg
and a pair of farrier's pincers in the
stone hut at Weld Springs.
21st
(Sunday). Got an early start, and
continued on East-South-East. At about
three miles reached a spring on a small
patch of feed in the spinifex and
camped, but found, after digging it out,
that scarcely any water came in. I have
no doubt that it will fill up a good
deal in the night; but, our horses being
thirsty, I re-saddled and pushed on to
the water about sixteen miles ahead,
which we reached at 4 p.m. There is not
more than a week's supply here,
therefore I intend going ahead with
Pierre to-morrow in search of more. The
country ahead seems promising, but there
is a great deal of spinifex almost
everywhere. From Weld Spring to our
present camp is all spinifex, with the
exception of a few flats along short
gullies. Latitude 25 degrees 22 minutes
50 seconds South, longitude about 121
degrees 57 minutes East. Barometer
28.50; thermometer 62 degrees at 5 p.m.
22nd. Left camp in company with Tommy
Pierre, with a pack-horse carrying
fifteen gallons of water. Steered
South-East for four miles, then east for
about eight miles over fine grassy
country, then South-East towards a high
range about twenty-five miles distant.
After going about three miles, struck a
flat trending South-South-East, which we
followed down about four miles, passing
two small clay-holes with water in them;
then we struck South-East for four
miles, and came to a large brook
trending South-East, which we followed
along until it lost itself on the plain
about six miles. Fine grassy country all
the way, and game abundant. There were a
few gallons of water here and there in
the brook, but none large enough to camp
at. I then turned east, and at about
seven miles reached the hill seen this
morning, which I named Mount Moore,
after Mr. W.D. Moore, of Fremantle, a
subscriber to the Expedition Fund.
Ascending the hill we had an extensive
view to the South-West, South, and
South-East. Fine grassy country all
round and very little spinifex. To the
south about nine miles we saw a lake,
and farther off a remarkable red-faced
range, which I named Timperley Range,
after my friend Mr. W.H. Timperley,
Inspector of Police, from whom I
received a great deal of assistance
before leaving Champion Bay. A
remarkable peak, with a reddish top,
bore South-South-East, which I named
Mount Hosken, after Mr. M. Hosken, of
Geraldton, a contributor to the
expedition. I made south towards the
lake, and at one mile and a half came on
to a gully in the grassy plain, in which
we found abundance of water, sufficient
to last for months. We therefore camped
for the night, with beautiful feed for
the horses. I was very thankful to find
so much water and such fine grassy
country, for, if we had not found any
this trip, we should have been obliged
to retreat towards Weld Springs, the
water where I left the party being only
sufficient to last a few days. The
country passed over to-day was very
grassy, with only a little spinifex, and
it looks promising ahead. Distance from
camp about thirty-five miles.
LAKE
AUGUSTA.
23rd. Steering south for about eight
miles, we reached the lake, which I
named Lake Augusta. The water is salt,
and about five miles in circumference.
Grassy country in the flat; red
sand-hills along the shore. It appeared
deep, and swarmed with ducks and swans.
Pierre shot two ducks, after which we
pushed on North-East for about twelve
miles to a low rocky bluff, which we
ascended and got a view of the country
ahead--rough broken ranges to the east
and south. We continued on east for six
miles, when, on approaching a rocky face
of a range, we saw some natives on top
of it, watching us. Approaching nearer,
we heard them haranguing and shouting,
and soon afterward came within thirty
yards of one who was stooping down,
looking intently and amazedly at us. I
made friendly signs, but he ran off
shouting, and apparently much afraid. He
and several others ran up and joined the
natives on the cliff summit, and then
all made off. We turned, and steering
East-North-East for six miles, and then
east for about fourteen miles, the last
few miles being miserable spinifex
country, we camped, with poor feed,
amongst some spinifex ranges. A good
deal of grassy country the first part of
the day. Kangaroos very numerous, and
emus also. Evidences of the natives
being in great numbers.
24th. Ascended a red-topped peak close
to our bivouac and got a view ahead. A
salt lake was visible a few miles to the
east, towards which we proceeded.
Passing along samphire flats and over
red sand-hills, we got within a mile of
the lake. The country close to it not
looking promising, I determined to turn
our faces westward towards the party.
Steering a little south of west for
three miles, we struck a large brook
trending North-East into the lake, and,
following it up a mile, found a fine
pool of fresh water, with splendid feed.
This is very fortunate, as it is a good
place to bring the party to. Elated with
our success, we continued on westerly,
passing some fine rock water-holes, half
full of water, and at twenty miles from
the pool we found a springy hole, with
plenty of water in it, within a few
hundred yards of our outward track. We
had missed it going out; it is in the
centre of a very fine grassy plain.
Kangaroos and emus numerous, also
natives. Giving the horses water, we
pushed on for twelve miles and camped on
some fine grassy flats. Every appearance
of rain.
ANOTHER NATIVE.
25th. Having finished all our rations
last night, I shot two kangaroos while
out for the horses, and brought the hind
quarters with us. Continuing westerly
for about ten miles, we reached the
water, our bivouac on the 22nd. I
awaited the arrival of the party, which
should reach here this morning. At two
o'clock heard gunshots, and saw my
brother and Windich walking towards us.
Found that they had missed our tracks
and were camped about a mile higher up
the gully, at some small clay-holes. We
got our horses and accompanied them
back. Rained this evening more than we
have had before. Very cloudy. Barometer
28.18, but inclined to rise. Everything
had gone on well during my absence.
26th. Did not travel to-day, as there
was good feed and water at this camp. My
brother, Windich, and Pierre rode over
to Lake Augusta to get some shooting,
and returned in the afternoon with a
swan and two ducks. On their way out
they saw a native and gave him chase. He
climbed up a small tree, and, although
Windich expended all his knowledge of
the languages of Australia to get him to
talk, he would not open his lips, but
remained silent; they therefore left him
to get down from the tree at his
leisure. Re-stuffed some of the
pack-saddles. Marked a tree F 50, being
our 50th camp from Geraldton. Barometer
28.40; thermometer 50 degrees at 6 p.m.;
weather cleared off and fine night.
Latitude 25 degrees 37 minutes 38
seconds South; longitude about 122
degrees 22 minutes East.
27th. Erected a cairn of stones on
South-East point of Mount Moore, after
which continued on and reached the
spring found by me on the 24th; distance
fifteen miles. The last six miles poor
spinifex country. Fine and grassy round
spring. Barometer 28.54; thermometer 56
degrees at 7 p.m.; latitude 25 degrees
37 minutes 53 seconds by Arcturus.
Marked a tree F 51, being the 51st camp
from Geraldton.
28th
(Sunday). Rested at spring. Found the
variations to be 1 degree 52 minutes
West by azimuths.
29th. Reached the pool found by me on
the 24th; distance seventeen miles.
Latitude 25 degrees 41 minutes 22
seconds South; longitude about 122
degrees 53 minutes East. Splendid feed
round camp. Marked a tree F 52, being
the 52nd from Geraldton. About two miles
west of camp I ascended a remarkable
hill and took a round of bearings,
naming it Mount Bates, after the
Secretary of the Royal Geographical
Society.
FARING SUMPTUOUSLY.
30th. Left camp F 52 in company with
Tommy Windich, taking one pack-horse, to
find water ahead eastward. Steered
East-North-East over salt marshes and
spinifex sand-hills, and at about eleven
miles found water in some clay-pans, and
left a note telling my brother to camp
here to-morrow night. Continued on and
found several more fine water-pans and
fine grassy patches. Ascended a range to
get a view ahead. In every direction
spinifex, more especially to the north;
to the east some low ranges were
visible, about twenty miles distant,
towards which we proceeded. On our way
we surprised an emu on its nest and
found several eggs; we buried four with
a note stuck over them, for the party to
get when they came along, and took three
with us. Soon after this the horse
Windich was riding (Mission) gave in,
and we had great difficulty in getting
him along. I was much surprised at this,
for I considered him the best horse we
had. We reached the range and found
water in some of the gorges, but no
feed; spinifex everywhere. We continued
on till dark, passing some natives'
fire, which we did not approach, then
camped with scarcely any feed. I hope to
have better luck to-morrow. We have
found plenty of water, but no feed; this
is better than having no water and
plenty of feed. We had one wurrung, four
chockalotts, and three emu eggs, besides
bread and bacon, for tea to-night, so we
fared sumptuously.
July
1st. Got off early and continued
easterly to a low stony range three
miles off, over spinifex sandy country.
Found a rock water-hole and gave our
horses a drink. Continuing about east to
other ranges, which we followed along
and through, and from range to range,
spinifex intervening everywhere, and no
feed, a few little drops of water in the
gullies, but not sufficient for the
party to camp at. When we had travelled
about fifteen miles, we turned north for
three miles, and again east, through and
over some ranges. No feed and scarcely
any water. Saw a range about twenty-five
miles farther east--spinifex all the way
to it. Mission being again knocked up,
although carrying only a few pounds, we
camped about three o'clock at a small
hole of water in a gully--only large
enough to serve the party one night--the
first to-day that would even do that.
The last forty miles was over the most
wretched country I have ever seen; not a
bit of grass, and no water, except after
rain; spinifex everywhere. We are very
fortunate to have a little rain-water,
or we could not get ahead.
On
the March. The Spinifex Desert.
2nd.
Steered towards the range seen yesterday
a little south of east, and, after going
twelve miles, my horse completely gave
in, Mission doing the same also. I had
hard work to get them along, and at last
they would not walk. I gave them a rest
and then drove them before me, following
Windich till we reached the range. Found
a little water in a gully, but no feed.
Spinifex all the way to-day; most
wretched country. We ascended the range,
and the country ahead looks first-rate;
high ranges to the North-East, and
apparently not so much spinifex. We
continued North-East, and after going
four miles camped on a patch of feed,
the first seen for the last sixty miles.
I was very tired, having walked nearly
twenty miles, and having to drive two
knocked-up horses. I have good hopes of
getting both feed and water to-morrow,
for, if we do not, we shall be in a very
awkward position.
3rd.
Soon after starting, found a little
water in a gully and gave our horses a
drink. Ascended a spur of the range and
had a good view ahead, and was very
pleased with the prospect. Steering
North-East towards a large range about
fifteen miles off, we found a great deal
of spinifex, although the country
generally was thickly wooded. I rode
Mission, who went along pretty well for
about twelve miles, when Williams gave
in again, and Mission soon did the same.
For the next six miles to the range we
had awful work, but managed, with
leading and driving, to reach the range;
spinifex all the way, and also on the
top of it. I was very nearly knocked up
myself, but ascended the range and had a
very extensive view. Far to the north
and east the horizon was as level and
uniform as that of the sea; apparently
spinifex everywhere; no hills or ranges
could be seen for a distance of quite
thirty miles. The prospect was very
cheerless and disheartening. Windich
went on the only horse not knocked up,
in order to find water for the horses. I
followed after his tracks, leading the
two poor done-up horses. With difficulty
I could get them to walk. Over and
through the rough range I managed to
pull them along, and found sufficient
water to give them a good drink, and
camped on a small patch of rough grass
in one of the gorges. Spinifex
everywhere; it is a most fearful
country. We cannot proceed farther in
this direction, and must return and meet
the party, which I hope to do to-morrow
night. We can only crawl along, having
to walk and lead the horses, or at least
drag them. The party have been following
us, only getting a little water from
gullies, and there is very little to
fall back on for over fifty miles. I
will leave what I intend doing until I
meet them. I am nearly knocked up again
to-night; my boots have hurt my feet,
but I am not yet disheartened.
4th.
We travelled back towards the party,
keeping a little to the west of our
outward track; and after going five
miles found some water in clay-holes,
sufficient to last the party about one
night. Two of our horses being knocked
up, I made up my mind to let the party
meet us here, although I scarcely know
what to do when they do arrive. To go
forward looks very unpromising, and to
retreat we have quite seventy miles with
scarcely any water and no feed at all.
The prospect is very cheerless, and what
I shall do depends on the state of the
horses, when they reach here. It is very
discouraging to have to retreat, as Mr.
Gosse's farthest point west is only 200
miles from us. We finished all our
rations this morning, and we have been
hunting for game ever since twelve
o'clock, and managed to get a wurrung
and an opossum, the only living
creatures seen, and which Windich was
fortunate to capture.
LOSS
OF HORSES.
5th
(Sunday). Early this morning Windich and
I went in search of more water. Having
nothing to eat, it did not take us long
to have a little drink of water for our
breakfast. Went a few miles to the
North-West and looked all round, but
only found a small rock water-hole.
Windich got an opossum out of a tree. We
returned about twelve o'clock and then
ate the opossum. At about one o'clock we
saddled up and made back towards the
party, which I thought should have
arrived by this time. When about two
miles we met them coming on; they had
been obliged to leave two horses on the
way, knocked up, one named Fame, about
twenty-four miles away, and Little
Padbury about eight miles back; all the
others were in pretty good trim,
although very hungry and tired. We
returned to the little water, which they
soon finished. I was glad to meet the
party again, although we were in a bad
position. Intend returning to-morrow to
the range left by the party this
morning, where there is enough water for
half a day, and search that range more
thoroughly. The horses will have a good
night's feed and I have every confidence
that, if the worst comes, we shall be
able to retreat to a place of safety.
Found my brother in good spirits. We
soon felt quite happy and viewed the
future hopefully. I was sorry to lose
the horses, but we cannot expect to get
on through such a country without some
giving in. The country is so dry; the
season altogether dry, otherwise we
could go ahead easily. A good shower of
rain is what is required. It has been
very warm the last three days, and I
hope much for a change. Read Divine
Service. Latitude 25 degrees 31 minutes
45 seconds South, longitude about 124
degrees 17 minutes East. Barometer 28.62
at 4 p.m.
6th.
Retreated back to the water left by the
party in the range fourteen miles
South-West. At one mile we gave the
horses as much water as they required
from some rock holes. After reaching the
water and having dinner, Pierre and
myself, and my brother and Windich,
started off on foot to examine the range
for water, but could find only a few
gallons. I think there will be
sufficient water to last us here
to-morrow, and we will give the country
a good searching. If we fail, there must
be a retreat westwards at least seventy
miles. Barometer 28.53; thermometer 64
degrees at 5 p.m.
WATER FOUND.
7th.
Early this morning Pierre and I and my
brother and Windich started off in
search of water, as there was scarcely
any left at camp. Unless we are
fortunate enough to find some, retreat
is inevitable. Pierre and myself
searched the range we were camped in,
while Windich and my brother went
further south towards another range. We
searched all round and over the rough
ranges without success, and reached camp
at one o'clock. To our relief and joy
learnt that my brother and Windich had
found water about five miles
South-South-East, sufficient to last two
or three weeks. This was good news; so
after dinner we packed up and went over
to the water. The feed was not very
good, but I am truly thankful to have
found it, as a retreat of seventy miles
over most wretched country was anything
but cheering. Barometer 28.52;
thermometer 70 degrees at 5 p.m.;
latitude 25 degrees 43 minutes 8 seconds
by Arcturus.
8th.
Rested at camp. Devoted the day to
taking sets of lunar observations. There
is very little feed about this water,
and to-morrow my brother and Pierre go
on a flying trip ahead. It is very warm
to-day, and has been for the last week.
Barometer 28.59; thermometer 79 degrees
at 5 p.m.
9th.
Very cloudy this morning, although the
barometer is rising. My brother and
Pierre started on the flying trip;
intend following on their tracks on
Saturday. Could not take another set of
lunars on account of the cloudy weather.
Was very busy all day repairing
pack-saddles and putting everything in
good order. Did away with one
pack-saddle, and repaired the others
with the wool. Shall leave here with
twelve pack-horses, and three running
loose and two riding, besides the two
that are on flying trip. Barometer 28.59
thermometer 69 degrees at 5 p.m.
10th. Finished repairs and got
everything ready for a good start
to-morrow morning, when we will follow
my brother's and Pierre's tracks. Cloudy
day, but barometer does not fall. Marked
a tree F 59, being our 59th bivouac from
Geraldton. Hung up on the same tree four
pack-bags and one pack-saddle frame.
Barometer 28.56; thermometer 74 degrees
at 5 p.m. Tommy Windich shot a red
kangaroo this afternoon, and also found
a fine rock water-hole about one mile
North-East of camp.
11th. Followed on the tracks of my
brother and Pierre, south seven miles to
a rough broken range--spinifex and rough
grass all the way. Thence we turned
South-East for three miles; then
North-East and East over most wretched
spinifex plains for nine miles, when we
got on to a narrow grassy flat, and,
following it along about four miles,
came to some water in a clay-pan,
sufficient for the night, and camped.
With the exception of this narrow flat
the country passed over to-day is most
miserable and worthless, and very dusty.
Another hot day. Barometer 28.70;
thermometer 67 degrees at 5 p.m.;
latitude 25 degrees 52 minutes 30
seconds South.
12th
(Sunday.). Our horses finished all the
water. We got off early, and, steering
east, followed my brother's and Pierre's
tracks for eight miles, when we reached
a low rise, and a fine rock water-hole
holding over a hundred gallons of water.
While we were watering our horses we
heard gunshots, and soon beheld my
brother and Pierre returning. They had
good news for us, having found some
springs about twenty-five miles to the
eastward. They had seen many natives;
but for an account of their proceedings
I insert a copy of his journal.
Barometer 28.60; thermometer 60 degrees.
We camped for the day. Latitude 25
degrees 53 minutes 23 seconds South.
Read Divine Service.
A.
FORREST'S JOURNAL.
July
10th. Steered east from the rock hole
for the first fifteen miles, over clear
open sand-plains and red sand-hills
covered with spinifex; then
South-South-East for ten miles over
similar country to a rough range; after
going nearly all round it only found
about one gallon of water. As my horse
was very tired, I almost gave up all
hopes of finding any, as it would take
us all our time to get back; however, I
went South-East for seven miles further,
and found about fifty gallons in a rock
hole, but not a blade of grass near it.
As it was nearly dark, and no feed near,
I bore south for a low range about five
miles distant, and found a little feed
but no water, and camped. My horse
completely gave in; I had great
difficulty in getting him to the range.
11th. Again bore west on our return to
meet the party. After going seven miles
we saw a beautiful piece of feeding
country--the first we had seen for the
last 130 miles--and after looking for
water, and our fondest hopes beginning
to fail, we at last followed what seemed
to be the largest gully to its head,
when we were gratified in beholding
abundance of water, with several
springs, and good feed in the flats
below. My horse was completely knocked
up, and I was glad to be able to give
him a rest. After being an hour here,
Pierre, who is always on the look-out,
saw two natives, fully armed and in war
costume, making for us. I was soon on my
legs and made towards them, but as soon
as they saw us they began to move off,
and were soon out of sight in the
thicket. At two o'clock continued on
West-North-West for twelve miles, camped
in a thicket, and, after taking off our
saddles and making a fire, were very
much surprised to find a party of eight
or nine natives going to camp close to
us, and a number more coming down the
hill. As it was just dark we thought it
best to move on a few miles, which we
did after dark. I believe, myself, they
intend attacking us after dark.
A.
FORREST.
13th. Steering straight for the water
found by my brother, about
East-South-East for twenty-five miles,
over most miserable spinifex country,
without a break. Just before we got to
the water Windich shot an emu. We saw
two natives, who made off. Many fires in
every direction. Latitude 26 degrees 5
minutes 10 seconds South, longitude
about 124 degrees 46 minutes East. Fine
water at this place. I have no doubt
water is always here. I named it the
Alexander Spring, after my brother, who
discovered it. Abundance of water also
in rock holes.
14th. Rested at Alexander Spring. Eating
emu was our chief occupation to-day, I
think. Weather cloudy. Barometer 28.75;
thermometer 60 degrees at 5 p.m.
NATIVES' GRAVES.
15th. Rested at Alexander Spring. Went
for a walk to a flat-topped hill about
South-South-East 50 chains from camp,
which I have since named Mount Allott,
and placed a cairn on it; another hill
close by I named Mount Worsnop, after
respectively the Mayor and Town Clerk of
Adelaide. Found two natives' graves
close to camp; they were apparently
about two feet deep, and covered with
boughs and wood; they are the first I
have ever seen in all my travels to the
eastward in Australia, and Windich says
he has never come across one before
either. We also found about a dozen
pieces of wood, some six feet long and
three to seven inches wide, and carved
and trimmed up. All around were stones
put up in the forked trees. I believe it
is the place where the rite of
circumcision is performed. Barometer
28.84; thermometer 60 degrees at 5 p.m.
16th. Left Alexander Spring, in company
with Windich, to look for water ahead.
Steered east for twelve miles, over
spinifex sand-hills with some salt-marsh
flats intervening. We then turned
South-East for seven miles to some
cliffs, and followed them along east
about one mile and a half, when we saw a
clear patch a little to the North-East,
on reaching which we found a fine rock
water-hole holding over 100 gallons of
water. We had a pannican of tea, and
gave our horses an hour and a half's
rest. Left a note for my brother,
advising him to camp here the first
night. We continued on a little to the
south of east for about fifteen miles
over spinifex plains, when we camped on
a small patch of feed. Saw a fire about
three quarters of a mile south of our
camp, and supposed that natives were
camped there.
17th. Early this morning we proceeded to
where we saw the fire last night, but
could not find any natives: it must have
been some spinifex burning. We continued
about east for two miles; found a rock
water-hole holding about fifty gallons,
and had breakfast. After this, continued
on a little south of east for twelve
miles, when we turned more to the north,
searching every spinifex rise that had a
rocky face, first North and then
North-West and West, all over the
country, but not over any great extent,
as my horse (Brick) was knocked up.
About one o'clock we found enough to
give the horses a drink, and to make
some tea for ourselves. We saw some low
cliffs to the north, and proceeding
towards them we saw ahead about
North-North-East a remarkable high
cliff. I therefore decided to make for
it. I had to walk and drive my horse
before me, and before we reached the
cliff we had hard work to get him to
move. When we got close we were rejoiced
to see cliffs and gorges without end,
and descending the first hollow found a
fine rock hole containing at least 250
gallons. We therefore camped, as it was
just sundown. I am very sanguine of
finding more water to-morrow, as our
horses will soon finish this hole. There
was very little feed about the water.
SEARCHING FOR WATER.
18th. This morning we began searching
the ranges for water. First tried
westerly, and searched some fine gullies
and gorges, but without success. My
horse soon gave in again, and I left him
on a patch of feed and continued the
search on foot. I had not walked a
quarter of a mile before I found about
200 gallons in a gully, and, following
down the gully, we found a fine pool in
a sandy bed, enough to last a month. We
were rejoiced at our good fortune, and,
returning to where we left the horse,
camped for the remainder of the day.
There is not much feed anywhere about
these cliffs and gullies, but as long as
there is plenty of water the horses will
do very well. To-morrow I intend going
back to meet the party, as the way we
came was very crooked, and I hope to
save them many miles. It is certainly a
wretched country we have been travelling
through for the last two months, and,
what makes it worse, the season is an
exceptionally dry one; it is quite
summer weather. However, we are now
within 100 miles of Mr. Gosse's farthest
west, and I hope soon to see a change
for the better. We have been most
fortunate in finding water, and I am
indeed very thankful for it.
19th
(Sunday). Started back to meet the
party, leaving old Brick hobbled, and my
saddle, rug, etc., hidden in a tree.
After travelling about twenty miles, met
the party coming all right. Everything
had gone on well during my absence. They
had slept last night at the rock hole,
where we stayed on the 16th, and found
sufficient water for the horses in it.
The note I left had been taken away by
the natives, who were very numerous
about there. Many tracks were seen,
following mine and Windich's for several
miles. The party had not, however, seen
any of them. They were rejoiced to hear
of the water ahead, and we steered for
it, keeping to the west of our return
route to search some cliffs on the way
for water. After travelling nine miles
we camped without water, on a grassy
flat close to some cliffs; most
miserable spinifex country all day; this
is the first grass seen. Walked over
twenty miles to-day myself.
20th. Steered North-East straight for
the water found on the 18th for fourteen
miles; reached it and camped. Found the
horse Brick I left behind, and saddle,
rug, etc., as we left them. Horses were
very thirsty, but there is plenty of
water for them. Feed is rather scarce. I
named this creek and pool after the
Honourable Arthur Blyth, Chief Secretary
of South Australia.
21st. Rested at camp. I took
observations for time, intending to take
several sets of lunars, but the day was
cloudy, and I only managed to get one.
Intend going ahead to-morrow in search
of water.
22nd. Started in company with Pierre to
look for water ahead, steered a little
north of east for about twelve miles to
the points of the cliffs, and ascended a
peak to get a view ahead. The line of
cliff country ran North-East, and to the
east, spinifex undulating country;
nevertheless, as I wished to get a view
of some of the hills shown on Mr.
Gosse's map, I bore East and
East-South-East for over thirty miles,
but could not find a drop of water all
day, and we had come nearly fifty miles.
Camped on a small patch of feed. Very
undulating spinifex country, and no
place that would hold water, even after
rain, for more than a day or two.
23rd. Decided not to go any further,
although I much wished to get a view
further to the east, but our horses
would have enough to do to carry us
back. Steered north for a few miles, and
then North-West for twenty miles, thence
West-South-West to camp, which we
reached after dark, not having had any
water for ourselves or horses since we
left it yesterday morning. The weather
was very warm, and our horses were done
up when they reached camp. On our return
we got a fine view to the North-East,
which looks more promising. My brother
and Windich intend going to-morrow in
that direction in search of water.
24th. My brother and Windich started in
search of water. We rested at camp. Took
lunar observations, but did not get
results which I care much to rely on,
owing to the distances being too great.
25th. Rested at camp. My brother and
Windich did not return, so I have good
hopes that they have found water ahead.
Took several sets of lunars this
evening. Barometer 28.80 at 5 p.m.; warm
weather.
26th
(Sunday). Rested at camp. My brother and
Windich returned late this evening,
having been over sixty miles to the
East-North-East, and having found only
one small rock water-hole with water in
it. Many rock holes had been seen, but
all dry. They had met several natives.
One woman and child they had caught and
talked to. She did not seem frightened,
and ate readily the damper and sugar
given her. The country appears more
parched than it has been, which I had
thought scarcely possible. A range and
flat-topped hill were seen about fifteen
miles to the east of their farthest
point, but they were unable to reach it.
Barometer 28.70; fine.
27th. Rested at Blyth Pool. Intend going
a flying trip to-morrow. Worked out
several lunar observations, and the
position of Blyth Pool is in latitude 26
degrees 1 minute, 50 seconds South,
longitude 125 degrees 27 minutes East.
Barometer 28.72; thermometer 67 degrees
at 5 p.m.
28th. Left camp in company with Windich
to look for water ahead, taking a
pack-horse and ten gallons of water,
besides two small tins for our own use.
Steered North-East nearly along my
brother's tracks for twenty miles, and
reached the water in the rock hole seen
by him, and had dinner. In the afternoon
continued on a little south of east for
about seven miles. Camped without water
for the horses on a small patch of old
feed. The weather is dark and cloudy,
and there is much thunder about. I
expect rain this evening; if it comes it
will be a great boon, and will enable us
to travel on easily.
TODD
RANGE.
29th. Rained lightly during the night;
my rug got wet. Thinking we could get
plenty of water ahead, I left the drums
and water, as the horses would not
drink. We steered about east over
miserable spinifex country, and cut my
brother's return tracks. Passed a rock
hole seen by him, and found only a few
pints of water in it, proving to us that
very little rain had fallen. We sighted
the range and hill seen by my brother,
and reached it at sundown. I have named
it the Todd Range, and the highest hill,
which is table-topped, I have named
Mount Charles, after Mr. C. Todd,
C.M.G., Postmaster-General of South
Australia. No sign of water, and
apparently very little rain has fallen
here last night. Found an old natives'
encampment, and two splendid rock holes
quite dry; if full they would hold 700
or 800 gallons. Was very disappointed at
this, and it being now after dark we
camped without water for the horses,
having travelled over forty miles.
Before we reached the range we had most
miserable spinifex sand-hills. Scarcely
any feed in the range, and spinifex
everywhere. What grass there is must be
over two years old.
30th. Very thick fog this morning. We
bore north for four or five miles, and
then South-East for about five miles,
when we got a fine view to the east, and
could see some hills, which are no doubt
near Mr. Gosse's farthest west. They
bore South-East about eighteen miles
distant. I could not go on to them, as I
was afraid the party would be following
us, on the strength of the little rain
we had the night before last.
Reluctantly, therefore, we turned
westward, and soon after came to an old
native encampment with a rock hole quite
dry, which would hold 1000 gallons if
full. It must be a long while since
there has been rain, or it would not
have been dry. We continued on,
searching up and down and through the
Todd Ranges, finding enough for our
horses from the rain. Late in the
afternoon we found another camping-place
with four rock holes quite empty, which,
if full, would hold 3000 or 4000 gallons
at least. This was very disheartening,
and we felt it very much. It appeared to
us that there was no water in this
country at this season, and we felt it
was useless looking for it. We now
decided to make back towards the party;
but being uncertain that my brother
would not follow, on the strength of the
rain, determined to bear South-West
until we struck our outward tracks.
After going six miles, camped without
water, and nothing but some old coarse
scrub for the horses. One good shower of
rain would enable us to get over this
country easily; but in this season,
without rain, it is quite impossible to
move a number of horses.
A
NATIVE HUSBAND.
31st. Steering about South-East towards
our outward tracks, came across a native
with his wife and two children, the
youngest about two years old. As soon as
they saw us, the man, who had a handful
of spears, began talking at us and then
ran off (the eldest child following
him), leaving his wife and the youngest
child to take care of themselves. The
child was carried on its mother's back,
and hung on without any assistance. Thus
encumbered, the woman could not get
away. She evidently preferred facing any
danger to parting with her child.
Windich spoke to her, and she talked
away quietly, and did not seem much
afraid. We could not understand anything
she said, so allowed her to follow her
husband, who certainly did not come up
to our standard of gallantry. We
continued on until we reached our
outward tracks, and I was much relieved
to find that the party had not gone on.
We found a little water in a small rock
hole, and rested two hours, as our
pack-horse (Little Brown) was knocked
up. We continued on about five miles,
and camped on a patch of feed in a
range, without water. Little Brown was
so knocked up that we had great
difficulty in getting him to walk.
August 1st. Steering westerly for about
eight miles, reached our bivouac of the
28th, and gave our horses the water from
the drums. Continued on, making straight
for camp; stayed two hours to give the
horses a rest, and when within fifteen
miles of camp found a rock hole with
about 100 gallons of water in it. Little
Brown completely gave in, and we were
obliged to leave him. Pushed on and
reached the party a little after dark,
and found all well, having been absent
five days, in which time we had
travelled about 200 miles.
2nd
(Sunday). My brother and Pierre went on
a flying trip to the South-East in
search of water. Kennedy and myself went
and brought Little Brown and
pack-saddle, etc., to camp. Windich shot
an emu; saw about twenty. Thermometer 95
degrees in sun during the day; barometer
28.62 at 5 p.m.
PREPARING FOR A STRUGGLE.
I
now began to be much troubled about our
position, although I did not communicate
my fears to any but my brother. We felt
confident we could return if the worst
came, although we were over 1000 miles
from the settled districts of Western
Australia. The water at our camp was
fast drying up, and would not last more
than a fortnight. The next water was
sixty miles back, and there seemed no
probability of getting eastward. I knew
we were now in the very country that had
driven Mr. Gosse back. I have since
found it did the same for Mr. Giles. No
time was to be lost. I was determined to
make the best use of it if only the
water would last, and to keep on
searching. (Even now, months after the
time, sitting down writing this journal,
I cannot but recall my feelings of
anxiety at this camp.) Just when the
goal of my ambition and my hopes for
years past was almost within reach, it
appeared that I might not even now be
able to grasp it. The thought of having
to return, however, brought every
feeling of energy and determination to
my rescue, and I felt that, with God's
help, I would even now succeed. I gave
instructions to allowance the party, so
that the stores should last at least
four months, and made every preparation
for a last desperate struggle.
3rd.
Rested at camp. My brother and Pierre
did not return this evening, so I
concluded they must have found some
water for their horses. Barometer
falling slowly; getting cloudy towards
evening.
4th.
A light shower of rain this morning.
Rested at camp. My brother and Pierre
returned this evening, having found a
few small rock water-holes, but not
sufficient to shift on. They had been
about fifty miles East-South-East, and
had passed over most miserable spinifex
country the whole way. They had not had
any rain, not even the light shower we
had this morning. They had seen four
natives, but did not get near enough to
talk to them. I intend going with
Windich ahead to-morrow, in the hope
that rain may have fallen last night to
the East-North-East. The weather, which
had looked threatening all day, cleared
off this evening. Barometer 28.56.
THE
BAKER RANGE.
5th.
Thinking that rain might have fallen to
the North-East, I left camp with Windich
to ascertain, instructing my brother to
follow on the 7th; before leaving to
bury some flour and everything that
could be dispensed with, and to carry
all the drums full of water. He has
since informed me that he buried on left
bank of brook, seven yards north of a
small tree with a tin plate nailed on
it, on which is written, DIG 7 yds. N.,
two pack-bags, containing 135 pounds
flour, six leather water-bottles, two
tomahawks, one pick, one water canteen,
one broken telescope, three emu eggs,
some girths and straps, one shoeing
hammer, one pound of candles, and left a
lantern hanging on a tree. A bottle was
also buried, with a letter in it, giving
the latitude and longitude of the camp,
and a brief outline of our former and
future intended movements. We reached
the rock holes about North-East twenty
miles, and were delighted to see them
full, besides plenty on the rocks. This
was very encouraging, and after resting
two hours we pushed on East-North-East,
to a range visited by my brother on his
last flying trip, and which I named the
Baker Range, and the highest point Mount
Samuel, after Sir Samuel Baker, the
great African Explorer, and could see
that lately rain had fallen, although
much more in some places than in others.
Travelled till after dark through and
over spinifex plains, wooded with acacia
and mulga scrub, and camped without
water and only a little scrub for the
horses, having travelled nearly forty
miles.
6th.
Our horses strayed during the night.
After we had found them we proceeded to
the Baker Range and found water in a
gully on some rocks, and the rock holes
seen by my brother and Windich on their
former trip had also a good deal in
them. I was greatly delighted at this;
there must have been a good shower or
two here. Before reaching water Windich
shot a turkey, which we roasted and ate
for breakfast, not having had any tea
last night. We rested here about two
hours. Continuing on East-North-East for
about sixteen miles, came to the four
large rock holes seen by Windich and
myself on our former trip. They were
quite dry, but, as we suspected, there
was a good deal of water in a rocky
gully close by. About two miles before
we reached here we passed a rock hole
full of water, about sixty gallons. I
left a note telling my brother to camp
here on Sunday night, and to follow on
our tracks on Monday. We continued on
about five miles, and camped not far
from Mount Charles, without water for
the horses; but they were not thirsty.
So far we have been most fortunate,
although there is very little to fall
back on should we be unable to proceed;
in fact, as soon as the surface water
dries up it will be impossible. We are,
however, three days in advance of the
party, and if we can get enough for our
two riding-horses we shall be able to
stop them before there is any great
danger, although we may lose some of the
horses.
7th.
Steered South-South-East for about four
miles to two large rock holes seen by
Windich and myself on our former trip,
but found them quite dry, as before.
Continued on South-East towards the
hills seen by us formerly, and, after
travelling about ten miles, got a fine
view of the country, which looked
splendid. High hills and ranges as far
as could be seen to the south and east,
and we thought all our troubles were
over. We pushed on about East-South-East
to a high hill about ten miles off, over
red sand-hills covered with spinifex.
Country of the most miserable
description. We reached the hill, which
I named Mount Harvest, after Colonel
Harvest, the Acting-Governor of Western
Australia at the time of our departure,
and who took a great interest in the
expedition. We ascended the hill; more
ranges and hills were seen--in fact, the
whole country was one mass of hills and
ranges to the south, South-East, and
east. We followed down gullies and over
hills, passing two rock holes dry, until
after dark, but could not find any
water. The country is most beautifully
grassed, and is a great relief after
travelling over so many hundreds of
miles of spinifex; but the season is
very dry, and all the gullies are dry.
We camped for the night without water
for ourselves or horses. I have since
learnt that these ranges were seen by
Mr. Giles, and were named the Warburton
Ranges.
SIGNS OF WHITE MEN.
8th.
Early this morning Windich and I went on
foot to search the hills and gullies
close around, as our horses were knocked
up for want of water. We returned
unsuccessful about 8 o'clock. Close to
where we found our horses we found a
tree with the bark cut off one side of
it with an AXE which was sharp. We were
sure it was done by a white man, as the
axe, even if possessed by a native
(which is very improbable), would be
blunt. We are now in the country
traversed by Mr. Gosse, although I am
unable to distinguish any of the
features of the country, not having a
map with me, and not knowing the
latitude. Should we find water, and the
party reach here, there will no doubt be
little difficulty in distinguishing the
hills. The country certainly does not
answer the description given of his
farther westward. However, I will leave
our position geographically for the
present, and treat of what is of much
more importance to us, namely, the
finding of water. We saddled our horses
and continued our search about
South-East, over hills and along
valleys--the distance or direction I am
unable to give--our horses scarcely
moving, and ourselves parched with
thirst. The sun was very hot. At about
noon we found some water in a gully by
scratching a hole, but it was quite
salt. As our horses would not drink it,
it can be imagined how salt it was. We
drank about a pint of it, and Windich
said it was the first time he ever had
to drink salt water. I washed myself in
it, which refreshed me a little. Our
horses could not go much further without
water, but we crawled along about north,
and shortly afterwards found a small
rock hole in the side of a large rough
granite hill, with about five gallons of
good water in it. We had a good drink
ourselves, put half a gallon into a
canteen, and gave the rest to the
horses. From here our usual good fortune
returned. We had not gone far when
Windich called me back and said he had
found horses' tracks, and sure enough
there were the tracks of horses coming
from the westward. Windich took some of
the old dung with him to convince our
companions that we had seen them. We
followed westward along the tracks for
half a mile, when we found two or three
small rock holes with water in them,
which our horses drank. Still bearing to
the north we kept finding little drops
in the granite rocks--our old friend the
granite rock has returned to us again,
after having been absent for several
hundred miles. We satisfied our horses,
and rested a short time to have
something to eat, not having had
anything for forty-eight hours. We bore
North-West, and soon afterwards found a
fine rock hole of water in granite
rocks, sufficient to last the party a
day. Plenty of water on rocks, also,
from recent rain here. We were rejoiced,
as we now had a place to bring the party
to. But our good fortune did not end
here: continuing on westerly or a little
north of it, we came on a summer
encampment of the natives, and found a
native well or spring, which I believe
would give water if dug out. This may
make a good depot if we require to stay
long in this neighbourhood. We were
overjoyed; and I need not add I was very
thankful for this good fortune. When
everything looked at its worst, then all
seemed to change for our benefit. We
camped two miles from the water.
9th
(Sunday). Took the horses back to the
water, and on our way there found a
clay-pan with a few hundred gallons of
water in it. Started back to meet the
party, intending to await their arrival
at the first range we came to on our
outward track. Steering a little north
of west for fourteen miles, we camped on
west side of Mount Harvest, not having
seen a drop of water on our way. Luckily
we brought nearly half a gallon with us,
so shall be able to manage until the
party overtake us to-morrow. Our horses
will be very thirsty, but I will give
them five gallons each out of the drums.
Shot a wurrung on our way, which we had
for dinner. Found two fine rock holes
quite empty. There appears to have been
no rain here, although fifteen miles
east there has been a good deal. I hope
the change of moon on the 11th will
bring us some rain, as we shall then be
able to travel along easily. My personal
appearance contrasts most strikingly
with town life--very dirty, and I may
say ragged. I scarcely think my friends
would know me. Washing, or brushing
one's hair is out of the question,
unless when resting at camp.
10th. We stayed at our last night's
bivouac until 12 o'clock, when we
saddled up and followed back along our
outward tracks to meet the party, which
we expected to find this afternoon.
About 3 o'clock met them coming on, all
well. They were all rejoiced to hear of
the water ahead. We gave the horses
water out of the drums, and turned
eastward with them. We reached Mount
Harvest by sundown, the party having
travelled thirty miles, and camped on
grassy flat without water for the
horses. Latitude 25 degrees 55 minutes
43 seconds South by Altair, longitude
126 degrees 32 minutes East. Everything
had gone on first-rate with the party.
They had nearly finished all the water
at Mount Samuel, and in the Todd Range,
so that we cannot now turn back, even if
we wished, unless with the risk of
having to go ninety or a hundred miles
without water.
FINDING TRACKS.
11th. Continued on to the water found
ahead, and on our way saw some
clay-holes with water and satisfied the
horses. When near the spring, saw
natives' tracks, and shortly afterwards
a fire with a whole kangaroo roasting in
it. The natives had made off when they
saw us, leaving their game cooking.
Continuing on, and passing the native
well, we reached the granite rocks, two
miles from the spring, and camped. While
having dinner we saw two natives about a
quarter of a mile from us, watching us;
we beckoned to them, and Windich and I
approached them. As we neared them they
began talking and moving off slowly; we
could not get close to them, although
they did not appear to be afraid of us.
Some fine ranges are visible from here
South-East. Latitude of camp 25 degrees
54 minutes 53 seconds South, by meridian
altitude of Altair. Marked a tree F 70,
being the 70th camp from Geraldton.
Barometer 28.26 at 5 p.m. We are not in
the latitude of Mr. Gosse's track by
fifteen miles, yet there are tracks only
about two miles south of us! I cannot
account for this. The tracks may be Mr.
Giles's, as I cannot think Mr. Gosse
could be out in his latitude.
12th. Left camp with Tommy Windich to
find water ahead, instructing my brother
to follow on to-morrow. We bore
East-South-East for a few miles over
grassy flats towards some high hills,
but, seeing what we supposed a good spot
for water, we turned east towards it,
over miserable spinifex sand-hills, and
found some splendid granite rocks and
holes, but not much water--enough,
however, to give the horses a drink. If
there was rain, there would be enough
water here for a month or more. Near
these rocks found a tree resembling the
figtree (Ficus Platypoda), with ripe
fruit about the size of a bullet, which
tasted very much like a fig. I ate some
of the fruit, which was very good. Fine
hills and ranges to the eastward, and
country very promising, and in many
places beautifully grassed. After
resting two hours we pushed on about
east, and, after going five miles over
spinifex sand-hills, came to a granite
range and found two fine rock holes,
sufficient to satisfy the horses.
Continuing on, we camped close to a
peaked granite hill, which I named Mount
Elvire. No water for the horses. Found
the old horse-tracks, just before we
camped, coming from eastward. I cannot
make them out to be Mr. Gosse's; they
must be Mr. Giles's. There appears to be
a great number of horses', but am
uncertain if there are any camel-tracks.
IN
SAFETY.
13th. Found a rock hole with about forty
gallons of water in it close to camp.
After watering our horses we followed
along the old tracks, going nearly
North-East, and passed a gnow's nest,
where they had apparently got out eggs.
Shortly afterwards found where the party
had camped without water, and continued
on to some high hills and ranges; then
we left them to follow some emu tracks,
which, after following up a gully and
over a hill, brought us to a fine spring
of good water in a gully. We camped
here, and intend waiting for our party,
which will reach here to-morrow. We
watched at the water for emus, and after
waiting about four hours saw two coming,
one of which Windich shot. Fine grass,
although old and dry, down this gully.
Ranges in every direction. The country
contrasts strikingly with what we have
been travelling through for the last
three months. The party whose tracks we
followed this morning have not been to
this spring, so they must have missed
it. All my troubles were now over,
inasmuch as I felt sure we would
accomplish our journey and reach the
settled districts of South Australia;
although, as it afterwards proved, we
had many days of hard work and some
privation yet to endure. Still the
country was much improved, and not
altogether unknown. I then gave out
publicly to the party that we were now
in safety, and in all human probability
in five or six weeks would reach the
telegraph line. I need not add how
pleased all were at having at last
bridged over that awful, desolate
spinifex desert.
14th. Went to a hill close to camp, the
highest in this neighbourhood, and
erected a pile of stones. About 1
o'clock the party arrived all safe. They
reported having seen three natives the
day we left, and had induced them to
come to camp, and had given them damper
and sugar and a red handkerchief each;
they did not remain long. Each had two
spears, very long and thick, and made
out of three pieces spliced together,
with large barbs on them. The party had
finished all the water on their way, the
horses yesterday having drank over ten
gallons each. This afternoon I took a
round of angles and bearings from a pile
of stones on the hill. Marked a tree F
72, near spring, which I named Barlee
Spring, after the Honourable F.P.
Barlee, Colonial Secretary of Western
Australia, from whom I have ever
received much kindness and assistance,
and who took a great interest in this
expedition. A remarkable hill bore
South-South-West from spring, which I
named Mount Palgrave. Barlee Spring is
in longitude about 127 degrees 22
minutes East. Unable to get latitude:
too cloudy.
15th. Left camp with Windich to look for
water ahead, instructing my brother to
follow to-morrow. Steered East along the
South side of a rocky range for ten
miles, when we ascended a hill to get a
view ahead. About thirty miles to east
fine bold ranges are visible, also
broken ranges from North-East and round
to South-East; they are no doubt the
Cavanagh Ranges of Mr. Gosse. About five
miles ahead we saw some granite rocks,
to which we proceeded, and found a
tremendous rock hole full of water; it
was in between two large rocks and
completely shaded from the sun. As the
country east to the ranges appears to be
all spinifex and red sand-hills, I
decided to remain here to-night and
continue on in the morning. Left a note
telling my brother to camp here on
Sunday night. In the afternoon got a
fine round of angles from granite rocks.
The country passed over to-day was along
and through ranges which are no doubt
the Barrow Ranges of Mr. Gosse. The
flats are very grassy, but the hills are
covered with spinifex. My brother marked
a tree at this camp F 73, and observed
the latitude to be about 26 degrees 4
minutes, but was unable to get very good
observation on account of clouds. The
Ficus Platypoda was also found here,
loaded with ripe fruit.
GILES'S CAMP.
16th
(Sunday). Steering about East-North-East
towards the ranges, we passed over very
miserable spinifex plains and red
sand-hills the whole way, about thirty
miles. After reaching the ranges we
followed up a fine grassy wide flat,
splendidly grassed, although old; and on
the flat were innumerable
horse-tracks--unmistakable evidence of
horses being camped for months in this
neighbourhood. Kept on up the gully and
flat for about a mile and a half, when
Windich found a gum-tree marked E. GILES
OCT. 7, 73. My former suspicions that
Mr. Giles must have been in this
neighbourhood were now confirmed. Soon
after we came on a cart-track, which
rather astonished us, and soon found
that it must have belonged to Mr. Gosse,
who also camped close here. A deep,
well-beaten track went along up the
gully, which we followed, knowing it was
the daily track of the horses to the
water, and soon after found their old
camp at a beautiful spring running down
the gully a quarter of a mile. A
stock-yard had been built, and gardens
made, besides a large bush hut to
shelter the party from the sun as well
as rain. Trenches were dug round the hut
and tent, so that they must have had
rain. I should say Mr. Giles must have
been camped here for two or three months
at least. We camped half a mile down the
gully from the spring. Mr. Gosse and Mr.
Giles were within a few miles of each
other at the same time, and did not
meet.
17th. Went for a walk to examine the
cart-tracks; found two tracks going east
and west. This convinced me that the
cart belonged to Mr. Gosse, who I knew
had returned. Went to the top of a high
hill to take angles, while Windich tried
to shoot a kangaroo. After a hard climb
I reached the summit, and had just
commenced taking angles when I heard
three shots, and shortly after Windich
cooeying. Looking round, I saw a native
running along about 300 yards from me.
He disappeared in a hollow. Fearing that
Windich had been attacked by the natives
I descended towards him as quickly as
possible, but could not see him. I
looked about, keeping a sharp look-out,
expecting to be attacked, but could not
find Windich. Sat down a short time and
finally made my way back to the horses,
and, after finding them, saddled one and
started back to look for Windich. Found
him coming along with a kangaroo on his
back, having shot three, but had not
seen any natives; he had been waiting
for me a good while. After dinner I went
back to get my coat and a compass left
at the foot of the hill, and then again
ascended the hill and got a fine round
of angles. The rock is very magnetic,
and the compass is quite useless. Could
see the dust from the party coming
across the spinifex sand-hills, and,
descending, met them just before
sundown.
ANOTHER ENCOUNTER WITH NATIVES.
They
reported having had an encounter with
the natives on the 16th, and having been
followed by a number of armed natives
for a long way. Finally they had been
compelled to fire on them, but had not
killed any. They were glad to hear of
the spring found, and, continuing on,
reached it about half-past 6 o'clock.
The spring is Fort Mueller of Mr. Giles,
where he was camped for a long while,
and his most westerly permanent water.
By observation Fort Mueller is in
latitude 26 degrees 11 minutes 30
seconds South, and longitude by lunar
observation 128 degrees East, the
variation being about 1 degree 25
minutes East by azimuths.
18th. Rested at spring. Marked a tree
sixty yards south of camp F 74, being
74th camp from Geraldton. Also erected a
pile of stones on peak, thirty chains
West-South-West of camp, with a pole in
centre, on which is marked:
J.
FORREST, AUGUST 17, '74.
Took
four sets of lunars, which place spring
in longitude 128 degrees East of
Greenwich.
19th. Steering East-South-East al
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